CDN_Stig

There is a straight trim panel piece along the back underneath the back window.

Mine got severely water damaged by the guys who detailed the car. I need to remove it and refinish or find a replacement.

Does it just "tug off"? It seems to be attached along the top right at the window. I was just going to yank it, but figured I should ask first.

Thanks

I ended up keeping it charged over the winter ... worked out fine. I just trickle charged it once a month till it was 100%.

It's very likely as it appears only one of mine was actually broken. I'd also notice it mostly on certain potholes or manhole cover in which only one wheel is affected.

Something like going over a speedbump head on wouldn't normally cause it.

It was a dull clunk/thunk type noise.

They are reasonably cheap to replace and only 2 bolts. It was a bit more of a pain getting it to line up again, but now that I've done it once I'd consider it very easy if I had to do them again.

If you can get it on a hoist it was easier to tell by pushing up on the swaybar, I couldn't get it to move on the driveway.

If you are doing it yourself, plan on using a second jack to support the control arm, otherwise you'll have a hardtime getting it back in (and even out for that matter).

Mine sounded like the drivers side, but it was actually the passenger side that had the play in it (the boots were torn on them as well). Once they were off you could pop it in and out by hand.

Thanks, I figured as much. From the design it makes it looks like it is, but then I was thinking, how can anything this "flimsy" be holding the alignment. :)

At least I no longer have a clunk!!! wooo ... I lived with that for a year, wish I had changed it sooner.

Do you need to do an alignment after replacement?

Stock bar on a 99 c2

I'm about to park it for the winter. Last year I left everything and it started fine in the spring, but I was considering disconnecting the battery this year.

Is there any problem with disconnecting it for that length of time? I don't want it to lose memory of the immobilizer keys in particular.

What do you guys normally do?

Anyone used NPN brake pads before?

They are super cheap... I suppose you get what you pay for. Just looking for an OEM replacement for the front.

For me locally: Pagids $140, NPN $59

Should I just buy the Pagids?

Thanks

The shop topped it off with G012A8G1G Audi/VW coolant. is that ok? I had the original yellow/green in there. They claimed they called the dealer and said it was ok ...

<limited knowledge> I think I read somewhere that if a key doesn't get used in a long time the ECU forgets it or locks it or something like that, and that you should use your spares every now and then so the programming doesn't get lost. </limited knowledge>

This could be BS because I can't remember the source, but I use my spare every now and then as cheap insurance. (No local dealer to reprogram)

Thanks my friends ...

It actually looks like it has the newer cap and newer bottle already. Apparently the newer designed ones still don't last.

Noticed the 2001- overflow bottle is significantly cheaper than the 99-2000 one.

Is it interchangable or do I have to get the older one for a '99?

Thanks

Is there an alternative to this? No local Porsche dealer. I assume something else has to be the same, but to save an extra trip trying to match it, was hoping something like a "Jetta one is the same" etc...

Thanks

I have no experience with A/S on a Porsche, but A/S on just about any car are a waste of time. However, for legal sake you'd probably have to if you do drive it in the snow.

I remember watching an episode of a car show where they took a C4 out in the snow in Toronto. With all the traction control aids they said it was one of the best cars they'd ever driven. I can't remember what they had for tires on it, but I think they were stock...]

but I digress...

The seat bolts to the rails at the back of the seat - if you fully raise the seat and look from the back, you should be able to see these bolts. Other than that, I can't imagine why you would be getting as much movement....

It seems to be height dependant, its pretty firm still if its not low. If its as low as it goes it rocks pretty good. When I get a chance I'll fiddle some more.

Frame rail boltsare definitely tight, its something in the seat itself.

I believe fuse 9 is for a seat heater, if your car does not have one, that fuse will be empty.

If you put a fuse tap in to it, it is live when the car is running. Perfect one to use for DRL's.

I currently jumpered 6->9 on my US-spec 996 (6 is low beam) to get through inspection as we require DRL's in Canada ... which reminds me I need to clean this up before something bad happens.....

The frame rail is tight, but the seat rocks back and forth a 1/2 inch or so. Depends mostly on position how severe. I assume its loosened up/wore with people jumping in and out over the years.

It's not just the backrest. Its the whole seat including back rest/seat bottom.

Is there any sort of tightening up maintenance one can do?

Dealer told me that he can't pull up repair history as Porsche doesn't have a central database.

Is the only way I can find out if any RMS/IMS work has been done or who replaced the engine by calling each of the dealers?

I just noticed my engine VIN doesn't match.

Nice, I will look further. I see so many I'm not sure what the exact size is. If you can remember the seller and PM that would be great. Thanks!

I'm missing 3 creasts.... I was browsing ebay looking for a "cheap alternative" to the $65 ones ... any suggestions?

I hate admitting to being a fool, but hopefully this will help the next guy.

Check the engine lid as well. It looked like it was closed but it wasn't tight. All's good, no more phantom alarms or honks.

:oops:

Dry as a bone. Looks like new wiring in there. They were working in that area changing the buckles and wiring harnesses. grrr

It's possible, its been raining like crazy for a few days and my kids have water bottles back there often ... I will go look

I'm starting to think there is more to this. It's been beeping once everytime I set the alarm since it was the dealer. They programmed a key for me and did the wiring harness/buckle upgrade to stop the Airbag light. I was still on original parts.

I'm wondering if in the buckle upgrade they somehow disconnected or knocked loose the center console sensor. How can I check that everything is plugged in correctly? (Where are the wires? how should I take it apart?)

I'd go back to the dealer but its a 4 hour drive

Thanks

My alarm went off inexplicably. I went out and stopped it with the remote. I put the key in the ignition and it was "dead". Like a completely dead battery.

It was probably only going for about 5 mins max.

and

So I sat there for a minute reading the manual, and tried it again. This time I might have hit the brake or pushed in the clutch and it Christmas-treed and everything was fine ....

except

I had to find the radio code and reset the clock etc.

Is this that "safety feature" that if it drops below 11.7V that it stops things? Is that what I experienced?

So if I give up on the service key solution, and ordered one of these:

99663724301

This is the remote version. Does it have the transponder pill? I already have a cut blade (nothing else, and of course dealer programming)