mcbit500

Has it changed for 2006? I do not have this filler door release button on the driver's door!

They changed the design to be unlocked when doors unlock, you have to press door in to open the latch

I wish that they hadn't, mine keeps opening in the car wash.

Removed comment as I just realised that the other thread I was looking at was started 2 years ago. :blush:

They won't have changed the VIN number though so it should be a US number.

But whether it's mono or not, the same servo controls the warm/cold mix.....it is possible the control sign is bad, but 99.99% of the time, it means one of the servos stuck or failed.

Absolutely, but its just another step in the process of elimination.

Try switching to MONO and see if you get the same end result.

Fortunately i'm now down to about 270 kms per week instead of per day.

Yes, its easy, the mesh divider locates into the slots on the back of the rear seats.

Same trip to work every day all highway at around 140kph in GTS (left) 05 turbo (right) last column is litres/100 km

Just can repeat what i wrote before. After i got new fuel pumps the results improved in many ways. Engine feels more strong and the liters per km dropped a lot . I just made a trip to belgium, some hundred of kilometers highway driving. Average speed between 120 and 160 km/h. Fuel consumption is until now 13,7 liters per 100 km

Is that computer or calculated? Its about what my computer says but its not what i get.

Any other tips for installation, please, like where I can get a key that fits the screws in the luggage tie!

Thanks in advance,

Andrew

Tesco's, Halfords............

The first summer I had my 05 CTT (Dubai/ Abu Dhabi 45+ deg C) it behaved normally as you described. The following summer it the needle started wandering up to the 3/4 mark on high speed or high boost driving. It continued to do this for the next 2 years which I owned and continues to do so with the new owner (a friend of mine). According to Porsche this is within the acceptable operating limits for the engine, in fact they go as far as to say that it is acceptable for the needle to go into the red provided that it comes down again when you reduce engine load.

One more thing which I noticed was that when I replaced the battery prior to passing on to the new owner, it damped the speed and amplitude of the temperature fluctuations so possibly a voltage influence also.

I need your help again please. The PSM Problems following me like a shadow. Again and again. Something must be wrong here. Always when PSM failure is on the display i take it to service. Sometimes its still possible to drive, sometimes the truck isnt even starting. Just shaking arround.

Porsche is checking the system by piwis to find out what is the reason.

1. time piwi show throttle body, the changed for new.

2. time piwi show lambda sensor, the changed for new.

3. time piwi show MAF sensors, the changed for new ones. Just 2 weeks ago.

Between i changed already 3 times the battery.

Now i have the same problem again. Today i had to drive somewhere. When i wanted to drive back and started the car...... same. Very bulky start. Not possible to drive.

I waited some minutes and tried again. Car was running.I could make it home but on the way back again PSM warning light.

Jesus what is this. If i take the car to porsche on monday piwi will show maybe some other stupid code which is again not the reason . I can not change part after part and problems still remain.

Maybe someone has an idea what the heck is going on here.

Thank you very much

Is there any change in the symptoms if you turn the PSM off?

My simple advice: if both cars are in you price range and you are not a speed demon, buy the 2011 S for the simple reason that it's newer.

You seem to want to spend a lot of money to provide a work around rather than solve the problem. I was under the impression that all 2003 V8s were supplied with dual batteries so you may want to confirm this before proceeding in another direction.

I'm experiencing shuddering while braking highway speeds. Just started about in June. So I bought some new front rotors. When I went to install the rotors I noticed that the current ones looked brand-new, and when I measured them with a caliper they are the same thickness almost as the brand-new rotors which have arrived from centric. Maybe it's the pads, or should I just do both and shut up?

I just can figure out why after two years I have shudder and the **** rotors are so close to new....

At a loss here.

You may also get shudder if there is play in any of the front suspension joints.

At 140kph on the highway I'd be expecting 15-16 l/100 km.

Could this be fuel pumps again? When mine bit the dust I did not have enough power to get past 2nd gear; it all happened very suddenly too.

It's all relative, my light foot still sees most cars rapidly disappearing in the rear view mirror albeit not nearly as quickly as happens with my heavy foot. I'm now driving a 25 mile round trip to work with about 90% on highway and am averaging around 11.5 - 12 mpg; on the same 170 mile roundtrip at 88ish mph as I used to do daily I still get the the same 14.5 mpg that I used to get with the 05 turbo and the 09 GTS. Go figure!

Mine never stopped but I had a very precarious limp home, in your situation I would have done the same. Mine was my DD for a 170 mile round trip commute, over 4k miles a month and I intended to keep the car for some time so replacing both was a no brainer as far as i was concerned.

I was told by dealer that pumps should be replaced in pairs but most people don't due to cost

If you're into the car for the long term though it becomes more expensive to do the same job twice.

When I changed mine ( same symptoms as yours before finally one gave up the ghost completely ) my tech told me that Porsche advised changing both pumps and the filter at the same time. Makes sense on a higher mileage vehicle as both are likely to be in a similar condition.

Glad to hear you got it sorted in the end though!

Dear forum members, i try to find out what could cause this issue and maybe someone has an idea what to look for. Cayenne is driving fine. At low speed no problems. Kick down getting speed very easy. High speed no problems. Just between i feel its behavior is not normal. I have this problem allready some weeks. Porsche cant find anything. No codes so far. Last week i drive 1000 km non stop and specially focused on the issue. My impression, better to say what i learned from this trip. The car acts just strange in the range between 3000 and 4000 rpm. In any other situations no complain. Strange means its not running smooth, accelaration feels like there are very short moments when the engine isnt getting enough gas. Some kind of very short stottering but you can really feel it. If i pass the 3800 / 4000 rpm its fine again. Maybe somebody has a clue what it could be. The car has new coils and short time ago got new throttle body and new fuel pumps. Cayenne S , 2004 Thank you

The car has new coils and short time ago got new throttle body and new fuel pumps.

Well you threw us of the scent a little with this information.

My old 05 CTT at 195,000km on its last annual roadworthiness test had to be put in the sport setting to pass, however damping was still adjustable and didn't feel substantially different from what it had done in the past. At this point if driven very hard it would tend to buck a little in fast corners.

Nice price range, $700+ to $1,000-

Unless that's the total for a pair, that price is significantly more than I can buy the factory front discs for. If that is for a pair, who is the vendor at that price?

Looks to me like it's for one.

Autoanything $945

Amazon $725

Zeckhausen Racing $1094

ebay $748

and probably some more...

Nice price range, $700+ to $1,000-