Red Aero

Hello I'm fairly new to this site, but i need help with my '99 C2.

It's been like two months now that i haven't used the 996 when my clutch pedal stayed depressed on my way to an errand.

I have replaced both Clutch Master & Slave cylinders already (c/o Carlsen Porsche) but still don't have the correct clutch pedal feel.

By the way, my 996 C2 is just 10K miles that's why my technician asked me to replace the Master & Slave of my clutch system.

After installing the new parts, my technician is puzzled why there is only clutch pedal "feel" about 2-inches from the floor . . .

My question is:

DO I HAVE A WORN INTERNAL CLUTCH PART?

DISC?

PRESSURE PLATE?

Bryan

Loren,

Sorry, I got confused on one part of the optional clutch bleeding... "Remove the wood. Then, pump the pedal again very slowly by hand for a further 60 seconds. After pressing the pedal down fully about 10 to 15 times, leave the pedal in its normal position." What is the normal position? I chose to end the pumping at the full up position, but did you mean in the down position because that's where the clutch pedal started the procedure?

thanks,

kj

Normal position is with the pedal up.

I bought a new Clutch Master & Slave from Carlsen Porsche last Feb 21. Slave PN 997-116-237-04 & Master PN 996-423-171-06.

Upon installation, i followed this procedure (thrice) in bleeding my new clutch components & to my dismay i still do not have the proper clutch pedal feel. I can only feel pressure start when the clutch pedal is like 2-inches from the floor when depressed. Could i have done something wrong in the process?

MY99 10K Miles

-Fuel Carbon Canister Fault with Check Engine light ON

-Refurbished Alternator with Bosch Parts

-Clutch Master Cylinder leak

Hi Loren!

A month ago, the clutch master on my MY99 996 10Tmiles started leaking.

Since the Clutch Master Cylinder (996.423.171.06) & the Clutch Operating Cylinder (997.116.237.04) work hand in hand, i ordered & replaced both from the US.

Upon installation of both new cylinders my mechanic could NOT bleed the system properly.

The usual pedal feel "with pressure" is not there.

I am reading the DIYs in Renn Tech & it's quite confusing.

Can you lead me to the page where i can get some info on how to bleed my clutch system without the "Motive" equipment?

My 996 has been in the lift for 2 days now. :help:

More power!

I don't use the "blue" fluid because it stains everything including the brake reservoir. My guess it makes the fluid hard to recycle as they have to clean the dye from it.

Hmmm . . so that's why my reservoir is bluish.

Gotta clean it up (if i still can) & fill up with Motul RBF600.

:renntech:

I use MOTUL inugel all the way in the hot Phillipine climate with no issues.

I 2nd that!

Motul Inugel straight-up for me too!

Don't forget to turn On your Heater System to circulate the fresh coolant you put in :jump:

Gentlemen, when does the engine compartment fan turn ON?

I never saw this fan turn On since i acquired my 996 a year ago.

Peace!

Just curious what do you sense when the master cylinder fails or has a problem.

Usually, the pedal feel is lighter but makes it hard for you to shift. :)

At the moment I am having a hard time bleeding my clutch system after a replacement of both Master & Slave components.

Any tips for me?

My 996 has been on the car-lift for 2 days now. :help:

When I got my 996 a year ago, it had a 65Amh battery in it. It was working well when I noticed that the Voltmeter reading was below 13-volts.

2 weeks after, I changed the battery to a Calcium type with 90Amh rating. Only to find out that the Alternator is not charging properly anymore.

I had it pulled out & had it repaired ($350). Now even at idle speeds, the volt meter reads 14-volts (almost).

I believe that the old 66Amh battery that came with the car overworked the Alternator.

Hopefully with this "high" ampere Rocket Calcium Battery & a refurbished Alternator with Bosch parts holds up well for the next 3 years.

:beer: