Q-Ship986

I test drove, back-to-back, a brand new '05 Boxster against a 1,000-mile CPO '03 Boxster S that I ended up buying last summer. Using Porsche-published data, note the differences between these two vehicles:

'05 Base 2.7L

0-60 mph in 5.9s

240 hp @ 6400 rpm.......(par)

199 ft lb @ 4700 rpm.....(par)

'03 S 3.2L

0-60 mph in 5.4s

258 hp @ 6200 rpm.......( +7.5%)

229 ft lb @ 4600 rpm.....(+15.1%)

I bought the '03S for many reasons over the '05 base, but the test drive was one of the biggest. Though, before I went out, the salesperson assured me I would feel no significant difference. He contended that it was on the track where the difference would play out and unless I was dropping the clutch with hard starts, I wouldn't be able to make out the 0.5 second difference between the two. I drove the 2.7L first with an open mind. My route took me down a busy road with stop lights to a highway, on which I did a few mile loop and returned. Then I took the 3.2L on the exact same route. BTW, both cars were manuals (5-speed for the '05 and 6-speed for the '03).

The difference of 18 hp and 30 ft lb of torque was not too noticeable in the stop-and-go traffic, where I could barely get to 35-45 mph before the next light. However, making the turn onto the highway on-ramp was different. There, I could press into it from a street-start of about 5-10 mph. The S applied noticeably more pressure to my back than the base. Not tons more, like a TT, but noticeably more--I think just about anybody could have felt it.

When you're talking about how much you 'feel,' I think it is the torque you should examine, especially in the real world (i.e. not on the track). The question here, between the 3.2L to the 3.4L is a matter of 15 hp and 15 ft lb, which are +5.4% and +6.4% differences respectively between those engines. Compare those differences to those from my back-to-back driving impression above.

I'm not too sure that if you could take what I felt during those test drives, and divide that difference in half, that it would be all that compelling. So, I'm with CharlieG: my guess is that it would be incremental--at best. Questionable whether it would be a big reason to pick an '07S over an '06S, if that's what you're looking at.

--Brian

manud thanks, I wouldn't have thought it was replaceable but after looking more closely it's simply bolted on and the bolt had come loose :)

I'd thought it was welded on like most I'd seen and figured I'd just have to remove it and bring it to a welder to fix it

This was the right thing to do. Other than the reasons I gave above, another reason to keep it is that catalysts need the right temperatures to operate as intended. Too much heat, and the cat can burn up. Not enough heat, and it doesn't do it's job. Sometimes a heat shield isn't a shield, it's a blanket to regulate heat loss. This, and the above, general information comes from contact over the years with actual vehicle manufacturers; FWIW, YMMV, and all that. --Brian

Get under the car, rip off head shield. Proiblem solved.

No you do not need the heat shields, they ave commonly removed on lots of cars (including Porsche) with aftermarket Cats and the like. There is little need for them and they always come loose and rattle in the end.

Manufacturers are forced to place them there as part of some horse**** safty rule from the DOT. As if the heat from the manifolds / exhaust pipeing before the cat is less than the cat and it really needs a shield or something.

I would not remove a heat shield that was protecting the underside of the car or any component, particularly those of rubber or plastic such as a wheel molding, tire, engine mount, control arm bushing, etc. If the shield is protecting the ground, it can be a fire issue (i.e. if you ever park on grass). Catalysts get extremely hot by design (yes, hotter than the inlet/outlet--chemical reaction(s) are occuring within), and shielding is effective at reducing/redirecting the radiation.

Don't know about the warranty coverage, but I would think it would be a nominal fee to tack weld it back into place. --Brian

That was my point I've see kits with them and without them -- maybe a little too tongue in cheek - :lol:

Took me about 14 hours, but I finally get it. Frankly, I just wanted to use 'gizmo' in a sentence--almost drew a yellow box around the screws.

How to unscrew? it was impossible for me!

The screws are not held on with much torque, so they must be seized. Try to use WD-40, PB Blaster, or another penetrant to loosen.

--Brian

Looks the +5mm screws are supposed to be M6x16 p/n 900.269.106.09, quantity = 8.

The regular screws, M6x12, are 900.269.047.09.

--Brian

As I recall the screws don't come with the 5 mm spacers either. You use the two that hold the rotor on.

What are the gizmos in the little bag? ;) --Brian

Today I have been mounting spacers. Impossible for me unscrew little screws on hub. I have installed spacers with no screw, but with 130Nm on longer bolts. I just hope no problem. What do you think?

The little screws are more for convenience...they hold the spacer to the rotor/hub. They keep the spacer in place when mounting the wheel and when removing the wheel. If you don't use the screws, then the spacer may stick to the back of the wheel or simply fall. If the spacer falls into the wheel, it could scratch or otherwise damage it. The lug bolts hold the wheel, spacer, and rotor firmly to the hub. --Brian

good job!! However I still think there is no mistake in TSBs, page 7 of both TSB is for size wheels that require longer bolts.

That is not how I read page 7 in either TSB. These pages state:

"Wheel mounting must be done using the 5 mm longer wheel bolts of the 911 GT3..." (5/04 4440)

and

"Wheel mounting must take place with the 5 mm longer wheel bolts of the 911 GT3..." (4/04 4440)

It doesn't say anything like "for size wheels that require longer bolts."

In 18" winter tires, longer bolts are required and not in summer tires. I am not sure if I am thinking wrong but this is what TSB says!

It doesn't make any sense for the wheel bolts to be different between summer/winter tire use on the same wheels. However, it is perfectly understandable to me that when technical documents are written for technical matters that are among many hundreds of thousands of pages of technical documents, that sometimes an error or omission is made. I think that is the case with the footnoting for that wheel on page 2 of TSB 4/04 4440.

This is a car company that shaved fractions of millimeters from their lug bolts to save unsprung weight. If they are recommending a longer bolt in this instance, they mean it.

--Brian

I looked at these TSB's:

-- 4/04 4440, dated May 25, 2004, Summer Tire and Wheel Summary

-- 5/04 4440, dated Sep 14, 2004, Winter Tire, Wheel, & Snow Chain Applications

On page 7 of both TSB's, it is pretty clear: When using the 5mm spacers (no matter what wheel), you must use the +5mm GT3 bolts.

However, there is a discrepancy in the footnoting, which is apparently fouling the situation here. Note the following:

-- The summer tire TSB does not denote use of the +5mm bolt when outlining use of the spacer for the 18" wheels at the bottom of page 2 (see footnotes on page 3).

-- The winter tire TSB does denote use of the +5mm bolt for the same wheels on page 3.

Considering page 7 of both TSB's, coupled with practical logic, use +5mm bolts with 5mm spacers.

--Brian

Hi I have a 2000 C2 fitted with the CDR-£" radio. Unfortunatly it didn't come with the instruction booklet for the radio. Has anyone got it in PDF format that I can be sent? Cheers for your help!

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;showfile=545

--Brian

What is this little silver under spacers? screws? what use?

http://coochas.com/pics/5mmspacers/5mmkit.jpg

They are screws to fasten the spacer to the rotor. --Brian

I use a wide screwdriver; insert it under the push pin and then twist the handle. Grab the pin, rotate and pull, rotate and pull. Pull the pin all the way out. --Brian

Could be that control arm was used as a hold-down when the vehicle was transported on a flat-bed wrecker? --Brian

. . . . . . ...and a light silicon on the rubber (yes I know silicon and rubber are not good friends) ....

Petroleum-based lubricants applied to most rubbers are the primary thing to avoid. Silicones mixed with petroleum distillates would likely be an issue, too. Pure silicone, depending on the type of silicone, doesn't necessarily damage a given rubber, depending on the type of rubber.

An excellent automotive rubber lubricant--i.e. for seals, o-rings, and the like--is one based on DuPont Krytox.

--Brian

I will be going on a fun road trip on the scenic byway south east of Portland. I'll probably have to have to car towed back to Portland, if anything goes wrong, not that anything has in two years. Should I get the codes checked ?

You don't say how many miles are on your car, how far this trip will take you, or what/when you had for last service.

If you have your car serviced at a Porsche dealer, they may have performed the task you are asking about, which they call "Diagnosis [sic] system: read out fault memory." This is part of the maintenance schedule every 15,000 miles (24,000 km). If you drive less than 9,000 mi (15,000 km) per year, Porsche recommends a yearly maintenance, which includes the same "Diagnosis [sic] system: read out fault memory."

"Yearly maintenance" also includes checking fluids, tires, driveline, suspension, etc. Basically, they give the car a once-over. Expect about an hour's labor, like US$90, depending on where you are.

Seems like good, practical preventative care for longevity of your car and your piece of mind, no matter what or where you drive.

--Brian

An update here, with another open letter for input...

As far as the CD goes, I tried it in my other two cars, no problem.

Just picked up the car from the dealer; they had almost two weeks with it. I didn't get a chance to talk to the tech personnally, but the service manager had been giving me updates all along. They tried the test disc in at least one other car in their shop to verify to themselves that it isn't the disc that 'pops.' They replaced the amp again, but that didn't work (again). They progressively eliminated each speaker as the problem by disconnecting all of them and reconnecting each individually. Apparently, all the speakers make the popping noise to a degree; I think it is worst from the door woofers. They checked my installation of the rear speaker kit. They replaced the CDR-23. They disconnected the CDC-4 and played the disc in the head unit. They somehow tested the MOST cabling. None of these things panned out.

They have offered to try another new amp. I am skeptical, since that would be amp #4 (including the original). FWIW, Porsche is on their 4th iteration of this amp; my original was an -00 part number and the latest is -03. From the TSB's, they seem to have amp issues. But, does anyone really think another amp installation is warranted?

The dealer (Cascade) has been extremely helpful and diligent. They have been in touch with PCNA for assistance, but, except for trying another amp, they seem to be at the end of their rope.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

--Brian

Are the CD's clean? Are they copies?

Clean discs, not copies. I took it to the dealer for this issue and a couple other minor items. I didn't troubleshoot it much beforehand; that's their job I figured, given my full warranty still in effect. Now, I'll give it some effort.

Since I got the car back, I skimmed through a few discs in the changer. Frankly, certain songs on one disc (Killers--Hot Fuss) were the worst offenders. I took that disc out, wiped it off (again), put it back in...same pops in the same places. Took it out, put it in the head unit. Pops in the same places, but a bit less forcefully. Turned down volume, no change in pop intensity. Turned off "loud" feature and dialed bass back from +5 to 0. Now, the pops nearly disappeared; had to really listen, knowing where they were supposed to be, to hear them.

Not sure what to attribute any differences in the CD audio from the head unit to the changer.

Don't really think it's the CD's, and don't think it's the amp (especially since it's a replacement).

Is this a speaker not handling a deep bass signal appropriately? I'll be trying to figure that out over the weekend, but appreciate any more thoughts.

--Brian

My '03 986S has an M490 factory system with CDR-23 (MOST), 6x40 amp, and CDC-4 changer. I have dash speakers, door subwoofers, and a rear speaker kit (PNP, self-installed a year ago) in the pizza oven.

Recently, I noticed an occasional popping sound from the speakers, particularly during CD play. It's a rather loud pop, like an electrical surge has been sent to the speakers. Can't tell for sure, but it doesn't seem to come from any one speaker more than another. It sounds like this: POP ! (ha-ha)

Anyway, I took it in and the dealer verified the issue and ordered a new amp, which was installed just yesterday. I thought the amp replacement made sense since it's what powers the speakers. But, the problem still persists.

Before I run it back in to them, has anyone else experienced this issue?

Thanks,

--Brian

Be careful using these types of sponges; they are abrasive in the sense of light polishing compound or hand glaze. Do not use too aggressively on a painted surface, such as the "soft touch" consoles and door pocket covers and the like; first the dirt will come off, then the paint. --Brian

....So the question is .... was this just the standard story to assure they got the required $400+ out of a visiting customer or can they really tell that something is going to fail? (I can see a code might exist that says that paramaters were exceeded at some time in the past but can they tell how frequently, by how much or how often?)

I believe the OBD system stores "pending" malfunction information. For instance, the system doesn't immediately illuminate your CEL upon immediately detecting every fault. Many faults must repeat themselves, usually within a predetermined interval (i.e. cold starts, drive cycles, etc.). If the fault doesn't repeat within the designated interval(s), the system clears it.

--Brian

P.S. I don't think they can tell much about the magnitude or frequency of the "pending" fault. They are just stored code(s). To get magnetude or frequency, I think the car needs to be monitored real time, with "actual" values, using a PST2, PIWIS, or Durametric system/tool.

Thanks for the response Brian. That is where the confusion originated, I checked the owner's manual and it recommended the tire pressure you listed, but when I checked the fuel door it had a column for rear tire sizes and one for front tire sizes and the only tire size that had the 29/36 psi pressures were 205/50 r17 and 225/45 r17 respectively. I guess the question is do the pressures listed apply to all the tires listed on the fuel door? Thanks, Raul

Well, I guess I'd like to see your sticker to fully understand where the confusion originates.

This is mine (2003 986S):

This sticker lists numerous tire sizes/types, depending on what came as standard equipment (the ZR17 tires), optional equipment (the ZR18 tires, standard on my S), or special equipment (i.e. the 17" and 18" M+S tires). Your sticker may vary, depending on model year among other things.

All the road tires listed on that sticker above are to be set to 29 psi (front) and 36 psi (rear) respectively. (The temporary spare is an exception, which is to be set to 60 psi.) This also corresponds to the information provided in my owner's manual.

If your sticker looks like mine, is it possible that you are interpreting the table to mean that 29/36 applies only to that very row of tires? In other words, are you looking at it like this?:

(Red box added for emphasis.)

If that's how you are reading it, I see your confusion. The table above is correctly interpreted by applying the pressures to the other rows of tires as well. Hope that helps.

--Brian

In the owner's manual Porsche recommends rear and front tire pressures, do these tire pressures apply for all tire sizes? I am confused since inside the gas tank cover the tire pressure recommended is aligned with a particular tire size. Any input will be appreciated Thanks.

Porsche has numerous tire/wheel fitments for the Boxster. The owner's manual may cover many/all of these (for your model year), since the manual is inserted into a given Boxster with any one of these combinations.

My manual, for 2003 models, says to use Porsche-approved tire sizes (consult dealer) and use 29 psi front and 36 psi rear, regardless of size.

The sticker on the fuel door may be more specific to your vehicle. It may have just your size, or it could include others.

Check your tires to determine if the proper sizes are fitted front and rear. Follow the pressures recommended on the fuel door for that size (which should also correspond to same recommendations listed in the owner's manual). Let us know if there is a conflict or if you have a question about the proper fitments.

--Brian

Can you install that switch upside-down, so it, you know, makes more sense for a garage door? Just wondering... --Brian

According to my PET, which is about 1.5 year old now, the trim piece you're after comes in laquered black, graphite grey, savana, metropol blue, nephrite green, boxster red, cinnamon brown, and arctic silver. It is also available in leather (many matching interior colors), dark and light rootwood, and carbon fiber.

Aluminum look is not listed.

The part number for the arctic silver trim/surround ("horseshoe" style for 2003-up) is 996.552.967.13

It may be telling that alumimum look is listed for the center vent assembly. Both arctic silver and aluminum look are listed for the side vents. I think these are for the slats and thumbwheels only.

--Brian

Your right-drift problem is definitely related to the the front cross camber. Not enough negative camber on the right side to counter the camber force from the left. In other words, travelling on a level surface, the left front tire is forcing the vehicle to the right more than the right front tire is forcing it to the left. With about 0.6 deg cross camber, you have a significant right drift tendency.

The tires themselves could have certain amount of conicity which manifests as a right or left drift tendency. In your case, if the tires are imparting a right-drift tendancy, the effect is additive to the cross camber you have. If the tires have a left-drift tendency, when you swap them, the drift will get even worse. When I say swap the tires, I'm actually referring to swapping the whole tire/wheel assemblies from side-to-side. If you have directional tires, swapping them by removing them from their wheels and remounting on the other side (keeping the correct rotation direction) will be a net no effect.

In any case, swapping the tires would be interesting, but I'd address the cross camber condition regardless.

--Brian

BTW, an industry rule of thumb for objectionable drift/pull tendency is 8 seconds or less to drift one lane at 55 mph on a typical crown (about 2%, if I recall correctly) road, on either side of the crown.