Porsche Pilot

Thanks for the help!

Becker CDR 220

4462

Ser: X5036858

Thread resurrection time. 1999 C2. I had a bad brake booster. Dealer wanted $1800.00 to fix so I came across this thread.

I ordered the booster and have installed it. I have bled the system thoroughly. Now, my brake lights are stuck on and the pedal has a too much travel.

I just don't know if I am adjusting the push rod correctly. Should I move it closer to the booster or the firewall? It is super frustrating!

It's not too terribly difficult to fix. I did mine in a day, taking my time with many breaks. Only cost was foam and duct tape.

^^^^ Perfect! Just what I was looking for. Thank you sir!

That's my issue Joe. I wanted to use the plug thing but if I remove the seat belt receptacle and transfer it to a race seat, I will have nothing to plug it into since the harness guts are attached to the stock seat.

Gents, can a Durametric or the dealer version disable a seat belt chime? The reason I ask is, I plan on installing race seats but will attach the stock three point belt receptacle on the seat. Since it is wired to the under seat harness I have no idea how to make that whole connection.

This is where the foam is coming from. This flap should be covered in foam but it deteriorates over time. It's located inside the heater core.

Weight savings are my guess.

It's not an overly complicated procedure, just a bit fiddly. If you decide to perform the DIY I can talk you through any issues. The whole thing took me about 5 hours with a few beer breaks in between. The hardest part was getting under the dash as I had to contort myself in ways only a skilled Russian gymnast can.

It is inside the heater core which is accessed under the cowl.

This is how the door looked when I took it out.

I just did this a few weeks ago. I used the widest window weatherstripping I could find at Lowes. It's a one side adhesive foam. I wrapped it all around the the door, wrapping around the edges. I then covered the whole thing in duct tape. Kind of a redneck fix but it works great. I had zero foam left on the door/flap. A/C is nice and cold now.

Here is the DIY link: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/121-fixed-my-lack-of-heat-problem-here-is-the-procedure/

Art, I will pull the receipt tomorrow to see if there is a part number for the bushing. The part was fairly inexpensive but labor was the gotcha....dealer prices of course.

Nobody was more surprised than the shop foreman. He's never seen it either!

Quick update on the sticky brake pedal. My master cylinder and booster were fine. The sticking was caused by worn bushings in the pedal assembly.

I hope this helps others in the future. Thanks to everyone for the advice.

Thanks guys. I will have the tech look at the booster next time I am in.

Let me add just a tad more info. When the car is off, I can fiddle with the brake pedal and feel and hear that it is binding. When pressure is in the sytem, the brakes definitely do drag unless I pull up on the pedal. My non mechanical theory would point to a pedal issue if the system is not active, ie the engine is off. Then again, I really have no freaking idea.

I have posted on Rennlist about my brake pedal sticking on my 99 996 but there havent been any takers.

The symptoms are that the pedal will occasionally stick "on". I need to pull up on the pedal with my toe to free it. It's not severely sticking but sticking nonetheless.

My first thought, based on my highly scientific Google research, was that my master cylinder or some part in the fluid system was bad. All is well in that department and several bleedings by the dealer did not show any concerns with the booster, etc.

So, I got under the dash and have been playing with the pedal. It definitely feels like something is amiss with the pedal assembly itself.

I believe there is a spring there? I didn't see it in the PET. Could a worn spring or bushing cause this thing to stick?

I really hate to have my dealer dig into this too deep as my wallet and fragile nerves can't handle it.

The thought of changing it is still in my head. I will let ya know first.

^^^ That's my car! Thanks for the props Lo!

+1 for the 3M kit. Very user friendly and yes, definitely keep up with sealant application as stated above. I would reapply it monthly. The failure point in the DIY kits is the sealant. Once you abrade off the factory UV coating they will yellow and haze over much faster.

A lot of higher end detailers like myself do offer the lens surface reconditioning. Most of us will sand the old coating off, polish and then apply actual clear coat or a specific coating available to us. Do not get suckered in to a "pro" offering the service without knowing their process. Some will use the over the counter kit and charge big bucks. 3 months later your lights look like *** again.

The UV coating is starting to fail. Very common issue. Best fix is to wet sand then reapply a clear coat product. You can try one of the over the counter polishing kits since yours aren't too bad yet. But, it will not get better without intervention.

Just a quick clarification. A male stem, with teeth, is attached to the cover disc. Odds are, that stem is still in the car. The disc typically breaks off from the stem. Remove the male stem from the female one in the washer assembly the push on the new one.

Your new part will be the silver disc with the male stem with teeth already attached. Hope that makes sense. Don't settle for the dealer saying they can't get the part. Suncoast can.

Suncoast Porsche does sell that part separately. I bought two last year. There is a stem attached that fits into the nozzle on the headlight. Other dealers told me I had to buy the entire assembly for over 200 bucks per side. Suncoast took care of for 40 bucks a piece. Just explain to them that you just need the trim piece.

Easy install. I had my wife activate the washer. The nozzle will shoot out and you have to grab it to hold it out long enough to slide the new trim cap with stem on.

On my 2000 996, there was one wire, brown I think, that had to be attached to the frame of the stereo. When I did my swap out to an aftermarket unit I didn't ground that brown wire initially and got the horn honk when locking. Maybe something with alarm module immobilizing the car? I would double check all the wiring.