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iflyjets4u

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Everything posted by iflyjets4u

  1. iflyjets4u
    Did you notice any improvement?
  2. iflyjets4u
    I have struggled for some time with the rough idle on my car. Some of the techs have said that mine is worse than others, but all '99's are not smooth. I saw this post: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=3595, where the member had a problem with his car stalling at idle. In the post, Loren suggests that a carbon build-up in the throttle body was the problem. I checked out my throttle body, and found that it was fairly dirty. I cleaned out the throttle body, as suggested in the above thread and found a noticeable amount of improvement. Although it is not perfect it seems to be much better. Hope this helps some of you out there.
  3. iflyjets4u
    While at the local dealer last week, I was told that the throttle on my '99 996 did not open fully and that the problem was with the "gas pedal box". This box, under the gas pedal evidently turns the linear motion of the pedal into a pulling motion on the throttle cable. Does anyone know how to adjust this? There is about 1/2" to 3/4" of pedal depression before it feels like anything happens. The dealer wants around $500.00 to replace it. Any ideas?
  4. iflyjets4u
    While at the local dealer last week, I was told that the throttle on my '99 996 did not open fully and that the problem was with the "gas pedal box". This box, under the gas pedal evidently turns the linear motion of the pedal into a pulling motion on the throttle cable. Does anyone know how to adjust this? There is about 1/2" to 3/4" of pedal depression before it feels like anything happens. The dealer wants around $500.00 to replace it. Any ideas?
  5. iflyjets4u
    Jimmy Q: Thanks, I'll check the cable as you suggested, but I think I'll let the dealer sort this one out.
  6. iflyjets4u
    Loren: It is a C2, sorry not to mention. How is it adjusted? Thanks
  7. iflyjets4u
    My '99 996 was at the dealer recently. They told me the throttle did not open all the way. Does anyone know if that is a dealer-only adjustment? If not, how do you make sure you are getting a wide open throttle with full pedal? Thanks in advance.
  8. iflyjets4u
    Went for a little ride last night in my 1999 Carrera. About a mile into my fun, the engine started to run rough, the check engine light flashed and then.....nothing. Tried to restart - ran for about 300 feet, then....again nothing. Gauge showed 1/4 full, good battery volts, engine cranked normal, but would not start. Hmmm... Towed it home. This morning, called to make an appointment with the dealer. I described the symptoms to the Tech. He told me that there are some of the fuel gauge sending units that have been giving erroneous readings. He asked me if the trip O/D looked normal. I told him it looked like I was getting really good mileage on the most recent tank. Bottom line, put about two gallons in and...varoom. Works great. Moral is: if the trip O/D looks more than normal, probably bad sending unit. Have fun.
  9. iflyjets4u
    Thanks guy. I did let it drain for about an hour, so that may be part of the issue. Previously I did often check the levels on the gauge in the garage when the car was cold. Garage is pretty flat and level, but I did not compare the gauge readings to the dipstick ever. Interestingly, before the oil change (which may have been an overfilled condition) I heard what sounded like lifter noise for a few minutes on cold start-up. Now, with the oil level correct (mid way) on the stick, no noise. Go figure.
  10. iflyjets4u
    Just changed my oil myself for the first time. Book says about 8.7 qts. with filter. How come it took 9.5 to get to the bottom of the mark on the dipstick and the gauge? Don't want to overfill, but before this oil change, the gauge always went to the top when checked before startup. Any help would be appreciated.
  11. iflyjets4u
    Anybody know where to get the Oil Filter Wrench referenced in Loren's DIY in the San Diego area?
  12. iflyjets4u
    Thanks for the info. The new thickness helps.
  13. iflyjets4u
    Just got told by the shop that it's going to be brake time soon on my '99 996 with about 46,000 miles. The brake light is not on and I was curious just how soon, so... I pulled off a front and back wheel and measured the thickness of the pads between the rotor and caliper with a vernier caliper the best I could. The front is about 5.5mm total width and the rear is about 6.7mm. According to Loren's DIY on the brake pad change, the minimum residual thickness should not be less than 2mm. Am I doing this right, or not? How long should I wait before I have them changed? Thanks for any input.
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