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Q-Ship986
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Posts posted by Q-Ship986
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If the vehicle is not inordinately pulling to one side, an off-center steering wheel is a symptom of front toe mis-alignment. Regardless of your mileage, I would have it checked/corrected to avoid irregular tire wear and fix your steering wheel complaint. --Brian
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Orders from Porsche dealers tend to take priority with Tire Rack. However, it is worth calling Tire Rack directly on your own if you have a preferred installer, regardless of the inventory shown on their website. Have your VIN handy; they generally want to know the tires are being allocated to the "right" vehicles. --Brian
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I'm not re-reading this whole thread again to check, but has anyone mentioned the phrase "matching numbers."
I intend to keep my Box long enuf for that to be important. If I live long enuf, that is.
As far as most M96.03 and M96.23 engined cars go, the phrase "matching numbers" equates to "ticking timebomb." That is unless of course the original engine has already been rebuild with the updated intermediate shaft. I personally think as others have said in this thread the way to go is a reman engine. You get all of Porsche's latest and greatest parts and a two year warranty on it all.
What is the updated intermediate shaft? I missed that somewhere. --Brian
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Anyone: What, exactly, is an OPC? I was under the impression that an "OPC" is the equivalent of a "dealer" in the U.S. Is an OPC a legal entity, affiliate, or subsidiary of Porsche SE?
John: What was the OPC's defense; can you outline it? Did they offer any expert testimony or report?
--Brian
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Those look normal. The outside shoulder appears to be solidly tie-barred between the lugs. To measure tread depth, you need to use a gauge in the major circumferential grooves; from your photos, the wear across the tread looks more-or-less even. If anything, the inside looks a bit more worn to me than the outside.
--Brian
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In addition to the tire advice (proper tires, proper inflation), I am wondering, do you need new shocks/struts? --Brian
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You may have read that there is a light sensor in the instrument cluster; it is part of the control system for backlighting of the LCD display in the same cluster.
Also, it's possible you read that the litronics are automatic; they are, in the sense that they adjust their aim according to the loading of the vehicle.
However, automatic illumination of headlamps was not even an option for 986/996, regardless of halogen or litronic.
--Brian
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Is it also possible that the rear tires were demounted and swapped left/right during recent service? --Brian
Edit: Nevermind, I see with 4000 miles, they would have been mounted incorrectly from the get-go, as Paul wonders above.
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I subscribe to a few of the PCA Tech Q&A categories, including the Paterek's interior/exterior section. A lot of questions are answered with "Wurth" and/or "Duplicolor" products, which is what I thought of when I read your question. So, I was inspired to check and mildly amused when that was the answer for you; glad it helps. Take care, --Brian
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These are available in the aftermarket from one of the same companies that supplies the auto industry. Maybe not exactly the PAG or Audi mirrors being discussed, but worth a look in my opinion. See http://www.mitocorp.com/flash/nightvisions...mingmirrors.htm
--Brian
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... they're calling it a steering shaft cover... why would they call it that?
I never could figure that out. When I ordered it, my invoice said "steering shaft cover," so I questioned the parts manager, who just shrugged and said it was the right part number based on PET (which simply calls it a "cover, rear"). Anyway, when it showed up, sure enough it was correct. Curious, I looked at the PET listing of underbody parts for 996, 996TT, etc. because I thought maybe this cover was used up front on one of those chassis; but it wasn't. It could just be an error, maybe brought on in the German translation process--who knows? --Brian
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I replaced that same panel on my '03 986S; though it wasn't as damaged as yours, I figured it was from errant jacking. It is part no. 986.504.119.00 and runs about $100. Porsche calls it couple of things: a "cover" and a "steering shaft cover." My opinion, like those above, is that the underbody is no less important than the shiny side that faces up. --Brian
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Is it part number 999.920.015.40 ? That's what my version of PET says it should be.
--Brian
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If you are worried about authenticity, I think it is advisable to check with PCA's John Paterek, who moderates the "interior/exterior" section of Tech Q&A. For instance, I found this: http://www.pca.org/tech/tech_qa_question.a...C-1CFF06B937FA}
--Brian
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I have to say that I am not as convinced as others that the cause of degradation of the caliper finish is necessarily wheel cleaner. A couple of years ago, two or three of the calipers on my very low mileage (at the time) 2003 Boxster looked like this typical example:
First if the eating away of the factory clear coat by the wheel cleaner, then the paint is the next to go oce the protection is off. It may not account for every problem, but I'm hold to my theory that high-alcohol or bad pH-balanced wheel celaner can cuase damage.
Damon
Sorry, I hit the "add reply" button accidently well before my post was finished. --Brian
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I have to say that I am not as convinced as others that the cause of degradation of the caliper finish is necessarily wheel cleaner. A couple of years ago, two or three of the calipers on my very low mileage (at the time) 2003 Boxster looked like this typical example:
I brought this to the attention of my local dealer, who agreed that it appeared to be clearcoat that was flaking off the caliper. They eventually replaced all the calipers. I am not sure how they worked it out with PCNA, but the vehicle's original warranty was still in effect at the time (the car was also CPO) and there is a term of the warranty that addresses appearance issues. At the time, I was advised, as others have been, that wheel cleaner could damage painted finishes and that it was a probable cause in my case. My position was that whatever cleaner was used did not affect the paint on the wheels themselves, was not affecting all the calipers, and was not uniformly affecting those that were degraded. So just how could any cleaner used on all four wheels over and over again be so selectively damaging? Unless the calipers weren't appropriately finished in the first place (and it didn't matter what was used)?
Not saying that it isn't possible that some nasty cleaners could do some damage, but I have trouble believing that Porsche and Brembo wouldn't account for obsessive owners armed with toothbrushes, or that P21S cleaners (and their like) are the only surfactant solutions that could possibly limit damage to caliper paint.
Like I mentioned, all my calipers were replaced. With no change in my cleaning habits, the replacement calipers look as good as new so far. For what it's worth.
--Brian
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Apparently, 3.2L Boxsters have a unique "titanium metallic" trim (986.541.541.02.9A4 for 2001-on) around the windscreen. Mine looks terrible from some sort of corrosion/deterioration. The parts are relatively inexpensive, so if I can remove/replace without having to alter the state of the glass, it would allow me to direct my OCD elsewhere.
From what I can tell, it seems as if the metal trim is slotted for the glass to fit into around its periphery. Does the rubber seal snap into the trim behind it? Thanks, Jeff.
--Brian
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Can you remove and replace the seal and trim around the 986/996 windshield, aka windscreen?? I mean, leave the glass alone, just replace parts 2 and 3 only (see below)? I can't tell from PET or the workshop manual if you can do this; the instructions are obviously for removal of the glass itself, with the removal and installation of the seal and trim as incidental steps.
I am hoping our glass experts (you know who you are) can shed some light. Thanks, --Brian
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When you disconnect the battery, the windows have to re-learn their upper and lower travel limits. This is done by "teaching" the windows: pressing and holding the window switches until the windows are completely up or down and then vice versa. Basically, what you did. It's in the owner's manual somewhere. --Brian
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FYI, what you are tapping into is called a bridge plug; these are identified on the schematic as "BS" and then a number. Sorry I didn't read this sooner, but glad you figured out you had to remove the relay carrier to get to them.
Make absolutely sure you tapped into the correct bridge plug, since your perspective is different whether you are looking at the relay carrier from the front vs. the back.
--Brian
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I trying a set of these Bridgestone ADRENALIN R001
Where did you get them? --Brian
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The Potenza RE001 Adrenalin are not available in the USA, at this time. In its place, you could consider the recently introduced Potenza RE760 Sport. --Brian
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I think the munro86 is surmising that the previous owner experienced an airbag MIL, probably caused by a malfunctioning clockspring; in turn, the bulb was removed to perform a "repair." What Perry said. --Brian
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There is link in this thread (here) to "carboncow," by rsfeller of this board. --Brian
Oil Change Instructions
in DIY Articles - Carrera (996) - Maintenance
Posted
You have to look at both the minor maintenance schedule and the major maintenance schedule. They dovetail with each other in terms of time and mileage. Thus, the manufacturer's suggested oil change interval in this case is every 2 years or 20,000 miles. --Brian