DaveCarrera4S

Anybody jumpered out the microswitches if you've put on a fixed wing or the ebay fixed shafts on a stock wing?  I've read that some have installed the GT2 back lid loom.  But that just omits or jumpers the microswitch wires.  The same mod could be done to the OEM TT loom.  Looking for the logic of the microswitches:  I would assume wing down would be closed for the lower switch and open for the upper.  Wing up would be the opposite, or open for the lower switch and closed for the upper.  The onboard computer is looking for these signals once the hydraulic pump motor is activated.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

There was a lot of discussion on this subject over at 6speed.  the upshot is that the front tires should be slightly larger than rear.  This keeps power flowing to the front, and it was stated that this is how the car came from the factory.  (Can someone confirm factory tire sizes??)  If the rear tires are larger diameter, torque flows from the front, or causes a slight drag on the VC.  None of this is likely to cause any problem to the VC.  So in the end, try to have the fronts slightly larger than the rears.

I used channel locks wrapped in painter tape, worked fine.

Went for a two day track event and brake wear lights came on. At home, I removed each wheel and checked the sensors. Right front sensor inserts were cooked, but intact, plastic had softened and rehardened. I replaced that one and checked all others for continuity, all were fine. Yet idiot light still on. Any suggestions?

Dave

Update, fluid all over ground from the right ram, spoiler extends half way on that side now, so I know the seals are shot. Need to finish the motorized ram project I've started. It will be lower cost than replacing the silly hydraulic system, and remain fully functional.

I see. So if my switch acts strangely, it might be the electronics? I did swap the switch with my C4S, and no change. I have to press it different ways to make it work. In other words just momentarily pushing the center button does not flip up the lid, have to hold one of the other rockers after jogging the roof motor. It works, but not as advertised in the owners manual.

I've never explored the relay panel for my C4S or TT.  Where would I find the relay or relays for the sliding roof, and what are their positions on the block and identification numbers?

Realize I'm digging up the past, but this info is great! Glad I searched. I've installed H&R springs, and I'm guessing without measuring that I'm about 1 1/2 inches lower. Will hand these specs over to tech next week for 4 corner alignment.

That is bad luck. My TT has performed flawlessly since purchase in May. Luck of the draw?

There are many threads dealing with this topic, if not here the other two forums. Also check the 996 forum.

Removed non functional spoiler system. Motor not turning using a battery charger. Pried out brush end assembly from motor, found one brush had seized up with a black tar like material. Pried out the brush cleaned off the hard reside, and got the brush sliding in and out of its holder again. Motor then spun. Next filled pump reservoirs to overflow, pistons retracted, with PS stop leak, same with rams. After a few cycles along with topping up, rams seemed to function fine. Installed on car and it works as designed. No telling how long it has been broken, as I bought the car this way. Take care with the microswitches. I had one pop off then pop apart. Was like fine surgery to get it back together, very delicate.

If you're running 19" wheels, that's the culprit.

Reassembled, and it all works for the cost of a bottle of PS Stop Leak (about $6). How cool is that? To be fair, it took about 4 hours on and off, and I did surface scratch the rear cowl opposite the wiper, should have put a towel down like I did when I removed the spoiler assembly...stupid...lucky for me it pretty much buffed out.

Performance filters use oil to help trap dirt, which I've heard can foul the MFAS.

Thank you Loren, should have gone to you first! I only see one micro switch though???

I'm searching for an online electrical diagram for the Turbo rear spoiler - specifically '02 model. But other years should be similar or same. Any and all help appreciated!

Wasn't the idler bearings. Rough sounding clacking at hot idle. Goes away above 1100 rpm. Does sound fine cold. Changed oil, much less severe.

Just fixed my motor today. Had to pop off the end and one of the brushes had frozen up. Cleaned it all up, reassembled and worked like a charm. Filled all pistons with power steering stop leak undilluted. No telling how long it's been since the wing actually worked! Will reassemble on the car tomorrow.

Yep, install onto intake plenum vertically, right end up, then rotate down 90 degrees and seat into aforementioned grommets.

Michael did you ever get it working? I bought my TT with known wing inoperation. Started tearing into it today...bad motor I think.

Or try http://cabriolethydraulics.com/index.php. Good luck!

My indie was able to program a new key using his Autologic tool. Of the two codes needed to program the key, the shop did need to get the car code from a dealer. I've kept a copy of the car doce for future reference. BTW: It takes 15 monutes or less to program the key.

I see Pelican has the blanks and the Carrera GT 2-button head. Total cost is around $196. This is without any programming. Not sure what the dealer would charge just for the programming. $500 seems outrageous for a programmed key. Must be another way...

I took my new to me 2002 stock Turbo in for a Tech inspection prior to a track day coming up next week. As soon as the tech drove it into the garage, we both noticed a loud ticking/grinding sort of noise coming from the engine. I imagined a timing chain or valve train catastrophe about to happen. After diagnosis by two mechanics with stethoscopes, the verdict was the idler pulley bearing(s) are about to go. It does sort of sound like a bad bearing, and seemed to get worse just running for some minutes on the lift. It clearly is coming from the center of the engine (left to right) and the back side. It comes apart Monday.

I did get full records with the car, and 1.8 years / 1100 miles ago, all 3 idlers were replace. Is this something to expect - seems like an awfully short time to be replacing the idler(s) again. What might be causing the problem here??

Mine is foaming at the circlip and the protective cap is or was wet, so I know it leaked out. Will attempt the refill procedure in a couple weeks.