SimonP5150

When was your fuel filter last replaced? I'd start there.

It's been said by many wise people on this and every board to drive it like you stole it! These cars love to be driven hard (abusing a car is different). There are stories of extreme low mileage and babied examples eating their IMS bearings due to lack of use and regularly track driven examples not missing a beat. The car will always need maintenance items if you drive it alot, but I enjoy maintaining mine and driving it like it was meant to be driven. 72K on mine.

There's probably no power to the CDC in the trunk. Make sure it's plugged in..

All -

I wanted to share my experience with the K&N Intake for our cars, it has been both enjoyable and frustrating with the result being it got traded for a shift kit yesterday.

The thing makes a 996 really sound like the super car that it is but after 3 soiled MAF's I'm over it. I thought that it might be over oiling, so I stuck a dry cone on it and still killed another MAF in short order.

My observations:

1. The cheap MAF's hold up to hot air just as long as the Bosch units.

2. A bad MAF can throw all kinds of weird codes. Go clean yours.

3. It sounds great, mashing the gas in a tunnel always brings a smile to my face.

4. Car wants to die with the rain sock on the filter when driving through a touchless car wash.

5. Car runs like crap on hot days.

6. My opinion is that the car sucking hot air frys the MAF. I used a white cloth to wipe the inside of the intake tube around the MAF and there was no oil residue or dirt which is why I think it's the hot air that damages the MAF.

7. Removed hot air intake, replaced factory airbox, used lightly oiled K&N drop in, sealed off the small silencer hole with the Schnell pipe. Car runs great, sounds half as good but no more trouble codes!

Cheers

For what it's worth i've been using a cheap MAF for over a year now. Swapped it out when my K&N "Cold Air" intake fouled the last one. No issues.

So the other day I got a 1531 code with no CEL which got me thinking that I didn't really feel the Variocam kick in the butt anymore. The Durametric is telling me that the cam values arent changing when the engine revs however I am able to activate both banks with the Durametric manually.

Not sure what the next step is. Any ideas?

Thanks for the advice. I looked into the microswitches. According to one of the threads I found there are 7 in total related to the door but none of them seam to set/limit the window travel. The thread indicates "When the car is unlocked and either handle is lifted, this signals the alarm control module (ACM) to lower the appropriate window by 10mm, and turn on the interior lights. As soon as the door opens, another switch inside the door lock (explained later) tells the ACM that the door is open,which holds the window down until the door is closed, when the window is raised, and the dimming timer on the interior lights is started. Once the car is locked, the outside handle switches are ignored by the ACM."

Can you please explain further which micro switch you are refering to?

If it is controlled by the ACM is it possible this needs to be adjusted due to the replaced regulator?

This may sound odd but check all of the four fuses related to the power windows. After replacing my regulator, the windows would lower on their own whenever I closed the door, then they stopped working. I was surprised to find four different fuses related to the windows with one blown. Worth a check..

I have been on the rennlist forum and I think I have the answer i was looking for. Pin the crank at TDC and replace one by one after priming the new tensioner with fresh oil.. I will have the parts in a week or so and will follow up with the results.

So how do you know when to replace them? How did your replacement work out?