Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

racerden

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    31
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by racerden

  1. I need some input. I put Hawk HPS pads on new rotors and I am totally unhappy with them.

    I want to go to Pagid Orange pads on my 996. The question is now that the Hawk pads are bedded to the rotors what is the procedure for removing that layer of (Hawk HPS) material so that I can bed in the new Pagids?

    There are ~ 600 miles on these rotors and I do not want to live with the pads but I don't want to lay an incompatible film on top of the film currently on the rotors and create a judder in my brakes.

    I certainly don't want to replace rotors.

    Will brake cleaner suffice?

    Will the more abrasive Pagid pads scrub off the Hawk pad material?

    I appreciate the advice.

    Gosh, I know, I know, what was I thinking???

    Thanks,

    Scott

    Although I am not aware of the pad compositions, conventional wisdom dictates you do not need to worry about incompatable film from the previous pads. Here at my dealership (GM) we encounter this situation often when customers have cheap pads installed elsewhere and just need some OEM's. After the burnish process, things work just fine. FYI, clean the rotors with a good detergent & hot water using some steel wool during the process. Many brake cleaners have petroleium based solvents.

    Hope it helps,

    Denny

    • Upvote 1
  2. Depending upon the ambient conditions, with a 160F stat in your M96 and in “steady state” driving (open road, constant speed); you will be running in the mid 170’s to perhaps low 180’s, so your concerns about it being too cool are unfounded. Remember that the stat controls the minimum operating temperature, thereby lowering the steady state temp. With the 160 stat in place, in heavy traffic you will still heat up enough for the fans to kick in, but when you get moving again the temp will drop back to a lower steady state condition. Two things to also consider; Porsche uses a 160 stat in some their high end engines from the factory, and your OEM stat starts to open in the low 180’s, but is not fully open until well over 200F (the dash gauges in these cars are both inaccurate and non-linear), and you are probably running in the 210F and up range at steady state currently.

    Thanks JFP. Understood about the heavy traffic business; an open thermo is 'an open thermo' no matter what the coolant temp. And i figured the analog gage was just that; analog. One request please:

    Being a newbe to Renntech, I've tried to find the DIY on thermostat replacing using the search tab however, some direction w/be much appreciated. All I came up with was w/pump directions.

    Thanks again, the site is great!

  3. D, welcome...and congrats....there are several folks on here that are really really good and know their stuff. Loren is a great source of info as is JFP in Pa. There are many many others that can answer questions and help guide you. I have switched the stock 180 deg t-stat on our 98 986 to the 160 deg t-stat with great results along with the larger 'S' type oil cooler and it has made a nice difference when it's hot here in Pa in sumer driving. That being said there will be those that say it was engineered with a 180 deg t-stat dont change it. Our car has 95k miles on it and ANYTHING that will help with the wear and tear i.e. HEAT was something I was willing to try. So far it's been fantastic. L&N sells them and they are great to deal with and ask questions of. Ask on the site and you will get many replies. You will have to decide for yourself. The DIY is listed here for the swap as is the water pump. The trickiest part is bleeding the cooling system. There is a DIY for that as well with the tools needed to accomplish all that we've discussed. Let the learning FUN begin. These cars are a hoot to drive and care for but they do have their 'quirks'.

    Welcome aboard..

    m2

    Thanks for your welcome, it's very much appreciated. I live here in Los Angeles and frequently visit a vacation home in one of nearby deserts. I'm a GM Service Manager & Master Tech and know exactly what a lower T-stat can add especially over the life of a vehicle. And yes, I'm truly digging driving the Ultimate! Thanks again pal.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.