iflyjets4u

This will be my first time for the oil change in this model. Any issues removing the underbody panel? Torque for fasteners when reinstalling?

Thanks!

My '99 996 was wrecked in June of 2007 right after I had put a new motor in it (66,000 miles). Didn't replace the car at that time.

Thinking about getting another one now and was reading some of the posts about reliability. Do almost all of them blow up eventually?

If not, any opinions as to which of the years are better? Was there a year when significant improvements/changes were made?

Thanks to all that reply! Happy New Year!

Well, just got back from a nice three week Europe and Middle East trip. Hadn't drove my Porsche for a while and seeing how it was a nice day, I thought I'd take it out for a spin. After getting my coffee and donut, I was driving along one of the major streets just entering an intersection when an 85 yr. old fellow, that should have quite driving years ago, pulled out in front of me at an intersection (my green, his red) and this was the result.

He told the cops he didn't even know there was a light there. I'm soooo glad I just spent $12,000 on a new motor, $1,500 on a new clutch and $1,200 on new tires. And oh yeah, I'd just washed it too. I guess I could have been on my Harley.......

Obviously, I'm really bummed, but no one was hurt. It's only stuff, right? Towed it to the shop where they said there is so much frame/unitbody damage that it will be a total.

Now comes the fun part. The car, a '99 Carrerra with around 68,000 miles was near perfect. And a brand new engine with warranty to boot. Knowing that the other driver's insurance company has to put me in an "equal" car, I need to get more than just Blue Book, in consideration for the new motor and warranty

Does anybody have any ideas how to maximize my position in this?

On my '99 Carrera, if recently noticed when I start the car up, most or all of the airflow seems to come from the footwells. After a few seconds, the airflow ceases from the footwell and comes out the vents as normal. The climate setting is Auto with the a/c off and the fan on manuell at +/- level 2.

Is the system vacuum controlled? Would this indicate a vacuum leak of some kind?

Don't just start prying away. First you must remove the two oval shaped pieces of plastic by the map lights. They do indeed pry out. You will find a screw inside each of those, which must be removed first, then the piece will unclip.

Mine broke a while back. Got the new one from Sunset and all is well. They did send the wrong one first. The first one was much shorter and did not have the hole for the sunroof switch. Good luck

Well, my heart goes out to you. I just had mine give up a month ago at 66,200 miles. Seems like the same issues, lots of metal in the oil, sounds coming from the engine compartment like bolts in a coffee can. I can't believe this could happen to such a "high end" car. My last Porsche, an '88, had over 90k on it when I sold it, still going strong at that time. Anyway...

I went to Pioneer Porsche, got the Porsche Club discount on the engine, which ended up being $8793.19. (Even if your not a member the member ship fee is way less than the discount!!) Labor was $1598.40, for a total of $10564.32, including the incidentals. For me, there way no way I was going anywhere else but the dealer, as I want someone to "own it" if there are more problems. I was p/o'd enough already.

Like you, I was thinking it would be nice if I was paying all this money to pay a little more and get the best. Didn't seem like it would work for me though, and proceeded as above.

Good luck, with your choices.

Okay, so now I have the factory remanufactured motor in my car, new clutch, new radiator tank, much lighter wallet.

The dealer tells me I need the new ignition switch as well. I guess I knew that because if I didn't turn the key slightly back to the left after I started the car, the heater wouldn't work. Their estimate for the repair is around $400.00

I've read the various posts on the ignition switch replacement. Guess, I'm not clear as to what the real status is regarding replacing just the switch or the entire locking mechanism. Many of the posts are now several years old, so I am unclear as to what the current best practice is.

So my questions are:

1. Can the switch only be replaced, or does one have to get the entire locking assembly/switch combo?

2. If the switch only can be replaced, can the Audi switch be used without complication?

3. Does anyone know the current correct part number for the switch?

Thanks.

this is a somwhat common problem with 996 motor.

crankshaft gone back. according to someone else had the same problem before, motor sounds like a coins in the dryer....

new motor from porsche is the best way to go, at least, in US. i just heard PCNA increased the price on rebuilded motor dramaticlly. is it true?

where u get your new motor from? thanks

I have the coins noise coming from the transmission area for quite sometime now, maybe about 5 months, it's that the sound you are talking about.

That sounds similar. Have you checked for metal in the oil? Whatever mine was, looking back, I think I was hearing the sound intermittantly before the big kaboom.

Well, the car goes to the dealer today for the engine replacement. Thanks to all for their comments.

After all, its only money......

See my recent post. I just had mine go at 66000 miles. Looks like around $12,500 for the replacement.

The price of $9,305 plus tax and $1,344 to install is for a remanufactured Porsche engine, which I understand comes with a 24 month warranty.

The shop that is quoting the price is offering a 24 month no maximum miles guarantee.

Got a price from the dealer today. With Porsche Club discount the motor is $8,831 plus tax and $1,700 for installation. After comparing the two, it looks as if the total costs come out nearly the same.

Probably should go with the Dealer...

Any thoughts?

Got an estimate today, for a "new" engine, $9,305 plus tax and $1,344 to install plus fluids and misc.

Loren, if you have time, what do you think?

Went down to the tire store the other day in my '99 996 for a nice new set of Michelin Pilot Sports. Afterwards, as I was pulling into the garage at home I was greeted by a sound that was very similar to a bunch of bolts rattling around in a coffee can at about the same speed as my engine. Not good. Car has always run well, never tracked, lots of care and only 66,000 miles.

Went to the local (good) independent Porsche repair shop and was told it was a bad throw-out bearing. Breathed a sigh of relief. Said OK, fix it plus a new disk and pressure plate, release arm, etc. Then they called me the next day and said that, OOPS, it wasn't the clutch after all, motor still making the same noise. Plus there's a fair amount metal in the oil. Not good, since I just changed the oil less than 100 miles before this happened. They took the polyrib belt off, ran it without the tranny installed, same noise. So basically, whatever is making the noise in inside the cases.

So, this is all new to me, they said that the best thing to do is yank the engine out and put in a new one! Now that's some in-depth trouble-shooting...

Checked around and found out that most of the time, it is cheaper to install a new 0-mile/time engine than do the rebuild.

Tomorrow's the big day, they're going to drop the bottom covers off and see if there's anything obvious, if not, they only alternative is the new engine.

So, what do you think? Also, do you think I should have to pay for the mis-diagnosis as well.

Watch out if you use 44 psi for the rears. My '99 996 has Continentals on it and were experiencing rapid center wear with that high of a pressure. 38 psi still seems to show more wear, but like the previous member said, the rims are at risk with much less.

I've used the Mobil 1 factory fill for five years, living in Southern California, so similar climate. No issues.

Not sure. The instructions say that it's not made for "running" any accessories, lights, etc. But it might.

I re-located my emergency cable so that I can acces it through the towing hook.

Had to change out my battery today and didn't want to have to re-program everything. I also don't have a cigarette lighter charger. Found this at Pep Boys for $11.00. Worked great. Just hook up a 9V Battery and that's all there is to it.

You should also talk to your insurance agent, especally if you have a relationship with him/her about getting you the settlement you need. Don't try to go it alone. The insurance companies have to deal with potential "bad faith" issues if they do not represent you in strict accordance with your policy. Unfortunately, it probably reads "repair or replace" at their discretion.

However, in this case, its not their money, but the money of the other driver that is the issue. Strongly (but nicely, at least at first) insist that they go after a higher settlement from the other insureds company. Press the issue as necessary after.

Lastly, if you are in the financial position to do so, don't accept their settlement offer. Drive something else until you can get the settlement you want. Consider having a lawyer that is EXPERIENCED in INSURANCE CLAIMS ISSUES make a few calls, write a few letters, etc. You should NOT try to do this on your own. Someone (like your insurance company and the aforementioned lawyer) will know better how to get you closer to where you need to be.

Hope this helps. Keep us all posted if possible.

I'd go back and see the guy that put the motor in, or you may be on your way to number 3.

Thanks, I'll give that a try.

Any pictures or diagrams available?

Has anyone had experience with the spoiler not retracting smoothly? I ran mine up and down the other day when I was washing it and noticed that it almost acted like there were some bad gears or something in one of the extension tubes.

Any comments would be appreciated.

...  You might also remove the idle control valve on the left side of the throttlebody and spray the inside valve with carb cleaner.  It gets sticky sometimes.

I have a similar problem, do you have a picture of the valve you are talking about, and maybe some step by step comments? I'd like to try it, but would like some guidance.

Thanks.

I also have a '99. A couple of years ago I had a similar problem, but it mostly didn't work unless I was up close. Bought a new key.....problem solved.

It looks like I'll need a cover for my '99 996 soon. Has anyone had experience with an all-weather cover with a paint-friendly inside that is better than the ones offered by Porsche?

Thanks in advance for your response

I tried what you suggested, in second and third gears, but I don't feel like the "afterburners" kicked in. Is there a chance that the power change could happen smoothly?

I'm curious because I seem to have developed an oil leak on the right hand side, near where the sensor is.

Lastly, is there any other way to tell if the cam "switches"?

Thanks