Lee Quave

There is a maintenance checklist on this site. Here is a shortcut

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...code=maint_menu

IMO $2,400 is way too much for the 60,000 service. I had it done not too long ago and paid about $650. I saved a lot by change the filters and the oil myself. The remainder of the service is a thorough inspection and sparkplug change, which I will go myself from now on.

The tech should be able to tell how much clutch wear you have and about how many more miles is left on the clutch. If it’s close I would replace it.

I actually replaced my RMS with the new and improved model while I was having the clutch replaced. It only cost a few dollars more but then I have a two year warranty on the RMS. I think it was worth the extra cost. I had about 55,000 miles on the clutch when it was replaced. It sure felt a lot easier and smother, I guest it wears so slowly I didn’t even notice how hard it had gotten until a new one was installed.

Hopefully I will not have any RMS issue with my new remanufactured motor but I now have a two year unlimited mile warranty since my car was not of warranty at the time.

The clutch has to be removed and replaced to change the RMS so; it shouldn’t cost any additional labor only the parts. Some shop frown on the practice of supplying your own parts as they do make money on parts. I would get the parts from whoever is doing the work as the saving on a clutch assembly wouldn’t be huge and you would avoid any pent-up resentment.

Check out the following web site. You put in your present wheel width and offset and the width and offset of the wheel you are considering and it gives you how much further out and/or in the wheel would be. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

If you had 9 quarts of oil in your engine and none was on the dip stick you’re either on unlevel ground or the dip stick is the wrong length.

John,

Have you gotten your car back? You must have the patients of a saint. Have you found out what “upgrades” have been done to the replacement engines as compared to the original M96? I get no response from PCNA and the local service tech seems to be in the dark. I guess Porsche wants it that way!

Lee

My 30K was about $900. I checked at a dealer in New Orleans and they quoted $1,200 for the 30K. I got the price down to $650 on the 60K by not have the oil changed, the air filter changed or the pollen filter changed.

I’m not sure the 30K and 60K services are a good value, other than oil, filters, spark plugs and top off fluids it’s basically an inspection.

Check the oil level with the dip stick on level ground with the engine properly warmed up.

Dipstick? You mean actually get out and open the hood?

I was getting spoiled with this inside gig.

I will do that when I get off work. The car will have sat for about 9 hours and be good and cold.

My guess and hope is that there is a sending unit issue only. The car doesn't burn oil or smoke or leak so it would have to be going somewhere unless they didn't put enough in when doing the RMS.

It’s been my experience that the inside oil level display is affected by even small inclines or declines. Oil expands when hot so for the most accurate reading check after the engine is fully warmed up but allow a few minutes for the oil to drain back into the oil pan.

Check the oil level with the dip stick on level ground with the engine properly warmed up.

While cleaning the inside of my MY99 996 I discover that the carpet is wet on the passenger side foot well as well as under the passenger side rear seat. I would call it wet rather than damp. I had to drive in the rain a few days ago so I figure that may be where the water is coming from but, how is it getting into the car and why only on the passenger side? I have not driven through any standing water more than a few inches deep.

I also noticed condensation inside on lower right hand side of rear window. I believe this is from the gasket as it appears to be loose in that corner. Is it possible that water could get to the front floorboard all the way from the back window? It seems unlikely to me. Has anyone else had this problem? I would greatly appreciate any suggestions from the group. :help:

:renntech:

Porsche recommends that all four be the same. The reasons being handling and more importantly braking. That be said, unless you track the car, it’s unlikely that you will get to the point where it will be a factor for “normal” everyday driving. Also if your rear tires are shot the front probably aren’t that far behind.

Personally I would change them all at the same time.

Nearly there!!!

Went to see new engine today. Hoping to be back on the road end of this week/early part of next week. Getting clued up on running in disciplines.

Porsche factory says no running in required. OPC says keep to 3,500-4,500 RPM tops for 1,000-2,000 miles. Oil change after 1,000 miles. I noticed a variance in the feedback from Lee's post re new engine. When you've paid for it out of your own pocket (so far), it gives you a different perpsective I guess.

Just waiting for official RAC report and then will forward to Porsche GB.

Rgds

John

Check out this link to my post on Rennlist for additional opinions on engine break-in. http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=324510

You can also check out this link for an interesting view on the subject http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Lee

John,

I as well would gladly throw in a few dollars to help with the expenses.

It appears that you are doing better than I in your dealings with Porsche. I received a letter saying that they will not be in a position to provide any additional consideration to me on this matter. I’m not really sure what they mean by that statement but, I take it that they won’t response to any further inquiries from me.

Good luck to you.

Lee

Hi Lee,

I ask the question because I believe the 2-year warranty is only parts, not labor as well. I'm considering extended warranty on mine before it hits the 125,000 mile limit: -

1. Because if anything else major goes that EW would cover and I don't take it out, my finances would be blitzed.

2. Going through the 111-point check I believe would help to endorse the work that the specialist is providing with engine install etc., and then Porsche couldn't come back and say "the work wasn't carried out by an OPC"etc.,etc., if there were to be any future claims on the engine.

3. Peace of mind for another 12 months.

Just my thoughts and not wanting to go through again what I've experienced since November. Plus with a courtesy car I wouldn't get the grief from my wife for borrowing her car for such along time (that's got to be worth the cost of EW itself!!! ):D

Rgds

John

John,

Are you buying an EW through Porsche?

Lee,

Good to see you've got your car back and the cost looks reasonable, about £5,890 at today's rate compared to my £7,326 ($14,459) excluding labor & ancilliaries. :clapping: :clapping: :thumbup: :cheers:

I just put an update on my topic.

Enjoy you new engine, 2 years' warranty and peace of mind. Are you taking out extended warranty as well?

Best regards

John

John,

I received a letter from PCNA acknowledging receipt of my letter and that they have created a case file for me. They ask that I be patience while they review my claim. They said I will be contacted by phone or in writing within fifteen business days and thanked me for taking the time to bring this matter to their attention.

I eagerly await their reply.

I have to some research on extended warranty in light of the engine being already covered for two years. Any suggestions?

Check out the responses to the same question on Rennlist http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/show...ad.php?t=324510

John,

You may be interested in this TSB

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...load&id=152

I sent a lengthy letter and 13 other supporting photos showing the grind marks in close-up and more detail and a further imperfection in the bearing support metal to Customer Assistance (now there's an oxymoron if ever I heard one!!!) in Reading today. I quoted the Sale of Goods Act 1979 and stated that the marks on the crank cradle could only have been done at the point of manufacture or assembly and certainly before the car's normal lifetime began. I also pointed out that only areas that had cracks in showed signs of grinding. Hence the part in question was and still is, not "fit for purpose".

The photos I included clearly show ancilliary marks left by a grinding tool on the curved parts of the crank cradle section involved. (Example attached).

Their attitiude was that's just your opinion, prove it and we're not changing our decision. They invited me to get an independent inspection done if I wanted to pursue the matter but there would be no guarantee that they would change their decision.

They suggested I contact the Institute of Automotive Engineering Assessors www.iaea.uk.com for an independent assessment. The assessor I eventually talked to said that I'd be better off contacting the Institution of Mechanical Engineering as my situation was more metallurgy based than the situations the IAEA advise on.

I was also advised by Dave Griffiths that his contact in Stuttgart's experience was that sending any complaint direct to the Engineering or QA departments would probably be unproductive.

It makes me think a direct approach to Dr. Wiedeking might be worth trying!!! Who knows??

Rgds

John

How long did it take for them to response to your letter? Did they call you, e-mail you or send you a reply in writing? I’m just trying to figure out when I should expect them to respond to mine.

Thanks for your assistance.

Lee

I like the Bel Pro RX65. Good reviews by Radar Roy! :thumbup:

I just got my car back with my new (remanufactured) engine. :thumbup: Any suggestions on engine break-in other than the Porsche recommended guideline of keeping the RPMs under 4200 for 5000 miles?

Lee

So what was the ultimate resolution regarding Porsche covering or not covering your engine? How much did the whole engine replacement cost?

Thanks for all the details. :clapping:

It ended up costing $11,626, that’s after a 10% discount for being a PCA member. I didn’t receive any “goodwill assistance” from Porsche as of yet. It hasn’t been 15 days since my letter was received and I haven’t received any responses to my e-mails. It’s unlike that I will get any reimbursement from Porsche, they got their money, but I may luck out. :cheers:

hi mate,

saw your post, thought my input my help you out.

Have you had the oil cooler checked for oil and water mixing?

To diagnose possible head gasket failure's on cars, I use a cumbustion chamber leak detector from SNAP-ON.

It's basically a chemical which, when mixed with coolant from your car, changes colour if combustion fumes are detected.

If the chemical changes colour then I'm afraid it's not good news...some where combustion fumes are entering the cooling system which means it's either:

blown headgasket

crack in the cylinder block

The snap-on part number is GDCT16. I've been using this for a while and has always been accurate. It should retail for around $100, which may be cheaper than paying a mechanic.

hope this helps.

Check out my post Another Engine Failure here http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=12096 I just got my car back this afternoon. I need to take a few long drives (what a chore) to break the engine in.

I just got my car back with my new (remanufactured) engine. :thumbup: Any suggestions on engine break-in other than the Porsche recommended guideline of keeping the RPMs under 4200 for 5000 miles?

Lee

Check outthis thread. http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...;hl=speedometer

You could also do a search for speedometer and get more information.

If you find a fix pleae share with the rest of us.

Thanks,

Seems to make sense. I'm facing the abyss. My 1999 996 911 is facing a new engine. It only has 85,000 miles on it. My Toyota 4-runner has 320,000. We just discovered oil in the coolant and multiple flushes don't help. I guess that explains the quart of oil I'm losing every 200 miles. Faced with what appears to be the inevitable, it seems that Porsches owes the people who believed in them.

This is my first Porsche, I was hoping to get another one later. Maybe I should have read this forum before buying it. But it seems to me that if nobody knows about this problem without months of research, the company owes us something. What is the best way to organize a bunch of angry customers into a fighting force that demands justice? I'm guessing it involves a lawyer, a few hundred letters, a helpful dealers, a few good mechanics, some evidence, some videos on You Tube and all the forums. Its a big project, but Porsche might notice. Does anyone know anyone who has done this and can take the bull by the horns? I'm in.....

The bottom line is what they are concerned about. Bad press is something they want to avoid because if there is enough bad press it will affect their bottom line. I’m sure their bean counters have figured that just a few posts on a few message boards aren’t going to impact their bottom line. So to get them to listen you would need to get the mainstream media to take notice. An article in a national publication such as Car and Driver or Road and Track would make them wake up. That or a class action law suit. It would probably be hard to prove. There are some owners that believe that there isn’t many engine failure statistically. It’s not just about engine failure in the since that major internal parts break (many have) but its other parts that fail i.e. RMS, intermediate shaft, head gasket that necessitate engine replacement.

A question for the group: Does anyone know the position of the Porsche Club of America on the issue? Would they have any data? I’m sure Porsche has but they aren’t going to share that information willingly.

I have been reading all of the posts about engine failure and it scares the hell out of me!!

I have a 99 C2 that I bought 2 years ago with 45k mils on it. It now has 58k. I have never had one single problem with it. Im the third owner. Looking through the records the car has never had a problem of any kind mechanically. I've changed the oil and that's it. :clapping:

Im about to do the 60k maintainance. Any tips about things that should be checked??? (besides the usual 60k items).

I have had BMW's and BENZ's in the past and they were nothing but headaches and breakdowns.

My Porsche has been a real treat to own. I drive it hard but dont beat it up.

I'm so sorry that you guys have these horror stories and have taken such a financial beating.

Any advice to look for any suspicious engine problems would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks and good luck with your new engines!!!

I had my 60,000 mile maintenance done less than 10,000 miles before my engine failure. I’m still not sure what failed and let the oil and coolant intermix and I probably never will since it would cost another $2,000 to have the engine broken down to find out. The service tech said the leak down test points to a cracked head or blown head gasket though it could be a failed cylinder sleeve or corroded coolant passages in the head. According to the service manager no test preformed during the 60,000 mile major maintenance would have detected the problem.

Don’t sweat it, it won’t help so drive it like you stole it. :drive:

What is the wheel offset?

Tirerack.com has a lot of information on wheel and tires. Check out this link.

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=101