wyovino

I've found the torque spec for the bottom bolt at 63 ft/lbs but have not seen any reference to the top bolts.

If it was binding, it was positioned wrong. I had to fiddle with mine when I removed and reinstalled my center console.  There is a longer plastic piece that moves forward and back when you move the shifter. My guess is that this puts upward pressure on that piece so it stays in the proper channel.  That longer plastic piece is attached to the underside of part #30 in the diagram.

I would start by checking the hydraulic fluid level.

I've dealt with Sunset on several occasions and have had zero issues. I suggest contacting them directly. Also confirm that the transaction went through on your end.

Interesting. I'm glad I saw this. I was under the impression that they should be chanced every 60k miles on my MY2000 C2.  Just curious, why would there be different schedules for different years?

I haven't but I definitely will try that the next time.  Thanks!

I'm not ready to do this again yet, but I was wondering if it would be a good idea to replace the problematic bolt (upper right) with a Torx or hex bolt.  The problem as I remember it was that there wasn't enough room between the bolt and the engine to get a socket on it and I had to use very small turns with an open end wrench.   That would make swapping out the waterpump much easier going forward.

Can you post a link to the DIY with the fourth stalk?  The original link above is no longer valid.

I might reconsider it. The problem is that most DIY's on the subject assume some level of familiarity with the components and I have none. So if the instruction says to remove a specific part but doesn't point it out or explicitly describe the process, I'd be lost.  I guess once I have the new parts in hand the replacement process will make more sense to me. I'll keep checking out videos and DIY's.  Thanks.

@dporto - Is there something that I can try to loosen as a test to see what kind of adventure I'd be in for? Ideally something that I could get to without removing other parts first. I haven't had any trouble with corrosion/freezing on the other repairs I've done.

Also, who has a good set of instructions?  I checked out a few youtube videos but they don't really show much. The guy says what he did but doesn't show it.

Never mind. I found Loren's instructions and this looks to be outside of my comfort zone.

I'm guessing that my 2000 996 Cab is ready for a suspension refresh. It has 65k miles and while I'm not noticing any problems, I figure it must be time to replace at least some of the components. I don't know much about suspensions and I'm not a mechanic, but I have basic maintenance skills. Besides oil changes and brake fluid flushes, I've replaced the water pump, thermostat, and serpentine belt. I've done a complete brake job with pads and rotors. I've replaced the spark plugs and tubes and fixed various issues with the doors and locks. I have a decent amount of tools and have a floor jack and four jack stands.

Can someone tell me what is likely in need of replacement and if this is within the capability of the casual driveway mechanic?  I'll probably replace the engine mounts as that looks fairly easy.

On 12/27/2017 at 8:36 PM, fpb111 said:

Porsche keys have 4 components, outer shell, transponder pill to talk to the immobilizer, circuit board that transmits signals to lock/unlock the car, and blade to unlock the ign switch and steering wheel lock. The pill and circuit board must be introduced to the car in order to work.

If you just transfer the pill and the blade you will have a  key that has no remote. You must also transfer the board, which in your case is probably bad.  If that key head comes with a board you will have to have the dealer program it into the car. 

Unfortunately I saw this reply after I ordered the new key fob. Bummer.

I received my new remote key fob today. I transferred the transponder pill and the key blade to the new fob. I tried all of the resetting procedures I've found online and the remote still doesn't work.  It looks like that's $170 down the drain, unless someone has other suggestions.

Amazing - $13 shipping.

Hi Loren,

https://www.suncoastparts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=P&Product_Code=996RECONTROL

It says:

SPECIAL NOTE: Requires programming by a Porsche dealership to start your car and operate remote functions.

Can I avoid the dealer programming if I transfer the pill?

The description for the Porsche Design key says that you also need to transfer your old circuit board. Unfortunately, that's likely the culprit. The fix below may help. I haven't tried it yet but it's on my list, as neither of my key remotes are currently working.

I would suspect that the dimmer can't handle the low wattage of the LED bulbs. I know this may be apples and oranges, but I just went through some weird issues when I replaced incandescent bulbs with LEDs in my home. Replacing one of the LEDs bulb with an incandescent bulb fixed the issue in my case. It's a well discussed topic in lighting forums.

Just for reference. I had my 2000 C2 Tip Cab serviced with the LNE Double-row ceramic bearing about 5 years ago by my local independent Porsche professional ( a top-notch, well-respected shop). They installed an LNE low temp thermostat and X-51 baffled oil pan at the same time. The bill was $3200 including tax.

I think that was probably toward the high-end, but with a Tiptronic I don't think you will find it for a lot less.

With a 2001, you could have a single-row or double-row IMSB.

What everyone said above plus you should be using 93 octane.

Did the issue pop up after the ignition switch was changed?  If so, I would look at that first. I've read that there are basically two types - the $15 part and the $30 (Audi) part. Many have said that the cheaper one is no good.   An another item that can cause weird electrical issues is the headlight switch.

The price of the part has gone up significantly. Autohausaz has it for about $250.  I never came back to this thread afterwards, but I followed the DIY  that I listed above and it wasn't too difficult.  Good luck.

Interesting.  I replaced my battery last year and was surprised that I didn't have to reset anything.  Not even the radio.  I wonder if there is a small amount of reserved storage in the system somewhere.  When I disconnected the battery to replace my door lock mechanism, I think I did have to reset the radio but nothing else.  The battery was disconnected for a much longer time.

I'm not sure if this applies to a coupe as I have a cab,  but check to see if the bolts holding the sun visors are tight. I had a rattle and that was the culprit.

I'm glad it worked out for you and thanks for providing the update.

Every month or so I re-read the DIY and about halfway through it realize that this is way beyond my comfort level.  I'm impressed when someone reports that they've done it.