pedefede

It was the Y-cable.

I have just ordered a new starter. Crossed fingers.

John

You could be right about the starter. I had it out 3 years ago and checked, when I had another starting problem which was a combination of a faulty battery and ground cable. At that time it was fine, but that is of little help now :-)

John

Thanks, only my wife makes me lists that long :-)

Checked voltage at engine bay. Aprox 12,5, guess it is ok after having used the battery for several starting attempts. Trying to jump start through the engine bay connection. No result. Cleaned battery terminals and grounding points. Can still not get into my head that it should be the starter or its connection hence the car was starting fine (excluding one incedent) before I swapped the battery. BTW tried with  the old battery. Still same result.

regards

John

Thanks, but what I do not get is that the car was running fine 2 days ago except for the small incident where it would not start. After that the car started every time. The only thing I did was to change the battery. I connected the battery to the battery of my other car to make sure it was not a faulty battery. So I was wondering if a immobilizer has been activated or the car has to reboot in some way.

John

Hi

After a winter with no charger on my battery I thought my motor sounded a bit weak when cranked the first weeks after the hibernation. Then I had one incident where the car would not start after a short ride. I left the car for 30 min and then it started. Ok so I thought I need a new battery. Yesterday I put the new battery in. Same battery type as before which has work excellent for years. There is power on all electrical systems but the car will not crank. I can hear the click from the starter. Checked the wire connection from the battery to the frame, which I have replaced 3-4 years ago. Looks fine. Any suggestions?

regards

John

Yes, but the case is that I never oiled the filter.

John

Hi

Know that this i a Classic, but may be some of you have the same symptons.

At kick Down my car would rev irregular arround 4k rpms and upwards. If I Applied the throttle more gently it would rev more regular. I have cleaned my MAF at least once every year, and each time the problem would get less but never disapear completely. For aprox 2 years I have been running a K&N airfilter and in that period the problems has gone worse. I have cleaned my throttle intake sevaral times.

Today I just have put in a new MAF and went back to a "normal" air filter. Now the cars runs perfect.

regards

John

What is hidden for the eye....I have just installed my Fister mufflers in velvet Black, which match the top and bottom of my engine. Beside the incredible sound of the mufflers, it is just so nice to know that I have matching colors in the engine bay   :rolleyes: I need professional help. :D

By the way, would there be any difference in the oil pressure at hot idle depending on if I use Mobil 0w40 compared to Motul 15w50?

John

Ok, I will try that - and thanks

John

My 99 cab runs on Motul 15w50 and it suddenly shows arround 1 bar of oil pressure at hot idle, comming from 1.8.

I am not loosing oil and the other readings seems normal. 3.5 bar at 2000 rpm and 4.5 at 3000 rpm.

Could this be caused by a bad oil pressure sensor or is it something else?

regards

John

Overhauled engine and now with new top with glass rear window instead of the original vinyl. Now it is about time to drive the car :drive:

John

It is their signature. They use the black powder coating for the top as well.

John

My engine went bust dec 30th and now I got my car back from Pomotec in Germany. Flew down early tueday morning and drove the car the 750km back to Denmark. It had a complete owerhaul and support systems like AOS, waterpump, Clutch, IMS etc has been changed. The bill was massive, but they gave me a 2 year warrenty on the engine with out a limit on kilometers driven, which I can extend after the 2 years to a 4 year warrenty for a small amount. The cyllinder block and liners was done by Capricorn in the UK. The coating is Nicasil.

Not to open a oil discussion, but the Pomotec guys are very much in favor of using Motul 300v 15w50 Competition. Their basic advice for a long life is very much i line with what is discussed here and goes like this:

• Use a good oil and check it often and change it every 10.000 km
• Check your water level often
• Do not drive the car beyound the rev limit
• Any warnings lights and you should stop the car at once.

They still have 40 cars at the workshop and one of the mechanics told me that he was going on his first vacation in 4 years this summer.

Bottom line. I am so happy to have my car back, and next week it will get a new top, so it better behave for many years now :drive:

Waiting for my car to get fixed I just needed to do something and ended up buying this top. Normally I keep everything original on my car but I just really liked the speedster look of this top in combination with a real glass window. (My vinyl window broke and I was chocked by the Price for the installation of a new one)

Comments are welcome

John

A few Pictures from the inside of my engine. You can see the cracked cyllinder linning.

So far so good. I need a bit of advice on what else I should change in a prioritised order, now I am giving the engine a complete overhaul?

regards

John

Just talked to the GM at Pomotec, hence I have not heard from them since my car arrived i Germany 3 weeks ago. The reason is that they have 36 engines in for an overhaul, so I am not the only one believing in their skills :huh:

John

3.4, yep lets see :eek:

Yep, coolant in cylinder 2. Possible crack in the block. The Car is going to Pomotec this weekend. Lets see what they say :huh:

I am still wondering if it was the aprox 0,75 liter that I topped up with from the low mark on the dip stick that killed the engine.

MLA was very helpfull but by my believes I can get better value by bringing the car to Germany. I hope I am right.

John

It seem like Pomotec has a very good reputation especially on pff.de.

John

When I stopped the car after 100 m the coolant looked fine, but I guess the coolant went into the oil, because of the bubbeling sound, the massive overfill when I pulled the oil dip stick. On Friday the car is going to Porsche here in Copenhagen and the I get the verdict - I will be really drunk tonight :cursing:

Yesterday I contacted Pomotec in Germany and Autofarm in the UK to heare about getting the engine rebuild if it is really bad.

Happy new year

John

This morning I measured my oil level which was at the minimum, then refilled with aprox. 0,75 liter. When I tried to start the car just after It had a hard time to crank. When I got it going, I got White smoke and the engine warning light. Drove the car the 100 meters back to my house .and looked at the coolant which seemed ok, but air seemed trapped in the system - bubbeling sound. Now the car has been sitting for 3 hours and the coolant level has dropped so far that it is not readable and the dip stick and the Electronic indicator for the oil level indicate massive overfill.

Please help :huh:

......I guess it was the positive connection going to the starter and from there to a small black box (marked with a + sign) next to the right side of the throttle house. The alternator is a far as I know grounded through the mounting to the chassis, but as you can tell I am no expert - but my car is running :-)

John

That is the ironi, I do not know what it was. I could feel a cable connection and a nut in the dark, and I was turning desperate - so I gave it a turn, it moved a bit and now the car starts :-)

I feel like a skilled mechanic.

John