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Posts posted by Mr. Haney
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I don't think you should disconnect anything or worry about it. The Cayenne is designed for extreme gradients, exactly what you want to do.
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What is interesting to me is that the head bolts, the ex. cam sprocket, and the Intake cam adjuster all use the same exact m12-1.5x140 bolt. The head bolts end up at 22ft lbs with a final torque angle of 90°. The exhaust cam sprocket bolt ends up at 37ft lbs and 90° torque angle. And, the intake sprocket/adjuster bolt ends up at 37ft lbs with a whopping? 135° torque angle. How does the same bolt cover so much ground? These are stretch bolts and Porsche states that the head bolts can be reused. Porsche also states that the cam adjuster/sprocket bolts can be reused if the bolts and diamond washers are only loosened and not completely removed. Am I the only one that thinks there is no difference once it's been torqued and loosened?
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How can exhaust cam deviation be detected with anything? I don't see how this is possible with the available inputs/outputs. The dme has no way to see or calculate exhaust cam position. I think this is a software snafu with your diagnostic equipment.
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FWIW, I was able to find the correct information through Porsche @ their techinfo website. I had forgotten about this. Through this site you can access workshop manuals, tech info, etc. For 14$ I got an hour of unlimited document downloads.
Scoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooore!
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Good morning,
I am getting ready to assemble my 4.5 Cayenne engine. The FSM I have has some conflicting/confusing specs. In the section where the torque specs for everything engine related is located it gives a different angle for the inner main bolts versus the section where it goes into assembly. One place says 75° final and the other says 56° final for the inner mains.
For the head bolts it shows first to go 22ft.lbs. and then 37, then loosen and then to go 22, 22, with final angle of 90°. I feel like there's a misprint or some words missing here.
Can anyone confirm what the specs you have listed are. By the way my FSM is labeled from automotive_manuals.ne(t). It's a pretty good manual but I have noticed some things placed in the wrong sections and pictures/descriptions that don't jive with the workflow. Probably how they cobbled it together.
I would post the sections here for reference but my internet is out at the house. Thanks in advance!
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Meaning that it just checks the systems before you start it? If I put the PIWIS in simulation mode and activate the function it just basically does its thing in the background and then says to start the engine. No way to know what the tester is doing during that screen. Who knows.....
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Anybody know what this does? PIWIS 2 / DME / Special functions / First start
I'm about to fire up a new engine and I'm just curious what this function actually does.
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To all those that are asking, I feel a duty to say this-
If it just so happens that the pipes leak while your driving, and just enough to drain the system in oh say......10 min, if the coolant doesnt gush out and create a lot of steam you may not know. The coolant guage sender once uncovered by running coolant is NOT going to tell you your overheating. You wont know that it has happened until the engine is WAYYY overheated and then its too late. Keep in mind that not all engine designs allow for milling of the heads, i'm not sure about the Porsche 4.5l. Even so if you did mill them you are increasing the compression and changing the squish in the head design. If you had to mill the block too that would be a nightmare. You may as well just buy a take out engine. When an engine gets overheated like that it can change the metalurgy of different parts, and even if you get it running well, they are NEVER the same. It destroys your oil, can warp valves and their seats, gall bearings, its just not worth it.
I bought my 04 with the pipes already done electively by the first owner. I suggest everyone who is contemplating whether or not to do them, to find the means and be pro-active about it. If you order the parts youself from sunset and pay an indy shop to do it, you could still come in around 1k. Thats cheap insurance. From all the posts here and there its quite obvious that it is GOING TO happen.
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I get this fault, seems like after its been idling. I get the fault second time now in 1 week. I have cleared them via the scanner. I drove the vehicle home for 1100 miles after I bought it and the code didnt show up for two days after I got it here. Could this be related to a pcv valve? I really need help with this one I dont have a manual yet, could anybody provide a workflow for this? Thanks-
P0492 Secondary air injection system, bank 2 - below limit
Possible causes:
- Fuse F4 faulty
- Open circuit to secondary air injection pump
- Short circuit to ground in the lead to the secondary air injection pump
- Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty
- Secondary air valve sluggish
- Secondary air injection pump (air cleaner) blocked
- Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or is crushed
- Secondary air injection pump faulty / stuck
Hey thanks Loren- maybe you could help with a couple other q's? I keep blowing fuse #4.
1. If I apply 12v to the air pump itself, should it run?
2. Which air pump is fuse #4-40amp, in the underhood fuse comp. linked to? Pass. or drivers side?
3. What do relays 19&20 in the underhood fuse comp. link to?
4. I have continuity and 0 ohms resistance on the drivers side air pump, the only one I messed with.
5. Do you know where the air pump ground goes?
6. Are the air pumps ac or dc?
7. Does the air pump relay function by providing a ground to complete the curcuit or by applying power?
8. What condition tells the computer to run the air pumps?
I know this is a laundry list of q's so, I thank anyone who can help in advance as I'm kinda tapped out money wise right at the moment. I just picked up the vehicle and have all those expenses.:)
Perhaps you would consider a donation to this site?
Yes, absolutely, thank you!!!!
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I get this fault, seems like after its been idling. I get the fault second time now in 1 week. I have cleared them via the scanner. I drove the vehicle home for 1100 miles after I bought it and the code didnt show up for two days after I got it here. Could this be related to a pcv valve? I really need help with this one I dont have a manual yet, could anybody provide a workflow for this? Thanks-
P0492 Secondary air injection system, bank 2 - below limit
Possible causes:
- Fuse F4 faulty
- Open circuit to secondary air injection pump
- Short circuit to ground in the lead to the secondary air injection pump
- Secondary air injection pump relay mechanically faulty
- Secondary air valve sluggish
- Secondary air injection pump (air cleaner) blocked
- Air hose to secondary air injection pump slipped off or is crushed
- Secondary air injection pump faulty / stuck
Hey thanks Loren- maybe you could help with a couple other q's? I keep blowing fuse #4.
1. If I apply 12v to the air pump itself, should it run?
2. Which air pump is fuse #4-40amp, in the underhood fuse comp. linked to? Pass. or drivers side?
3. What do relays 19&20 in the underhood fuse comp. link to?
4. I have continuity and 0 ohms resistance on the drivers side air pump, the only one I messed with.
5. Do you know where the air pump ground goes?
6. Are the air pumps ac or dc?
7. Does the air pump relay function by providing a ground to complete the curcuit or by applying power?
8. What condition tells the computer to run the air pumps?
I know this is a laundry list of q's so, I thank anyone who can help in advance as I'm kinda tapped out money wise right at the moment. I just picked up the vehicle and have all those expenses.:)
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0492 can be coils related
Elaborate please! Personal experience? I havent had it come back, but I havent gotten into the coils for a crack check either-
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Thanks a million Loren! Fuse F4 was blown, now to find the cause......
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I get this fault, seems like after its been idling. I get the fault second time now in 1 week. I have cleared them via the scanner. I drove the vehicle home for 1100 miles after I bought it and the code didnt show up for two days after I got it here. Could this be related to a pcv valve? I really need help with this one I dont have a manual yet, could anybody provide a workflow for this? Thanks-
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Do not drive the vehicle if the check engine light is flashing. You really need to find the cause of your faults.
I was under the impression the check engine light only related to emissions performance codes? Doesnt the dash warning display deal with engine performance related malfunctions? I got a CEL for no reason at all this morn. and the vehicle was running superbly. I removed and re-tightened the gas cap and pulled fuses 9,10,11,& 15 in the underhood fuse panel. It went away and never came back-
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Your right- sometimes my laziness gets the better of me:)Thanks
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I always use a tool that connects to the battery and absorbs any surges from the welder to protect the vehicle electronics.
So prob not a good idea without that eh?
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I just got the new cayenne home and noticed it has a broken hanger that needs to be tacked up. Do I need to take the exhaust off the car to have that done? Welding on the vehicle safe for electronics?
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this same thing happened to me 4months ago 04TT. Drivers side blew. drove it home Carona to Long Beach 40miles, A little bouncy but it had enough support from the pass side to support it. the air pump shut off after a few mins. That sucks others are having the same issue. And see the second pic, I did not cut that metal casing. It blew and just with the air pressure, it totally shredded it in half like a tin can
Were you able to get a used part or did you have to buy a new one? Do you mind if I ask the price, parts & labor to replace?
Tim in Ft Worth
'04 TT
I bought new parts from sunset. Used is not worth it to me becasue its still expensive and the air bag might fail the same way. I did not buy the whole strut, just the air bag portion. I actually did the install myself took me six hours. I had no knowledge of Porsches but I have taken apart previous struts. this one is very hard tho. Got stuck about 5 times trying to figure out how to take things apart. Im not sure, dealer might charge 4 hours? 4 x $120= $580+ for labor maybe. I think a brand new strut+bag assembly was like $900 from Sunset. This is all you really need. This is what i bought from Sunset for an '04 turbo:
955 358 403 31 Air Springs$341.23955 358 725 00 Clamp$3.83955 343 505 10 Bellows$9.86N 910 956 01 Top O ring seal$1.64N 904 324 02 Bottom O ring$5.30Shipping $14.60
Total $376.46
I know its too late to take pics, but would you please do a brief writeup on how it goes? Maybe points of interest, lessons learned? Its nice to know that the bag and parts are available to rebuild one yourself. Thank you for sharing all the part #'s.
Cayenne Turbo boost gauge
in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Posted
I see that many people think that they should see a specific boost level in the Cayenne depending on which version/tune they have.
This is not the case. The Motronic 7.1.1 DME is a torque/load based system in which the DME is always trying to achieve a torque request target. There are boost tables that have preset limits based on what the manufacturer/tuner knows is safe for the engine combo. However, the short answer is that with so many variable on a day to day and region to region basis, boost levels will vary to hit the requested torque in any given situation- to a limit. With that being said, there are many variables that can affect boost pressure aside from requested torque.