pjslowik

JB, can you post some pics?

We just bought a 2002 Boxster.

Where did you buy it from? Private sale? Dealer? Used car lot?

We top up the 1/2 empty tank, try re-starting, and there are more sputters and coughs and shudders. Then there's a pop, like a backfire. Smoke comes out both sde vents and from under the car, then a ball of flame blows from under the car. We frantically push away from the pumps.

As someone that has had two engine failures and been stranded three times in my Boxster, I deeply sympathizes with your plight.

However, if it ever takes a mind to burning itself again, let it go!

Did the old version use to look like this ebay picture? If so, then it does not look like the part number changed.

Yes, but that one looks really old. Could be the pic.

That is interesting. Got to get my hands on that filter and compare it to the 3 others.

It could be Wix next time around....

I thought of your comparrison when I first saw the change in the new filter. I knew if I posted a pic you would likely say that. ESP, I guess.

I really like this design, especially the "made in Germany." I thought the wix "O" ring inner seal was a good idea. What do you give for the Wix anyway?

Interesting...was this a recent re-design? I purchased a Mann filter for my S last November for its winter oil change. Mine was still the older design with the paper ribs extending the full length. Advantages of the new design?

I did an oil change 5000 miles ago in August, I think. I used a Mann then and it was the old style. I had no problem with it. It looked identical to the OE. I am impressed with the newer type though, especially the way it seals.

Here is the Mann oil filters I use. They changed the design. The top and bottom sealing surfaces are rigid now and fit tightly. I get them for about nine bucks from a wholesaler. Local dealer charges $21 for Porsche filter (which are not made by Porsche anyway).

Dave Martin vp, pcna

dmartin@porschecars.com

Some things to note. The outer axle nuts need to be torqued to 340ft lb. Also you need a special tool to remove the ball joint and tie rod

340'lb...calibrated elbow.

Are you sure these shafts won't come out without disconnecting the suspension? Sometimes the lower control arm can be jacked enough to give the needed clearance.

Thanks Guys for reminding me about my experiences!

Since the third engine, I now have put another 10K miles on it. I change the oil and filter every 5K. This motor has quite a bit of vibration that I didn't have on the other two. Might be something wrong with the rotating mass between the engine and tranny that was screwed up on last install. Then there's the "ping" issue. Just installed a new set of Pilot Sports in back. I love the way it looks and drives. I have six more months on factory warranty and can't decide what to do.

Andy - thanks for the good thought. I have seen 911's that have had multiple motor replacements too. Don't mean to alarm you. That doesn't mean it will happen to you.

Mdetrick - Sorry to hear about your episode.

"One ping only during shifting" sounds more like gearbox issues than detonation. Does it ever ping while not shifting??

I'm 99 percent certain it is ping. I had a new car in the early 80's that had a serious detonation problem that the dealer couldn't fix, so I gained a lot of experience identifying the symptoms. The sound is unique and unmistakable.

I never hear it other during high-torque engagements in the lower RPMs in the 2k to 3k range or so.

It's snowing today so I won't get it out for a while now. Just put on a new set of Michelins too.

Other than the nitro-methane I use in my modle airplanes, I wouldn't know where to get 100 octane. I haven't done anything on this yet cause I haven't been driving it much lately.

If you are in the US then some locations of Union 76 carry 100 octane. It is also available at most tracks.

Thanks Loren, but 76 only operates west of IN and south of GA. I live in CowHampshire. Think the airlines will allow a carry-on of a gallon next time I visit CA?

There is a combo plug-patch that is installed from the inside. Look for a shop that specializes in these repairs.

Other than the nitro-methane I use in my modle airplanes, I wouldn't know where to get 100 octane. I haven't done anything on this yet cause I haven't been driving it much lately.

Curious. Wonder why no 93 in those states??

Ditto!

Porsche/Audi in Nashua NH had one. It was open for inspection with no restriction. Salesperson even came over and opened the engine compartment for us.

Oh, one other things. I reported the problem to my deaaler and they said that I should not leave the car in gear (manual trans) when I park it because there is a gear indicator in the trans that will draw power even with key off. Does not sound reasonable to me.

I leave my 03 in gear all the time and sometimes weeks without a charge with no problem

2. Is this possible or would I have to ground the negative lead , I could use the door hinge potentially

As usual all suggestions are welcome, and apologies if I'm thinking illogically.

WARNING - if you at any time connect the meter leads between +12v and ground, while in amps setting, you will cause a dead short. For checking current measurements, only connect between two hot or ground leads.

I've got a 986 and oddly enough, I was going to post to ask why, when the clutch is depressed, the rpms go up about 50 rpm and when released, rpms go down. So, I think it serves a purpose, but why is this necessary?

Disengaging clutch unloads transmission from engine. Reduced load allows RPM to increase. You can see it more readily on a cold transaxel.

3. I set the dial to 200ACA (the lowest available)to check the reading and then start pulling fuses

Am I using the clamp meter in the correct way?

Sorry, Bro, amp clamp only works for AC current. You need to hook the meter in series and set to DC amps, like I told you earlier. Clamp works by induction. AC induces current. DC does not.

Try disconnecting fully charged battery for a couple days to see if it holds a charge. Feel free to E-mail me if you want.

Good luck!

Just the other day, I opened my wife's Passat hood to check the oil. There was a nest atop the V6 of about two handfulls of shreaded burlap (bushes are wrapped in burlap for the winter) and some of the hood insulation. I tywrap some of those sticky mouse traps to parts of the engines on my cars that sit outside. Normally hers is garaged but I left it out to work on another.

Rodents have easy access to your engine from underneath. Once in there, it makes nice shealter for them. Good luck.

Take your battery in and have it tested, but make sure it is charged first.

Probably the best advise.

Disconnect battery (-.) Connect ammeter (multimeter on DC amps or current) between battery (-) and ground cable. Read milliamps (hopefully not amps) and post here.

If you get more than a few milliamps, begin pulling and replacing fuses, one at a time, reading any change in current drain, until you find the circuit causing the drain. The kind of drain you have is likely a bulb somewhere. Be careful working with and around the battery.

Good luck.

Johnny, sorry to hear about your problem. I hope it turns out to be something simple. Anyway, please be sure to let us know what becomes of this. Cheers.