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70Sixter

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Posts posted by 70Sixter

  1. Purchase a battery maintainer. Optima batteries are just as prone to the parasitic losses on these newer vehicles as a conventional wet cell battery.

    +1 Any battery wants to be at full charge, but not overcharged. My 914-6 with red top Optima on a maintainer disappointed me. I just switched to Braille 17 lb. You can wire two 17s together or try a 21 lb version for a Cayenne. I got mine from Tire Rack.

  2. The Porsche recommended air pressure gives a fair amount of understeer, which Porsche's lawyers probably figure is good from a liability standpoint. I run 30-31 PSI in front and 36 PSI in the rear and it seems to work fine for me. At least, that's what my tire pressure gauge says and I've never calibrated it

    I don't get excessive tire wear, but also keep my tires properly inflated and balanced, and get an alignment every two years or so.

    +1

    I run 30-31 front and 35 (maybe 34 next fill) rear and watch tire wear closely. Turn in is improved and it is not tail happy at all. Rears worn out at 20k miles, but evenly worn. Fronts still good but have reached old age. And I've never had an alignment.

  3. I can't add to judgejon's comment, but I had weird symptoms in my 911. It would start fine, run for a bit and die. After going nearly nuts I discovered internal fuel pump leak let gas into motor side from pump side.

  4. Some people forget the problems air cooled sixes had or have.

    Timing chain tensioners that failed, sometimes explosively if at high RPM. Air boxes that exploded, head bolts that failed, and that's just off the top of my head.

    The 993 was probably the best air cooled car Porsche could build and expect to meet ever more stringent emissions standards. In 911 development there were fixes and improvements made to what was basically the 901.

    The 986/996 was a clean sheet design that, at least to me, captured the soul of 911-ness. And they were designed for ease/efficiency in their manufacturing process.

    I remember 356 guys saying that we should buy a 1965 C or SC because this would be the last "real" Porsche!

  5. I drive my 2003 C4 cab in Minnesota year round. I do swap out 17" wheels and Blizzaks for the winter though. Traction for starting and stopping is great. It's better than my wife's Mazda 3.

    Turning is a little difficult because there isn't much weight over the front wheels. Not a problem at all, actually very controllable.

    Ground clearance can be an issue if streets get rutted. I haven't damaged anything, but I do scrape from time to time.

    I don't think you have a cab, but FFR I don't have a hardtop and have not had any issues with the soft top even at -5 degrees.

    :welcome:

    Zel is right you need snow tires for certain. And 17s are better. Most people recommend two sets of wheels for winter driving so you can keep the snows mounted.

    Real enemy is the salt. Not sure how far south you are in the mid-Atlantic, but if you don't have to drive the car every day, I'd say leave it home on snow/salt days and until rain washed the residue away.

    A C4 should be a blast in the snow if you have to drive in it. Make sure to check coolant with an hydrometer for appropriate level of freeze protection.

  6. It has been posted before related to engine warm up. And it is interesting, but that guy really focused on lubrication and flow without much focus on additives like ZDDP. He alludes to "harmful" additives that can cause damage to the environment by causing problems to catalytic converters.

    I took it all in and swallowed it with a grain of Italian salt.

    And.... :welcome:

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