Vman

Does anyone know the factory Alignment Specs for a 2006 987 Boxster. The car is stock and has the 18 inch wheels on it. Please confirm alignment is done with a full fuel tank.

Thanks,

VM

Loren,

Thanks for the confirmation on rotor thickness. Any idea about pad thickness?

Thanks,

VMAN

I have a 2006 Cayenne S and did the first brake rotor and pad job at 22,000 miles, I am now at 37,000 miles and wondering how far off I am again from repeating this expesnse and if early pad replacement may keep me from having to replace rotors again.

Can someone please confirm that the

V8 Brake disc thickness, new

front - 34 mm

rear - 28 mm

Brake discs minimum thickness

front - 32 mm

rear - 26 mm

Does anyone know what the new pad thickness is (material excluding metal pad backing plate). I realize its 2.5 mm before you hit the wear sensors, but want to know how far I have gone over the last 15,000 miles of driving.

Thanks,

VMAN

This may help you:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...c=27723&hl=

Its a start, but my car is a daily driver and is losing charge overnight now, so either the battery is dead or their is a draw somewhere, anyone replace a battery without doing to the dealer...DIY anywhere?

I had a guy spend two hours replacing the windshield with the doors open and no key in the cayenne, after the job the battery was dead.

I have the center counsel light main switch and side switches turned to off when the doors open, but the rear trunk light does not have an on off switch...could that be the drain? Hard to believe that one light would kill the battery so soon.

Later the same day I charged the battery, and the car started, then we left the car unlocked with the windows down to to off gas any windshield stuff and the battery died again. The car was purchased in March 2007 and has 30,000 miles, dealer says it is common practice to trickle charge a cayenne battery whenever they are working on a car....sounds a bit suspect.

The dealer offered to check the battery for $110 if it is bad they will replace it under warranty, if not its on me. To buy a new battery is $130...but its under the seat...anybody replaced one of these... is their a DIY somewhere?

Thanks,

VM

Thanks

I have the prodigy controller in mine and it has worked fine. You just have to connect the brake sensor wire directly instead of going through the harness. I have heard that the Voyager works well too.

FWIW, I do haul a 20' enclosed and really haven't had too much trouble. The 20' is as long as I wanted to go given the wheelbase but highly recommended over an open.

I have a 2006 Cayenne S with a dealer installed tow package and an aftermarket but dealer installed Tekonsha Voyager controller.

Will the Voyager controller work or am I better off ditching it and going to surge brakes or an analog controller? Seems a ton of horror stories with early Cayennes and the Teknohsa Prodigy controllers due to some voltage mismatch (controller went off at 4v and cayenne would spike at 7 v..so brakes would hit under accelleration.)

Surge brakes suck when backing up, as I am told they don't work as you have to manually unlock them. I have heard mixed reviews on surge brakes working well on steep descents, some say they are fine, others say they suck. Living in CA and having to go over the grapevine...brakes are important.

The max hitch load - tongue weight in the owner's manual makes no sense it is now listed at 308 lbs, yet the car is suppose to be able to tow an over 6,000 lb braked load up to 12% grade...which would mean a tounge weight of around 600 lbs. Note - my car does not have air suspension....is hitch load going to be a problem? Even the lightest open trailer with a 2500lb race car and race tires will come in around 4,000lb and need to put about 400 to 500 lbs of load on the hitch to pull right.

Options

Trailex open trailer with surge brakes and incadescent lights (they have given up on selling electronic brakes and leds lighted trailers to cayenne owners due to problems 1,000 lbs with tire rack.

Featherlight open trailer with electronic brakes and led's lights 1600 lbs with tire rack.

Any advice would be great. Note - I have decided against a enclosed trailer due to the limited wheelbase of the Cayenne S when combined with high winds over our California passes could prove a bit too exciting.

Thanks,

VMAN

IMO, I would not get a 996 for your only car. Forget your concerns about dependability. It is just not practicle if it is your only one. Get a car that can seat at least 4 people.

That's what the wife's car is for. Even better if it's an S4!

Guys I hate to rain the 996 parade, but I have had two 1999 996's that had engine failures at 47,000 and 30,000 miles respectively. I have two friends that have had the same thing happen. The one thing we all have in common is we autocross and DE the cars, people I know with 100,000 miles seem to not punish their cars at race events. As for a 3.6L, it is not much better than the 3.4L, just give it time and you will see just as many failures. Note - even the 997's are starting to have the same type of problems..the one's running in koni challenge are poppinng motors and transmission already......these water cooled cars are not your grandfather's porsche, so just be ready to drop $13K on a new engine if it happens and at about $3-4K when the second gear shift sleeve and ring go out on the transmission. Overall if you buy a good 1999 996 for $30K and have to spend $16K on a new motor and transmission rebuild you still have a hell of a car for less than $50K. Note the only comfort is a new porsche motor comes with a 2 year warranty and if you have Gbox rebuild your transmission it comes with a one year warranty and they have a fix to protect the second gear ring.

VM

BTw if you choose as I did to upgrade the motor when it failes to a 997 3.8 X51 figure on that costing you $30K after motor, transmission, and new clutch work. If you are on the east coast you are lucky as FVD and Farnbacher are close by to do the work, if you are on the west coast plan on another $3,500 for shipping. Also, if you have stock suspension you will need to upgrade to at least a bilsteins PSS9 kit and say goodby to traction control so must have a factory or Guard LSD.

I have a 2006 Cayenne S with a dealer installed tow package and an aftermarket but dealer installed Tekonsha Voyager controller.

Will the Voyager controller work or am I better off ditching it and going to surge brakes or an analog controller? Seems a ton of horror stories with early Cayennes and the Teknohsa Prodigy controllers due to some voltage mismatch (controller went off at 4v and cayenne would spike at 7 v..so brakes would hit under accelleration.)

Surge brakes suck when backing up, as I am told they don't work as you have to manually unlock them. I have heard mixed reviews on surge brakes working well on steep descents, some say they are fine, others say they suck. Living in CA and having to go over the grapevine...brakes are important.

The max hitch load - tongue weight in the owner's manual makes no sense it is now listed at 308 lbs, yet the car is suppose to be able to tow an over 6,000 lb braked load up to 12% grade...which would mean a tounge weight of around 600 lbs. Note - my car does not have air suspension....is hitch load going to be a problem? Even the lightest open trailer with a 2500lb race car and race tires will come in around 4,000lb and need to put about 400 to 500 lbs of load on the hitch to pull right.

Options

Trailex open trailer with surge brakes and incadescent lights (they have given up on selling electronic brakes and leds lighted trailers to cayenne owners due to problems 1,000 lbs with tire rack.

Featherlight open trailer with electronic brakes and led's lights 1600 lbs with tire rack.

Any advice would be great. Note - I have decided against a enclosed trailer due to the limited wheelbase of the Cayenne S when combined with high winds over our California passes could prove a bit too exciting.

Thanks,

VMAN

There is a detailed description of the Sport Chrono Package Plus in the 2005 997 Product Introduction Book.

This is available here for our Contributing Members.

Here is a brief diagram overview from the article.

Loren, just became a contributing member, where can I go to find the information? Thanks,

VMAN

Thank you for your donation.

You can find it here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...mp;showfile=694

The detailed description starts on page 45.

Thanks

There is a detailed description of the Sport Chrono Package Plus in the 2005 997 Product Introduction Book.

This is available here for our Contributing Members.

Here is a brief diagram overview from the article.

Loren, just became a contributing member, where can I go to find the information? Thanks,

VMAN

In other words, the SC allows for more drive imput before PSM (please save me!) kicks in!

If you have PSM turned off, the car will automatically turn PSM back on in a very critical situation.

If you have the SC on, I am not aware of the standard PSM limits being automatically engaged in a critical situation.

Thanks - Just trying to figure out if sport chronon is meanginful in the option pool for a new car purchase.

I agree with you, Vman. This was the hardest option for me to decide on 2 years ago. It is very hard to see the difference during a test drive. I decided to get it, mainly because it was not that expensive. I am very happy with it.

Thanks fo rthe quick replay.... here is round two.....does sport chrono affect when PASM is reactivated in a meaningful way?

From what I have read, sport chrono changes when PSM is awakened from standby (as it can't be turned off for good in a 997) mode to active, in that a car with sport chrono must ABS trigger two wheels under braking vs. non sport chrono equipped car's will reactivate PSM with one ABS triggered wheel under braking. I don't see how this difference really changes much as when PSM reactivates under braking, as overcooking a corner enough to require you to hit the brakes to keep from going off road or off track so hard to have ABS slip one wheel will likely have ABS slipping at least two wheels, am I missing something?

More significantly, in reading, some driver’s mention PSM lights go off when driving around turns, to indicate PSM is using ABD and ASR to limit power on wheel slip (acting like a electronic differential), do they mean that corner exit wheel slip could reactivate PSM or are they talking about PSM light glowing more bright when PSM is switched on and actively working. Any data regarding if sport chrono has any affect on wheel slip under throttle triggering PSM as this would be significant for me. Note - I am planning on adding an aftermarket Guard LSD to control wheel slip so my goal it to keep PSM asleep when I want it to sleep.

Thanks,

VM

In other words, the SC allows for more drive imput before PSM (please save me!) kicks in!

If you have PSM turned off, the car will automatically turn PSM back on in a very critical situation.

If you have the SC on, I am not aware of the standard PSM limits being automatically engaged in a critical situation.

Thanks - Just trying to figure out if sport chronon is meanginful in the option pool for a new car purchase.

If you choose to enable the sport chrono mode via the Sport button, then yes as well as making the car more responsive to throttle inputs, it will retard the PSM slightly too. It will not be off entirely unless you manually hit the PSM button.

Pop

+1. You can definetly get the car more sideways!!

So sport chrono both affects when the system comes back on when you have the PSM button on (ie. you have to lock up two wheels) and increases the PSM limits. Have either of you had a chance to see how it works with DOT R racing tire son?

Thanks,

VMAN

Guys,

I have searched under sport chrono and am wondering if anyone with a pasm car can confirm how it works. I have read that sport chrono will affect throttle mapping (less push on the pedal = more go). everyone agrees on this one. Also, it sport chrono will affect when PSM turns back on if you have it off (two wheel lockup only vs one wheel lockup for no Sport chrono), but does sport chrono do anything to the PSM limits when PSM is actually on?

VMAN

P0413 Electric change-over valve - open circuit

Possible fault cause:

- Wiring harness

- Electric change-over valve

- DME control module faulty

P0418 Secondary air injection pump - open circuit

Possible fault cause:

- Wiring harness

- Relay faulty

- DME control module faulty

P1674 Engine compartment purge fan output stage - open circuit

Possible fault cause:

- Open circuit

- Relay faulty

- DME control module faulty

Do you do an adaption for the DME after programming?

Switch on the ignition

- Wait one minute. Do not press the accelerator

- Switch off the ignition for at least 10 seconds

- Read out the fault memory

Check the fuses and the relays - otherwise you may have smoked the DME.

Thanks

The following fault codes show up on my 996 after I flashed it with a new engine program and can't be cleared (clear them and they come right back). They were not present with the old program. Nothing else has changed in the car. Any thoughts?

Motronic 7.8 Current

P0413 Porsche fault code 85 - Driver elec. switch-over valve Secondary air

P0418 Porsche fault code 84 - Secondary-air pump

P1674 Porsche fault code 497 - Final stage engine compartment purge fan

Thanks,

VMAN

:renntech: I would like to add my 2 cents worth; I had a hard time spending an extra $1000 for after market headers when the X51 headers are $550 thru Sunset Imports. The difference in hp is maybe 2 or 3 at best and they are OEM so there shoul be no warranty issues. :renntech: :renntech:

Im leaning that way. Where did you see that price? I just went to the site, but couldnt find it. thanks

If you call the parts dept. and ask they have them in stock. If you subscribe to Excellence magazine they give a discount.

Good luck.

Hate to burst the header hater bubble, but SCARGO Headers on my 3.8 x51 motor blew away the dyno results of the X51 header and lost nothing on the top end...we ended up with 338 ft/lbs of torque on 91 pump gas proven on two separate load bearing (Mustang and Dyno Dynamics) dynos. SCARGO Headers are not cheap, around $2700, but if you look under a bunch of grandam porsche race cars you will see that they are the header of choice because unlike all the other stuff that claims gains they actually work.

VMAN

Has anyone dyno'd a 997s 3.8 or 3.8 x51 car on a load bearing dyno (Mustang, Dyno dynamic) ? I am curious as to what the stock porsche program runs as far as lambda/air fuel ratio, from 1500 to 2800 full throttle and 2800 to 7300 redline full throttle. Also, if anyone has any test results, please let me know if they were done precat or aftercat.

Thanks,

VMAN

Does anyone know if the compression ratio for the 997 3.8 X 51 changes from the standard 3.8's compression of 11.8 to 1.

Thanks,

VMAN

There is a little free play on the lever with a complete new clutch installed ( slave cylinder removed from the gear box ), if you don't have this play means that the clutch is worn out. The clutch pedal was heavy i presume.

Clutch pressure plate failed, so no freeplay in the clutch, thanks for the input guys.

VMAN

Still trying to diagnose a clutch problem, in the process of changing out the slave and master clutch cylinder, after disconnecting the clutch slave cylinder from the clutch release lever, we found the clutch release lever which is attached to the throwout bearing has no free play, does this mean the clutch is shot and something is obstructing the movement of the release lever? Any ideas? Note - I understand that if the clutch release lever was still attached the the clutch slave cylinder it is suppose to have no free play, but once detached it should move around to allow for adjustment during clutch wear.

Thanks,

VMAN

I need to replace my Clutch Master Cylinder, I don't see a DIY on that one and the old workshop manual only shows how to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Please Help.

VMAN

If you are takling about the one on the tranny it's easy just remove hydraulic line then the 2 bolts holding it on the tranny (from back of car it will be 2 Oclock position right side) pull out then replace new one and reconnect every thing and rebleed by following instruction in the brake bleeding DIY section. Good Luck

I am referring to the clutch master cylinder located in the the clutch pedal array, the old 911 manuals (84-89) had measurements and such you had to set the master cylinders up to match before reinstalling, I can't believe Porsche left out of their manual how to replace the thing, unless it now self adjusts. In the pedal R&R section of the manual I have it does not discuss what to do if you have to disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the hydraulic system, I assume you have to first pinch the hose, or drain the brake fluid reservoir, then disconnect....I could measure the one that is broken to see if their is any adjustment on it, and then reconnect, but seems like a lot of guess work.

Vman

The Bentley Boxster Service Manual describes the clutch master cylinder R&R. I assume the procedure for the 996 would be the same. It's pretty simple: 1) Drain brake fluid reservoir. 2) Disconnect fluid supply line and line to slave cylinder (done from front of firewall, next to battery). 3) Remove clutch rod retaining pin from clutch pedal. 4) Remove master cylinder mounting bolts, slide master cylinder down and out. 5) Re-install, refill reservoir and bleed clutch hydraulics. There doesn't seem to be any adjustment required.

Thanks that is helpful

I need to replace my Clutch Master Cylinder, I don't see a DIY on that one and the old workshop manual only shows how to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Please Help.

VMAN

If you are takling about the one on the tranny it's easy just remove hydraulic line then the 2 bolts holding it on the tranny (from back of car it will be 2 Oclock position right side) pull out then replace new one and reconnect every thing and rebleed by following instruction in the brake bleeding DIY section. Good Luck

I am referring to the clutch master cylinder located in the the clutch pedal array, the old 911 manuals (84-89) had measurements and such you had to set the master cylinders up to match before reinstalling, I can't believe Porsche left out of their manual how to replace the thing, unless it now self adjusts. In the pedal R&R section of the manual I have it does not discuss what to do if you have to disconnect the clutch master cylinder from the hydraulic system, I assume you have to first pinch the hose, or drain the brake fluid reservoir, then disconnect....I could measure the one that is broken to see if their is any adjustment on it, and then reconnect, but seems like a lot of guess work.

Vman

I need to replace my Clutch Master Cylinder, I don't see a DIY on that one and the old workshop manual only shows how to replace the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Please Help.

VMAN

The 99's had a problem with the clutch release lever. If you did not replace it with the new design, that is very likely your problem. It get's hung up at times, especially on quick clutch engagement. There is a TSB covering this. The TSB decribes it as a noise problem only so Porshe did not have to issue a recall.

Clutch can be changed without dropping engine.

I also don't understand why on earth you would install an unsprung clutch kit on the 996. You sure are placing alot of unecessary stress on various componants for no reason.

The car has a new 400 hp 3.8 x51 motor so we needed to upgrade to a stronger clutch, we went with unsprung and full face organic as sachs told us with the flex in the drivetrian inheirant in 99-2000 car's we should be fine. I will ask about the lever thanks.

"Flex in the drivetrain"???????? Just what exactly flexes in the drivetrain that is NOT bad for the drivetrain? When you pull it apart again, throw in a sprung disc and save your bearings. 400hp is hardly too much for the stock clutch setup.

Do you have the TSB for the clutch problem? Also does anyone have instructions for replacing the clutch master cylinder?