Lee Quave

You don’t have to replace all four tires but it is recommended by some and you definitely you replace both tires on the axle at the same time.

Check out these two web sites for information

http://www.tirerack.com

http://www.1010tires.com/tech.asp

A leak down or "cylinder leakage" test is similar to a compression test in that it tells you how well your engine’s cylinders are sealing. But instead of measuring pressure, it measures pressure loss.

A leak down test requires the removal of all the spark plugs. The crankshaft is then turned so that each piston is at top dead center (both valves closed) when each cylinder is tested. Most people start with cylinder number one and follow the engine’s firing order.

A threaded coupling attached to a leakage gauge is screwed into a spark plug hole. Compressed air (80 to 90 psi) is then fed into the cylinder.

An engine in great condition should generally show only 5 to 10% leakage. An engine that’s still in pretty good condition may show up to 20% leakage. But more than 30% leakage indicates trouble.

The neat thing about a leakage test (as opposed to a compression test) is that it’s faster and easier to figure out where the pressure is going. If you hear air coming out of the tailpipe, it indicates a leaky exhaust valve. Air coming out of the throttle body or carburetor would point to a leaky intake valve. Air coming out of the breather vent or PCV valve fitting would tell you the rings and/or cylinders are worn.

A leakage test can also be used in conjunction with a compression test to diagnose other kinds of problems.

A cylinder that has poor compression, but minimal leakage, usually has a valvetrain problem such as a worn cam lobe, broken valve spring, collapsed lifter, bent push rod, etc.

If all the cylinders have low compression, but show minimal leakage, the most likely cause is incorrect valve timing. The timing belt or chain may be off a notch or two.

If compression is good and leakage is minimal, but a cylinder is misfiring or shows up weak in a power balance test, it indicates a fuel delivery (bad injector) or ignition problem (fouled spark plug or bad plug wire).

You should have a leak down test completed. That should confirm if you have a cylinder head problem or not. You should also get your oil tested to determine for sure if you have coolant mix with it or just water from condensation.

In your earlier post you said your coolant light started flashing. That’s what happened to my car and I ended up having to replace the engine. I never found out for sure what was wrong with my engine but the most like problem was a cylinder head.

Keep us posted and good luck.

I had the same issue with my car. The car would start just fine when it was cold but after it warmed up it cranked real slow. It got worst after a while to the point that it wouldn’t crank unless I let it cool down for a few minutes. Turned out it was the starter that was bad.

GL

Why is warming at idle bad for the engine? I don't quite understand the arguments (aside from the wasting gas and going no where :lol: ) Please explain.

It’s not bad for the engine but what you really want to do is warm up the whole car; engine, transmission, tires and suspension and you can’t do that with just idling the engine.

Contributing members can access the options codes lookup under the documents menu.

Actually the Option Codes Lookup is available to all Members - just not Guests.

My bad! :blush: But I didn’t say you have to be a contributing member. I was just drumming up support. :thumbup:

Contributing members can access the options codes lookup under the documents menu.

You will love the improved handling; I know I did. I did the install as the dealer would have charge $1,230 not including the alignment. Enjoy.

Sweet looking Porsche! Good luck with the two new additions to your family.

I would try a salvage company or you could look for part in the Porsche PET catalog. Try this link.

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/index.jsp

Thanks for the help everyone and have a happy New Year!

Try using search feature. ;) There are many posting on the subject. Below is a link to one that basically tells you that all you need to do is pull hard. I have read another post that suggested using two wrenches to sandwich the shaft just below the knob and pull up. Better leverage.

Good luck.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=Short+shift

Your old pads look like the Porsche Performance pads, which should have PN#s 996.351.930.30 and 996.352.930.30.

Your new ones looks like the stock pads that have the round metal thingie, which I guess are for damping vibrations.

The photos are off Pelicanparts.com not my actual pads. The thing is; a year or so ago I was in the market for some new pads and they all look like the old picture even the Pagid Orange I bought for the track and the BHP pads I bought for daily driving.

I’m concerned about them fitting. I was also wondering what the purpose of those round metal thingies serve as they will outside of the calipers.

I just ordered some new brake pads for my car but the new pads are different.

On Pelican’s web site they have photos under more than on brand that look just like the ones new one pictured below including the Genuine Porsche.

The actual pad material is the same size and the pin holes line up. Can anyone verify if these are the correct pads? If so why were changed and are they any better?

These are the new ones.

And these are what my old ones look like.

I have 295/30/18 on my Carrera 18 x 10 wheels on my 99 C2 with no issues at all.

Yeah me too! After having to replace my engine I get a little paranoid. Just so happens I was going out of town on business so I wasn’t going to have my car anyway.

I got a call while out of town from the dealer and it just so happened that my reverse switch was bad so I’m out another $150.

Please don’t tell me this is a $20 part that would’ve taken me just a few minutes to do myself.

Loren,

I figured as much. They have always been aggressive with the labor charges. I guest they are the only game in town when it comes to Porsches.

Thanks

I lucked out, I think! The Porsche tech says it’s the shift cable. I was quoted $883 for parts and labor. I haven’t seen the quote in writing but it appears kind of high to me. If it takes 4 hours to complete the job the labor would be $410 and parts $388 plus sales tax. Anybody else have this work done? Does the price seem about right? Since it’s already at the dealer it doesn’t really matter but could this be a DIY job? From what I remember it doesn’t look like it would be that difficult.

Thanks Loren

I check the cables and there doesn’t appear to be anything wrong with either. There is no external damage and the connections tight; though I find it unusual that zip ties would be used on the connections to the linkage. The green cables and the linkage at the transmission move easily. The other cable seems to be in tack as it does take up the free play but will not shift.

My car (99 996 C2) is on its way to the dealer. On my way home I down shifted to 2nd gear to cross some RR tracks. There was a slight grinding sensation and when I shifted to 3rd it was hard and rough. Right off I thought something wasn’t right. I tried to shift into another gear but it wouldn’t shift. All I could do was move the shifter up and down. It wouldn’t move left or right at all.

I was able to drive all the way home in 3rd gear; I only had to start from a standstill twice. I remove the center consol and checked the shift lever. I was hoping it was the linkage at the shifter but nothing was amiss with it.

I check the shift linkage at the transmission but there wasn’t anything obviously wrong. One of the levers, the one with the green cable, I was able to move easily back and forth but the other lever wouldn’t move at all.

Anyone with a similar experience? Is this something that can be repaired or will I need to buy a new transmission?

Wow that’s high. I paid $800 for the 60K maintenance but that was with deleting the air filter and pollen filter. IMO the most important part of the 60K maintenance is changing the spark plugs. Changing the plug is the most difficult and time consuming part. Other than the air filter and pollen filter, which just about anyone can do, the plugs are the only other part that is changed; the rest is inspection. And if they find anything that needs to be replace or repaired it will cost extra.

Hi All,

Last night while changing out my O2 sensors I found this plug tucked in with the wires for the O2 sensor on the right side of the engine compartment. The wires are bundled with the wires to the mass air flow sensor. Anyone have an idea what this plug is to? I had a new engine installed less than a year ago; could this be something for a car with other options? Notice the plug has six female receivers that are number 1 to 6. My Durametric reader didn’t pick up any error codes other than the aging O2 sensors.

I found the following numbers on the plug.

1-929582

>PA66<

AMP1-828877-1

BMW 1378121

Dealer quoted me $495 to resurface and redrill my rotors, is that too much? He said there's rust on them and has to be resurfaced to perform well.

How much rust are you talking about? Mine rust after every car wash but the rust if scraped away with the first application of the brakes.

Resurfacing the rotor will greatly shorten their useful life. I would suggest that you get new rotors if they are rusted that bad. You can buy a complete set of genuine Porsche rotors for about $650.

Good luck

I suggest bring your car to a trusted auto parts store and have them test the battery.

Thanks for the info Maurice. I'm ordering the two before cat O2 sensor from Autozone for 124.99. I hope I can tell the difference preformance wise.