Rapewta

Logray...

What you suggested is true.

While that is the correct repair to his rough idle, I had the same problem only from 600 to 700 rpm. It was searching.

I did a "search" here and tried the 'clean the throttle body with carb cleaner" and my car stopped doing it.

I also cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner. Don't know if that had anything to do with it but it didn't hurt.

I have a suggestion. Pick up an OBDII reader (the $75.00 one) at the local auto parts store.

Clear the CEL. Sounds like you might already have the OBDII because you pulled the fault codes.

The same code came up on my car shortly after I got it. I cleared it (twice) and it has never came back.

I realize this is not the correct way to take care of your car but sometimes you will get spurious CELs.

Changing your oil has nothing to do with it.

That rubber squeaky sound when you turn the water pump is normal. Mine did the same thing. I did the poor mans flush on the system, I.E. I removed the drain plug and the bottom hoses. About two gallons came out. I replaced it with the Phosphate free

coolant and water about 50/50. Had to burp the system a few times to get the air out. I don't know why you are hearing some unusual sound now.

If all systems are running good, just keep enjoying the drive and maybe it will stop or you will locate it down the road. Watch the

gauges. Happy motoring.

Sorry about the double post. Can't delete it.

That rubber squeaky sound when you turn the water pump is normal. Mine did the same thing. I did the poor mans flush on the system, I.E. I removed the drain plug and the bottom hoses. About two gallons came out. I replaced it with the Phosphate free

coolant and water about 50/50. Had to burp the system a few times to get the air out. I don't know why you are hearing some unusual sound now.

If all systems are running good, just keep enjoying the drive and maybe it will stop or you will locate it down the road. Watch the

gauges. Happy motoring.

JeTexas...

Your DIY video helped me with the pump swap. You made it look eaiser than it was for me doing it.

I didn't take your advice and I too put in a Napa refurbished. I am broke and it was 1/2 the cost of an OEM.

Here is what is interesting... the original pump I took out had a machined milled surface and a metal gasket with no

sealer.

The rebuilt from Napa is not machined and has a softer, thicker (not cork) gasket. This means it needed some gasket sealer

or I am sure it would leak. Anyway, if it lasts a couple years, I will replace with an OEM. Thanks for the Video

Thank you sir.

Maybe I am losing my mechanics' touch because getting that pump out and off the car was

very difficult. Someone said it was a 6 out of 10 on the "difficult DIY". I give it an 8.

I can just imagine the certified Porsche mechanics reading these posts and laughing there

butts off. Yea... well keep laughing 'cause we weekend mechanics with the help of this web site

are doing it.

The DIY water pump replacement save my a$$. However, the only torque spec noted was for the

drain plug. Does anyone know what the 15mm nuts go down as and the seven 10 mm bolts for the pump itself?

One of the 10 mm bolts was a pure pain to get at. Now I know why the shops charge 5 hrs for

labor.

Well.. I hope you got it fixed. I couldn't (with stethascope) locate it so I took the car to an independent Porsche shop with

a good rep.( Frank's Automotive) Diagnose and report. It was the water pump. No leaks but it was the culprit. I drove the car home. While I am at it,

I am going to replace the idler pullys. 76K miles on the car and it is expected.. $300( me and parts) vs $1000( shop charge) I will try it on my own.

Dan...

I have the exact same symtom with 76k on the odometer. Just started about a week ago and was wondering... did you

sort it out? What was causing the "knock"?

Don

Somebody will know the answer to your hard start question. But I like hearing that you have 105,000 miles on

the odometer. Gives me hope. So far, I am driving everyday and no problems (big costly ones).

I reality, only 5% of the 145,000 M96.ox 996 engines have had the big breakdowns that we are constantly

reading about on Porche forums. Happy motoring!

Mintex are inexpensive and have the "brake-pad-sensor" holes in them. I use them. No noise.

I have no complaints.

Yea... you and a lot of patience and good advice got you through it. It is not easy for a first timer. I know.

You stuck with it and saved a ton of money if you'd taken (towed) it to the dealer. See... we can do anything if

we research it and put our skills to the test.

This website is a great tool to help us that are at the bottom of the food chain.

Glad you made it happen. Happy motoring.

Yea... I know the feeling. All I could come up with was 68mm offset rims. So, because I wanted some Phat

295's on a narrow body 996, I got a hold of Eric Vaughn and Vaughn Machine in Monrovia, California.

It doesn't matter if they are 17, 18, 19 or 20's, he will cut them and widen the rim.

If you aren't into the real agressive stance and spacers (plus longer lug nuts), I highly suggest you check him out. No fender rolling, camber adjustments, spring and coil changes.. etc.

I don't track but like the look of huge tires on a Carrera. Poser I guess. I just took pictures of the rear and

with the help of my wife... will show how awesome the car's stance looks when we figure it out.

Changing wheels and tire sizes (offsets/backspacing and diameter) is one of those risky calculations.

If they don't fit... you could be out a lot of dough.

I am glad it worked out for you.

I took a gamble and had some 17X9's with et 55mm widened to 17X10.5 et 74 mm for my NB 99 996.

They fit! No rubbing, no nothing. I went from 255/40's to 295/35's all going towards the center of the

car. I was sweating it out while they were being modified. Thankfully, things worked out fine for both of us.

Happy motoring.

I just did this DIY alternator removal. Once the two 14 or 15 mm bolts were removed, I could rotate the alternator off of it's supports. I didn't really understand the mallet tapping because the alternator started

moving little by little until I got it clear from the two brackets.

I really had to look at what I was trying to do as far as "how to get it free". I kept turning it until I

could see the only way it was going to come out of there. It will come out towards you once you can visably

see what rotation is required.

From what I am reading, it sounds like it won't start rotating? I did use "Aerokroil" on the threaded bushing for the long bolt on the right. I don't think I really needed to do it.

I hope you get it free and moving because once you do that, a lot of wiggling and it will position itself to come forward and out.

I had to do this just for replacing the oil filler tube. I didn't need that "special splined" tool because

I did not have to remove the alternator pully. Good luck.

A machine shop in Monrovia California (Vaughn Machine) widens or narrows your rims applicable to your needs.

Not many will do Alloys. He is best known for his work on Bonniville cars. I don't track and don't need larger

rotors so I had a hard time sticking to 17" rims that would take the 295.

Next week I should be receiving my custom wheels. I took the 17X9 et55's and had them stretched to a 74mm offset (17X10.5). The plan is for stretching the tires from 255/40's to 295/35's (same outside diameter). Now I am sweating it out because I can't find anyone that has done this. I am thinking they might rub on the inside of my 1999 C2 coupe.

I measured more than once and it is going to be close. Worst case, I can put 7mm spacers in but I don't want too.

Anybody know is 74mm will work?

The coil-packs have no moving parts. They work or they don't. Nothing to slowly start giving up.

They are just a lot of wire wound inside an a plastic capsel. I think one of the biggest problems causing

a break-down is over tightening the screws when mounting them. Heat also but they crack (plastic) when over tightened.

Save your hard earned cash and spend it at the reunion.

If you have never been to the Grand Canyon, go. On the North Rim there are cabins at Jacob's Lake. You can park you

car next to the cabin. Great food at the little resturant.

The Rim Width range for the 225/45R-17 is 7.00 to 8.50 inches.

Tire Rack specifies this on the invoice I received after ordering the new tires.

The Rim Width range for the 295/35R-17 is 10.00 to 11.50 inches, also noted on the invoice.

Well, that is a relief. Thanks. I didn't think going from a 205 to a 225 keeping the same 7" rim is a big physical

change.

The 17X11's are my old 17X9's widened by a machine shop is SoCal. Not many places do OEM factory porsche rims, so I had to

send them off in the mail.

Thanks for the info. I found the TSB on this site and basically I can achieve what I set out to do only

I have to calculate the tire profile for a 17" rim. Everything is in 18". Maybe I am just to "old school"

and like the 17" more than the larger rims.

If I keep the same front stock turbo twists that are 17X7 with a 55 mm offset and 205/50/17's... can I put a 225/45-17's on the rim with no

interference?

The rears are 17X9 with a 55 mm offset with 255/40-17's. I am replacing them with 17X11 et 81mm offset and 295/35-17's.

This is a 99 narrow body C2.

It is hard to be patient but I'd pass with that many miles. There will always be more P-cars for sale in the future.

Really try to get a 1 or 2 owner car when you do take the plunge. It is easier to track the cars history.