valley996

Is there a way to see if each fuel injector is operating correctly?

Loren,

Thank you for the information, that is a big help.

I bought a Durametric for my 1999 996 C2. The problem I have is understanding what the actual values are? Where do I look to see what is "normal" after I check my actual values. I can't find anything on the Durametric cd or website. So far it's a bunch of numbers with no meaning. Any help?

Here are the DME set points for your car.

Howard

Howard

Thank you, that is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate it.

I bought a Durametric for my 1999 996 C2. The problem I have is understanding what the actual values are? Where do I look to see what is "normal" after I check my actual values. I can't find anything on the Durametric cd or website. So far it's a bunch of numbers with no meaning. Any help?

What determines when the torque converter locks and unlocks? When does it lock or unlock?

Anyone have a tiptronic ATF filling hose that is needed for 2002 & newer Mercedes tips that they would sell or rent?

A vendor that has one in stock would also be a great help- I have tried Pelican, Sunset, Suncoast, Brumos, Orlando, & ATL warehouse.

Other solutions are welcomed at this point.

Thanks- John

Check the following link. I made my own filling tank and hose from the instructions in the DIY tutorials. It cost me about $20 and worked great. Hope this helps.

I agree that this sounds like a torque converter problem. When they are failing, the transmission will still make its shift, but the torque converter will make your RPMs wander up and down causing the car surge under normal acceleration.

What is strange is that it does the surging while just cruising, not when the car is in need of a shift. I can go to manuel tiptronic and force it to stay in a gear at that rpm and it still surges. Would this still possibly be the torque converter? It also does it in all the gears as long as it is that particular rpm range. It does get worse as it is pulling a hill.

Hey Guys.

Purchased my 1998 (Rest of World) Carrera 996 yesterday (1999 model in the states), C2, Burgundy, 6 Speed, 50K Km (about 35k Miles), full leather interior in Camel color.

What a great day. Had meetings all morning long followed by a great long lunch with dad.... talked for 3 hours, Great food and wine (....we decided we have to resume playing golf on weekends together sometime soon, after I told him how I miss seeing him since I had the triplets!!!.) Then back to the office for 45 minutes to sign papers, close up before the weekend and off to meet my seller.

Papers, Check... Insurance, Check... Keys and other deliverables...check. Baby slept alone in the garage, although I thought about going down to check on her a few times overnight. (I checked on my triplets instead.)

I spent today with my wife driving around town, seeing how it feels and getting used to the feel of a new (For me of course) Porsche 911. She loved it, except for the getting in and out of the car when wearing heels. I am going to the car races tomorrow, driving about an hour and a half to the track. Ill let you guys know how it feels on the highway.

Will be posting some Pics sometime soon. Cant tell you how nice it feels to stomp the gas and feel the seat pressing on my back.

cheers,

Hermann.

Hope yours is more dependable than mine! Start a Porsche savings/maintenance account!

Did you find out any more about this? I have a similar surge around 2700RPM that I'm trying to determine is the Tiptronic, Variocam or something else.

I can't find an answer at all. I have about 20 different opinions so far. I bought the Durametric and it is nice, but there is nothing to tell you what the readings and values should normally be. What is normal voltage? What is the correct reading for the O2 sensors? What is the correct timing? I can't find anything from Durametric to help out on this. It's like having a brand new book written in Chinese and I can't read Chinese! I have had everything suggested (and I appreciate them all) from torque converter, spark plugs (replaced), MAF (cleaned and checked), TPS (replaced), fuel filter change (may have helped some), serviced the transmission ( may have helped some), checked for vacuum leaks (none found). I am afraid to go ahead and replace the torque converter, because that is going to cost me at least $2,000. This was my dream car and I was so excited to have a Porsche and I have yet to enjoy it. I am thinking I have made a mistake at this point. So far I have spent around $1500 and no fix!

Anymore ideas out there. I can't even sell it at this point!

My mechanic suggested my 996 surging problem is the car running too lean. He said it is commonly referred to as a "lean surge". He said this is a problem with BMW and Mercedes as well. Has anyone heard of this?

Loren,

Alright, I got my car back from the mechanic today. He changed the plugs and it 'may" have helped a little. He says what is causing my problem is the car is running too lean. He says most likely it is the coolant temperature sensor. He says the sensor is too sensitive and he can adjust the sensor by changing the resister in it. He said he has fixed this same problem on BMW, Mercedes and Porsche. He says the problem gets worse as the car gets warmer. I have not paid attention to this enough to know. He added Techroline to the gas to clean carbon out. He also said the combustion chamber can get allot of carbon build-up in it thus causing the car to run lean. I did clean the throttle body and there was no change. Does this sound like anything you have heard before? Also, will my Durametric tell me anything about this?

Thanks

Loren,

Will you look over the Durametric readings and see if anything looks bad. Do the O2 sensor voltage look right?

Thanks

996.txt

Okay, I did my final flush of the transmission, changed the oil and replaced the fuel filter. I drove the car afterwards and the surge is still there but it is only half as bad as it was. There were numerous bubbles in the fuel that came out of the filter. I assume that was water. I am still lost on the total solution. I do have to replace my motor mounts, the right spilled out the fluid yesterday while I had it up.

Loren,

I will post my values today, so if you don't mind looking them over, I'd really appreciate that.

On Durametric I think the category is called "Actual Values".

Choose from the list what you want to monitor (both throttle and Tiptronic).

Thank you. I'll check it.

Loren,

I got my Durametric today. I hooked it up and had no codes. Can you give me an idea how to capture the reading that you suggested.

Thanks

Is there an option for both of these on the Durametric?

1. Check the throttle potentiometer using Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS tester.

2. Likewise check the operation of the VarioCam actuation.

Loren,

I got my Durametric today. I hooked it up and had no codes. Can you give me an idea how to capture the reading that you suggested.

Thanks

1. Check the throttle potentiometer using Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS tester.

2. Likewise check the operation of the VarioCam actuation.

VarioCam

To increase the torque and to improve cylinder charging, the engine has two VarioCam actuators which are installed in the chain tensioners of the camshafts. The two actuators are operated by electromagnetic valves activated by the DME control unit.

Functioning

When the ignition is switched on, the electromagnetic valves of the camshaft adjusters are supplied with positive potential. If the engine is started, the control unit applies ground to terminal 25 (camshaft adjuster for cylinder line 4 - 6) and to terminal 52 (camshaft adjuster for cylinder line 1 - 3) if the following conditions are fulfilled (VarioCam activated);

1 - Engine oil temperature between -3°C and 133°C

2 - Engine speed > 1,300 rpm

3 - Throttle opening > 5%

-or-

1 - Engine oil temperature > 133°C

2 - Engine speed > 1,480 rpm

3 - Throttle opening > 3.9%

The ground potential is deactivated by the DME control unit (VarioCam deactivated) if:

Engine speed > 5,120 rpm

Your Car is doing exactly what mine was doing. Its the Torque Converter!

I went mad trying to work it out. The Porsche Mechanic was stumped trying to work it out.

We pressure tested the engine and fixed leaks, but the problem remained.

Did all the code tests but not faults came up.

Had the transmission removed and tested - All good.

Like your car, putting my foot down and driving hard - the car would feel fine. It changes gears well. Its just cruising that was the issue.

Ended up replacing the torque converter and the problem was solved.

My car was at the mechanic for 6 weeks. Very frustrating!

I know, the more people I talk to, the more say it is a torque converter. I was just in hopes that it would be a little cheaper fix. Does anyone know if it is the torque converter, does the transmission usually stay in decent condition? Can I mostly likely get by with a torque converter only or do I need the rebuilt tranny with it.

I am not convinced it is a Tip problem...

Do you think I should replace the throttle position sensor? Also, I will have some numbers from the Durametric this week. Again, thank you.

I should say the car appears and feels like it is shifting okay. I would note that when I pull out fast and floor the gas it shifts smoothly and there is no missing or rpm fluctuations. It's only if I am cruising in that rpm range (1500-2500) or especially when pulling a grade. Also, if I am in the manual tiptronic mode it does it in all the gears in the same rpm range.

1. Check the throttle potentiometer using Durametric, PST2, or PIWIS tester.

2. Likewise check the operation of the VarioCam actuation.

VarioCam

To increase the torque and to improve cylinder charging, the engine has two VarioCam actuators which are installed in the chain tensioners of the camshafts. The two actuators are operated by electromagnetic valves activated by the DME control unit.

Functioning

When the ignition is switched on, the electromagnetic valves of the camshaft adjusters are supplied with positive potential. If the engine is started, the control unit applies ground to terminal 25 (camshaft adjuster for cylinder line 4 - 6) and to terminal 52 (camshaft adjuster for cylinder line 1 - 3) if the following conditions are fulfilled (VarioCam activated);

1 - Engine oil temperature between -3°C and 133°C

2 - Engine speed > 1,300 rpm

3 - Throttle opening > 5%

-or-

1 - Engine oil temperature > 133°C

2 - Engine speed > 1,480 rpm

3 - Throttle opening > 3.9%

The ground potential is deactivated by the DME control unit (VarioCam deactivated) if:

Engine speed > 5,120 rpm

I'll do that. I ordered a Durametric yesterday. It will be here Wednesday. I really do appreciate the help. Based on your experience does it sound like it could possibly be the torque converter? I am hoping it is not, because that is an expensive fix!

1. Yes, but it should move freely. Usually they get sticky.

Loren,

I cleaned it and it moves better, but not what is causing my problem. Any more thoughts or suggestions I can work on?

I am asking for help again. I am thinking this may not be a transmission issue. What is happening is the car rpm's are jumping up and down as if I am pressing the gas pedal and letting off, but it is doing it on it's own. I does get worse on a grade. It does it while crusing between 1500 and 2500 rpms, when the car has no need to shift, which leads me to believe it may not be a transmission issue as was though early on. I can use the manual mode of the tiptronic in all gears and it does it in that range. Note: If the car is in Park, there is no problem in that same range when I rev the engine, it's only when moving. Also, as a reminder I have no codes with the PIWIS or Durametric tester.

What I have done so far with no changes:

1. Cleaned the TCV ( very dirty, also looking inside of it the flap that opens and closes is not fully opened or closed. Is

this normal?)

2. Unplugged the MAF and drove, no changes

3. Cleaned the throttle body.

I am sorry for being a pest, but this is driving me crazy. Thanks

Please disregard. I found the topic in the tutorials. Very good instructions.

I have a rattle inside my 1999 996 drivers door. The window also squeaks when going up and down. I am concerned about removing the door panel because of the airbag. Does anyone know how to do this safely?

Thanks

Loren or anyone who may be familiar,

Can I ask you to watch this video of an Audi A4 with the EXACT same problem as mine? Especially at 1:08 into the video. I just don't want to replace a transmission if I don't need to, and It may turn out to not be a transmission at all. I appreciate any help or suggestions at this point. I just don't want to sink a fortune in a rebuilt transmission and not need it.

Thank you