70Sixter

I recently bought a GoGroove mini Bluetooth adaptor with fm transmitter. Work fine playing music or phone calls over my CDR-23. Audiophiles might not like music, but it is fine for my retired Marine damaged hearing. And phone is great improvement over earpiece.

I believe the key must be programmed for your car. By PIWIS, maybe PST-2 can still do it.

I don't think the 2004 Box CDR-23 has speed controlled volume like earlier cars. It has another name Audio something that is supposed to adjust sound to ambient noise. Can't tell a difference on mine.

Check with Suncoast in FL.

Also recommend an oil sample analysis. Copper from rod and main bearings non-ferrous, but not black. Some aluminum also.

Possible water pump? Early M96 had plastic impellers.

Good one JFP.

+1 on LN spin-on and add the magnetic drain plug. Napa Platinum also good in 1042 IIRC.

Check LN site. He no longer recommends one of the Napa filters, but I forget the number and am not near garage. The ss version looks good and might be on with my next oil chane at 5k miles.

Have had the LN spin on for several years. Bought directly from Charles at LN. Fine piece of machine work.

Agree with Joe Gibbs break in oil. Followed by JG Driven 5w-40 hi-ZDDP oil.

I used denatured alcohol on my Box and Isopropyl on wife's BMW. DENATURED was far better. Just don't let it get into the mirror cover hinges.

Just tell Eric at Bumper Plugs the color.

I'd say demonic possession or a failing relay. Didn't check the circuit diagram tho. Hard to diagnose while it is working.

Cost $80 and is very high quality.

BlendMount was the mirror mount I bought via Amazon. I tried to order directly, but their site apparently did not like my iPhone.

As I think about it I'd run from anyone who even mentioned "magnetic aluminum" particles. Also check the oil filter for particulates in bright sunlite. I recommend and use the LNE screw on filter. Regardless you should check the innards of the filter for particulates.

Mike Focke is right about the experience of the mechanic/technician. I'd want one with lots thereof.

An oil analysis is the only way I know to tell what is going on in the engine. True - aluminum is not magnetic and would not stick to a magnetic drain plug. Very iron small particles might not show up at a mag drain plug. Or for that matter in a chip detector like LNE's Guardian. Copper indicates rod or main bearing wear or near failure. Aluminum also might be same sign. Get thee oil to an analyst. Flat6Innovations or LNE as next best. Not Blackstone.

I know from experience. Jake Raby caught my near fatal engine-icide and fixed it BEFORE the IMS failed and the engine grenaded. He also told me to park my 986S and get it apart ASAP. So I shipped it to him. Thank Goodness. The rod bearings were shot and the cams scored. Oil was in the IMS but it had not yet failed.

This with non-Mobil mucho expensivo primo full syn oil/filter at 5k or one year. No short trips. Etc. etc. In other words perfect maintenance and ZERO sign of a problem. Even had dealer 45k service just prior. But collected oil sample. To my horror and relief later.

I got confused by the different combinations and permutations of MY and models. What 996 gauge cluster will wok with my 2004 986S?

6 speed, not tip. Plug and play electronically? I know the surround and dash cover differ.

I bought a mirror mount and ran power from under dash up the A pillar and over to the mirror. I can't find the brand right now but got it from Amazon.

I beats the suction cup mounts with wires on the dash and the visor mount - both of which I tried and gave up on. I now can use my visor, but the detector is more visible to cops or other thieves. Cops no problem in most states. Detector detaches easily to hide from others.

Before starting (assuming you have not) put car in 4th gear and move it gently fore and aft. If fan belt is turning the pistons and crank are not frozen. I'd quirt some oil or maybe even WD-40 into each cylinder to provide initial start up lube for the rings. I'd replace the belt right afterward.

Brakes might also be frozen, so roll and check to see they release from the rotor. They should also be flushed with fresh fluid and bled to remove any air in the system.

It is easy to put hotspots on your rotors if you stay on the brake pedal after a hard braking stop. The heat around the pads will not dissipate like the rest of the rotor. Thinner the rotor, worser the problem.

Not sure about safety, but I'd err on the conservative side and replace them. I take it the rotor thickness was in spec.

I read somewhere that repair was not possible. Good to know. I wanted to keep the original bumper cover. Just in case....

I like the screens you have in the front. I think they look good in back with the license plate area cut out like a spec Boxster.

Google Pedrosgarage.com. He has a mod many love.

All aftermarket mufflers I know of drone in certain RPM ranges.

Make certain there is sufficient distilled water in the battery. You can unscrew the plugs with a wide blade screwdriver.