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Vman

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Posts posted by Vman

  1. I am getting the car ready for autox, I just had a PSS9 kit installed, huge difference, but have 4 points left to spend in the class I am going to run. The choices are

    1) GT-3 Sway bars (2 points) and Pirelli Corsa DOT 60 or Michelin Pilot Sport Cup tires DOT 80 (2 points) in 225 Front 265 Rear (stock size)

    or

    2) Skip the Sway Bars and get bigger wheels and tires 235 F 295 R (4 points) and run regular Dot 220 street tires ie. Michelin Pilot Sport PS2.

    I am on the fence as a newbie driver some have said less to think about is better ie. worry about adjusting the shocks and get big street rubber on the car as it is more predictable than the stickier pilot sport cup tires or Corsa's. Does any one have any suggestions or have you tried the above setups?

    I will continue to use the car as a daily driver, however living in SD I am not worried about rain but am worried about soft compound tires picking up every nail on the highway.

    Thanks in advance.

    VMan

  2. I think you have go your maths wrong I'm afraid.

    When you add a tender spring you do not increase the spring rate, it is lowered unill the tender spring goes solid.

    Interested if Bilsein gave you the primary (combined) rate.

    Graham

    As stated I the numbers from the bilstein tech down in their factory which is in Poway, CA...if wrong well sorry, but usually I expect a factory suspension tech to have a clue, as I am no suspension expert.

    VMan

  3. On tire sizes, there is room for way more tire than is optimal for your car. I once ran 265/30/18 MPSCs on the front of my 996. I've also run 305s Hoosiers in back. That doesn't make it a good idea. I think the optimal tire combo is 245f - 285r. I think with MPSC you would have to settle for 235s in front.

    One of the great things about the 996 is that most all of the suspension components can be interchanged. I have cup car lower control arms, RSR adjustable rate springs, RSR/cup car rear tie rods, etc. Just make sure you understand what you are trying to achieve and how the parts you are adding are going to effect the performance of the car.

    Good luck.

    Jim

    Thanks Jim for the advice.

  4. can put on the stock 18 inch turbo wheels (factory is 225 front and 265 rear)....Also, if I buy new wheels what is the max 18 inch tires and wheels I can fit on the car? Ideally I would like to put a 235 or 245 up front and a 295 or bigger in the rear, but I don't want to hear a bunch of rubbing and scrucbng. Note - I will be running michelin pilot sport cups for the tire and the car will be lowered 30 mm front and 20mm rear. I have no aerodynamic kit on the car and would be willing ot have fenders rolled if need be.

    Also, has anyone tried to retrofit the GT-3 front camber plates to a 996?

    Thanks in advance.

    VMAN

    Do you mean the GT-3 front strut mount?

    Yes the top front strut mount, I am already going with GT-3 front control arums.

  5. can put on the stock 18 inch turbo wheels (factory is 225 front and 265 rear)....Also, if I buy new wheels what is the max 18 inch tires and wheels I can fit on the car? Ideally I would like to put a 235 or 245 up front and a 295 or bigger in the rear, but I don't want to hear a bunch of rubbing and scrucbng. Note - I will be running michelin pilot sport cups for the tire and the car will be lowered 30 mm front and 20mm rear. I have no aerodynamic kit on the car and would be willing ot have fenders rolled if need be.

    Also, has anyone tried to retrofit the GT-3 front camber plates to a 996?

    Thanks in advance.

    VMAN

  6. Gert did not have the information on the spring rates, but confirmed that the US and European PSS9 kits are the exact same product. Note - some feel the Euro kit is stiffer. Also, I have heard of some people rigging the GT-3 PSS9 on 1999 C2 996, but have not been able to get much information on this stuff. Note - 260 and 500 on the PSS9 kit sounds wrong as the GT-3 is sprung at 285 lbs front and 385 rear.

  7. Does anyone know the exact size, offset, and weights of the OE 18 inch wheel for the 99 C2?

    I think the size is 8x18 E52 For the front, don't know the weight

    Rear 10x 18 E65, don't know the weight.

    Thanks,

    Thanks for the info. On the owner manual....problem is I don't have an owner's manual the prior car's owner seemed to misplace it. I guess it is time for me to buy an owners manual so I don't ask anymore stupid questions.

  8. I don't think you give up anything with 19's as long as they're not heavier than the stock 18's.  Be careful of the weight, it makes a much bigger difference on wheels, more than just adding weight to the vehicle.  If the wheels are heavier, you will notice a loss of acceleration.  To get a very lightweight wheel that is also strong you will pay more.  There is a difference between a $2000 set and a $5000 set.  They also are more expensive because porsche has a unique bolt pattern and offset from any other make of car.

    It depends if you want bling or zing.. 19 inch are great looking, but almost every tuner/race shop I have spoken too has said do not put anything bigger than a 18 inch wheel on a 996, unless you want to really screw your suspension geometry. The wheel and tire size are calculated by Porsche when building the suspension geometry, in fact they are part of your car's suspension

  9. You can buy the ROW 30 kit from for about $1,000 mail order +$600 to install and align...check the 6speedonline forum for details, the ROW MO30 it is great deal for shocks, bars, and sway bars. You are correct in that it keeps you in the stock classl.

    I am on the bubble on this issue, as a properly setup 996 with JRZ's, camber plates and adjustible sway bars will cost around $6K installed and the value of your car is reduced as you can no longer sell it as stock.

    Cost aside, if you ever get into racing the car at porsche club races, you will be allowed to run in stock group C. even with the JRZ setup and you will be able to run one classs up in Autocross (depending on if you get the camber plates or not).

    Bottomline, for $6K you have a car that in the handling department can clean the clock around most course of a stock GT-3, as while you are down on ponies you have better handling.

    P.S. as soon as you can ditch those Dunlop tires, I had a set and they absolutely sucked compared the michelin pilots.

    Sorry, I have no knowledge of JRZ shocks but I too have a stock, daily driver US '99 996 coupe tip, 38K miles, non-M030, with 500-miles-new OEM Bilstein shocks. I have Dunlop SP9090s on factory 18's - 265/35 and 225/40.

      I recently took part in two Cal Club autocross events. Checked the ego at the gate luckily, since I got my clock cleaned.  The inherent weaknesses of my driving and the car were noticeable with standard suspension.  :drive:

      I am searching for information about potential suspension system upgrades that will keep the car in SK1 (Street tire with only factory suspension mod's).  If I went with the ROW M030 option, I'd stay in SK1 and I'd change shocks, springs, sway bars.  What was the cost difference between the JRZ shocks and the M030 option?  I believe the JRZ shocks like the PSS9 set-up would kick the car into A Stock, and I may end up there if the PSS9 or JRZ results in a better handling car without a huge penalty in terms of harshness or dollars.  Does the ROW M030 option you priced include shocks, springs, bars? It sounds like the JRZ system includes shocks and mounting hardware only.  Does the PSS9 system include springs, bars, and shocks?

      Any one of the above options will improve the handling.  Hopefully, time behind the wheel will help the driving skills.

  10. :) post-6119-1121030176_thumb.jpg

    Okay, I was a mouse click away from buying a ROW MO30 kit for my otherwise stock 99' C2, then I made the mistake of calling a couple of the race shops (TRG, TPC, etc.).

    Note - my car is going to be used as a daily driver with weekend autocross and track use at least once or twice a month. I don't care about how the car looks (anti-bling), I just want it to handle its best, as such I am sticking to stock 18 inch wheels and will not lower the car beyond ROW specs, even with coil over's. Note - 19 inch wheels and lowering beyond ROW spec , while looking great, has proven to cause handling problems, at least according the experts I have spoken too.

    So what's the new deal? JRZ, whom for years has created remote reservoir shocks for track use has come out with a new shock, the JRZ RS double adjustable, that has similar dampening characteristics to is double adjustable remote reservoir shock and does not require you to cut your car to install a remote reservoir. The shock can be ordered with a similar spring rate as GT-3 stock springs, so it won't kill you on the street. The a set of four shocks with mounting hardware for my car sells for $3,500.

    JRZ vs. PSS9 apparently the JRZ's can be dialed up to be much stiffer than the PSS9. In my driving of friends car's lowered with a PSS9 to ROW height vs. ROW MO30 kits, I did not find much of a difference in control, since I don't plan on slamming the car I was going to go with the ROW MO30 kit vs. the PSS9. Note - I have heard that with slicks the PSS9 kit becomes noticeably better than ROW MO30, but am as I am unlikley to run slicks this was not a factor for me.

    So what is my question?

    Does anyone have experience with JRZ products? Are these things going to blow up after 6 months of daily driving and make my life hell ( I don't have time to take this car to the shop every other week). Note - I realize they have no warranty, as they are race parts and am ready to selfinsure against that.

    Does anyone have any experience with this new JRZ RS shock? I hate to be the first one to take the leap of faith.

    SWay bars...I have read numerous posting about problems with GT-3 bars and the custom drop links needed to make them work with my 99' C2 ? What is the latest on that, in the alternative, what is the best sway bar upgrade, other than porsche bars, that has proven to work without problems on the street (clanks, clunks, or turn restrictions?)

    Thanks,

    VMAN

    P.S. I have attached a picture of the new shocks

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