pjslowik

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I frequently take my Boxster to Manhattan, but don't park in garages. I refuse to pay to park. I'm lucky enough to find spaces in the residential areas and have never had a problem parking on the street (I just jinxed myself.)

If you have no luck with the manager, querry your insurance policy's comprehensive coverage.

Long time, Danny.

Come on over some day and we can bake car parts, but it will not fit in my microwave oven. :rolleyes:

Dude, time for a new microwave!

Thanks, but I can hear the lifters from time to time but that is a different noise. The lifter chatter is continuous. This makes only one ping. I could have a mistorqued or bad knock sensor, or something causing a lean mixture.

PTEC - I hope you add a quart of Tequila to that 91 octane, otherwise your DME is retarding your timing and reducing your output. Porsche requires 93 octane. But I might try your suggestion and add some octane booster and see what happens.

It's definately knock. Sounds like a ball peen hammer tapped once against a cast iron stove. Very faint. I doubt most people would notice it. I have to have the top down, or be passing a wall or sonething to hear it.

I know it shouldn't be doing that. There's obviously something wrong.

03 Boxster 2.7. When I shift into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, I can hear one ping. It occurs under moderate load, shifting at about 3500 rpm, and engaging the lower gear under equally moderate load. The "shifted to" rpm isn't so low that I'm laboring the engine. It doesn't ping any other time.

Of course you wouldn't normally hear ping because of the knock sensors, but I do hear the one I described and it is definately detonation. I use Shell or Mobil 93 octane and checked the air filter. This (3rd) engine only has 8000 miles on it. The other engines did not do this.

Any ideas? Thanks

Volkswagen factory manuals have an excellent section on CV joint disassembly and boot replacement. It should be similar, if not identical, for the Porsche joints. I have been refurbishing the original joints on my 87 GLI for 240,000 miles. They go through front boots about every 100k, but sometimes I do them if I have the axel(s) out, even if they are good.

CV joints are self-correcting for wear. If you clean and replace boot soon after boot damage, and prevent galling from lack of grease, they can last for 00's of 000's of miles.

Try one of those Duplicolor touchup pens.

Thanks both for replying. Nice pic of shaft. Looks like he threw a rod on that one.

A factory rep did tell me, on my last engine replacement, that they went from a double bearing to a single, and now back to a double. He said I had the updated bearing (double), thrust washer, and RMS, and that now I should have a good engine. That was in June. I have been racking up the miles this summer, trying to "prove" the engine before the warranty runs out next July.

Anyway, I can't seem to find the bearing in any of the drawings.

Loren, Is number 13, "Housing" the part that contains the bearing that commonly fails? If not, where is it? If so, can this be removed and replaced without dismantling the engine? Has anyone you know of ever done a replacement in anticipation of a failure? Thanks.

Intermediate_shaft.pdf

You have to ask yourself how many engines have been built and how many had the same failure?

Funny! I had two replacements on my new '03 Boxster. One at 3,000 mi and another at 25,000 mi. These definitely suffer from a design flaw. Kinda reminds me of GM's attempt at an alum/silicone bore engine in the Vega. Then I think of Porsche's failed attempt at Indy a few years back - broken engine. Now I'm regretting the purchase. They just want to get me through the warranty period then I'm on my own.

Good luck!

I had a dent on my Boxster when it was a month old. Added insult to injury. It was in for an engine replacement and I got it back damaged. I think it was done purposely. There was a sharp dent next to the filler door. Dent Wizzard had tools that got back through the pass door. I watched while it was worked on. You cannot tell there was ever any damage.

SO...when one of my gooood-running cars, that didn't have a mark on it, was rammed by some teeniebopper, I took it to Dent Wizzard. I was willing to settle for a less-than-perfect repair in exchange for not needing half the car repainted. However, even on this difficult repair, it is nearly perfect. They did no paint work. Cost was $170 I think. Body shops wanted $450 - $700. Check it out - rear of fender lip.

My 2005 997C2S (manual,coupe, RHD England) has sooty left hand side tailpipes.

Pull a couple (or three) plugs and see if it is cylinder specific.

I think you'll find that's unburned fuel and not oil.

I think that's done by the dual-mass flywheel.

Anybody??

Perhaps we can add a "Boxster Window Issues" section?

There are likely strut bearings, on the front anyway, that let the strut rotate while being attached to the vehicle. I don't have the detial in front of me, but all front struts I've worked have had some sort of mounting bearing at the top. And they wear out and make noise.

...after getting the tip mostly polished, I decided to beadblast it back to a satin finish for now.

Did you get it to a mirror finish? I did mine and it is like a mirror. I'm currious why you went back to the satin finish.

Sachs likely makes the units for Porsche. I used the Sachs complete replacement kits on other German cars and have been very satisfied. Find a good OEM import parts supplier and $ave.

My apologies to you

You asked an intelligent question and got nothing but crap for answers.

LOL - At least you got an answer. This thread was enjoyable. Glad you found what you were looking for.

No I have not. My car suffers far more serious defects so I haven't bothered. I know one thing...I could have done it myself with an airbrush for ten bucks. Good luck

I have the factory roll bars to match exterior paint. About a $550 option. I think they are just painted because the paint has chipped in a couple places from the seat windstops. Powder coat would be more durable but would not match body paint.

My 03 Boxster's windows work fine until the temps get below about 50*. Then, when I pull on the inside door lever, the window jumps open some, but then when I release the handle, the window continues all the way down. Likewise, opening the door from the outside results in a fully lowered window. Unlocking the top will fully lower the windows also. Sometimes they lower different distances. Using the window switches results in mixed occurrences. Sometimes they will lower and continue some after the switch is released, and sometimes they will continue all the way down.

This only happens in the cold. The colder it is, the worse it gets. Can anyone explain how the limiting mechanism works in these? How are the different preset lowering distances set? Thanks.

These people are crooks

Not just crooks...liers too!

Invest in a set of tubing wrenches, or borrow one, if you intend to replace it. You may not be able to buy a new preformed line and will have to form one yourself. Not difficult if you have any experience with tubing benders. I have done some on my truck.

jm, is that an actual Cayman spoiler or an aftermarket? How was the fitment? Did you have to modify? I was looking at a Cayman spoiler at the dealer today and was wondering about how to retrofit.

Here's my last oil report in .pdf format.

Thanks for the copy of the report. I'm wondering what the results for a 0-40 report would look like.