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The Beanster
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Everything posted by The Beanster
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I've got my car apart and the battery disconnected so I cant test this out but is the arm rest accessory socket always powered (ie when the key is out of the ignitio)? Thanks!
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I'm swapping out my track pads to street pads since the DE season is over. I noticed this plate behind the rotors and my first thought was that removing it might help cool the rotors a bit more. What is the purpose of this plate and would removing help with rotor cooling? Cheers!
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I got my car back from the shop and found this hose is disconnected. It is a firm plastic pipe coming out from under the cowling on the windshield. I'm guessing its nothing critical because it just has a snap-on connection. Any ideas?
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Thanks for the info. I had a hard time believing it was the sways. Can you give me some details to "scope the sensors"?
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I checked the wheel sensors last night with the Durametric tool and found no issues. However, I did find that my front right tire has less rubber than the front left. The area where it is most noticeable is the outside edge (closest to the wheel face). This seems odd to me since it is the "inside" wheel/tire for a track that is largely right hand turns. It seems surprising that the PSM would kick on with such a small change in available rubber. The tech at the indie shop I use says it could be that the sways are set too firm. I use GMG bars (firm in rear, medium up front). Any thoughts?
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I just took the car out and did some wicked circling around an empty parking lot. I think I felt the PSM kick in two or three times. I then stopped and plugged in the Durametric without shutting off the car and there are no faults being shown. The only fault name that I can remember from this past weekend was one about Sport Mode failure. But the rest have escaped my memory. We're heading to VIR next weekend and I dont want to worry about PSM (yes, I need it on the track). Any thoughts for things to look for and what I might be able to check while at the track if this happens again?
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Yeah... I figured that but the codes are gone now. I should have written them down but I was so eager to get back on the track that I just cleared them and took off again. This morning, there are no codes after a 30 minute street ride. I guess I need to find an empty parking lot and do some wicked cornering to tease the PSM into activation. I will try that this afternoon and report back. Some other tidbits... Tires are same size with no noticeable difference in wear. Wheels are correct sizes. Brake lights function as normal. I read that a bad MAF can cause this but I dont understand what the MAF has to do with PSM. And in my case, the car seems to only cause this issue when turning right.
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During an afternoon session on the track yesterday (at NJMP Lightning) my car started to abruptly brake itself during any hard right hand turns. It was clearly the PSM kicking in but I have no idea why. It went from bad to worse so I pitted in and restarted the car. The issue continued though. I tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes as well, but no luck. I ran the short tests with my Durametric cable and it found several issues. It is showing that the PSM valve relay is active and that the FL valve inlet and out are active. The other 3 sides of the car do not show that these valve are active. After a short while, the dash display read "PSM Failure" and would not let me enable Sport mode. I reset the faults and drove the rest of the day at the track with PSM turned off. I did notice that ABS worked fine during these runs. Any suggestions for a place to start diagnosing the issue? I dont have much time until the next track event (VIR) but I really dont want to hand the car over to a stealership.
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Any ideas as to the maximum temperature that any of the coolant manifold fittings get to? I'm referring to the fittings that have been known to fall out at the worst possible time.
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Q's About Transmission Fluid Change - w/ Locking Differential
The Beanster replied to The Beanster's topic in 997 TT, 997 GT2
Anybody? -
My 997 TT is about due for a transmission fluid change. There are plenty of threads discussing various trans fluid options but it seems that most people stick with the factory fluid which I believe is Delvac. I seem to remember that you're not supposed use Delvac if you have a locking differential (which my car does). Is that right? And if so, which fluid should I use? Cheers!
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After I installed Tarett drop links on my 997 GT3, I took the car in for a track alignment at TPC Racing. They gave me a hand-drawn note about the drop links and suggested that these are not suitable for the 997 GT3. Take a look at the attached photo I took of the note. Any comments greatly appreciated.
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I just bought the 999-707-465-40 o-ring from my dealer and paid $12.06 (and that was with a PCA member discount). The dealership cost was $4.73. Even the dealer is paying through the nose for this part. If it's so critical to be changed with each new filter, then why doesn't come with the kit. This is simply a 10mm ID, 14 mm OD, 2 mm wall Viton O-ring (70a Durometer). McMaster has them for $9.10 for a pack of 25. Viton is chemical and oil resistant and god for up to +400° F. Near as I can tell this OEM o-ring is about 70a soft. Any reason why this wouldn't work? (Yeah... I know there will be some that say I should be the one to test it.) :D
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Tarett Drop Links - Install Question
The Beanster replied to The Beanster's topic in 997 GT3, GT3 RS
Thanks. I figured it out seeing that the OEM links have a similar arrangement in terms of the bolt lengths. BTW.. thanks Loren for the great oil change write up. Did mine last weekend with your instructions. Cheers mate. Joe -
Any one know which side attaches to the sway bar arm and which side attached to the control arm?
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The dealer called today and they contacted Porsche who agreed to replace the part under warranty. The part is now estimated at $7000. This is pretty annoying considering it could be just a bad bearing in the housing. Anyhow, I have to pay the labor for the job which is $680. All in all, I guess I can't complain. I should have the car by Friday.
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Another follow up. I just called about my car and the Porsche dealer still has not looked at it. As of tomorrow, it will have been sitting on their lot for a week. He said they would probably get to it by Monday. This is so frustrating. The schmucks at Hampton Inn would not offer me refund or credit for my hotel stay from last weekend's missed Watkins Glen event.
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The tech from the dealership where this car originated has been very helpful. He was the first to find this leak back in 2009 (though no fix was applied). It just so happened that he was at a tech class when I emailed him about the continued leaking problem and luckily Porsche had a cut away differential there at the class so he snapped those pictures for me.
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This additional info was just emailed to me by a Porsche tech... There are two separate chambers in the front diff of your Turbo. Both are separated by a chamber that only houses a bearing. On either side of the bearing are seals. If there is a seal leak, the weep hole is there to protect from fluid cross-contamination. Both chambers have different fluids. There are two weep holes. The one were talking about and the one on the bottom side of the diff. One is repairable and one is not, yours is not and must be replaced. :cursing:
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Just a follow up for anyone interested. A leak from this particular weep hole (there are two on the front diff) indicates a leak at one of the internal seals. Porsche does not offer parts to fix it. Instead, the entire differential has to be replaced. The differential is $6000 and the labor is estimated at around $900. My car is 7 months out of warranty but its been leaking for a coule of years according to the service documentation from the previous owner. The car is currently at the dealer waiting for the leak to be inspected again. We'll see if Porsche will honor some sort of warranty on this since it was problematic before the warranty expired. Previous "fixes" from Porsche service tickets say "Could not find source of leak. Cleaned differential housing and bottom tray." Fixes from non-Porsche shops say "Changed/Added washer" and "Applied sealant to threads on sensor." I dont know if it matters to anyone but I'll follow up later with the results from the dealer. I didn't get to go to Watkins this weekend! Insult to injury... the Hampton Inn would not offer a refund or a credit towards a future stay. D'oh!
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My 2007 TT has been in for service to fix a front diff leak five times (two times at a Porsche dealer and three times at an independant performance shop). Yesterday, while prepping my car for a DE at Watkins Glen (June 18-19) I found the diff fluid on my garage floor again. The tech looked at it this morning and found a hole on the front diff about 5mm wide and 1 to 2 inches below the fill bolt. We are thinking this is a weep hole by why is it below the fill plug and why would it leak? Is something missing? Here are pictures taken of a cut-away diff that show the location of my leak. Any thoughts on this? Even the Porsche is unsure and I'd hate to miss the DE event this weekend. Thanks!
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I had to remove the black plastic shroud at the base of my windshield yesterday to get to a broken piece of plastic (the cabin filter latch broke off apparently). In the process I found that the cable that connects to the PCM GPS is severely messed up. I suspect this damage occurred when the original owner had the windshield replaced from a crack. He had it done by a Porsche dealer but it looks like they may have rushed the job and broken several hidden parts in the process. When I disconnected the blue clip from the GPS sensor, two small fragments of metal fell out. Based on the size of these pieces, I can tell there were 5 of these little "wings" when new. I found that the fragments are what used to be the outer connection for the plug. It’s very hard to explain but these pieces that have broken off are similar to the pieces that I’ve drawn arrows to in this picture… Has anyone had to replace one of these? I cringe at the thought of having to replace the whole wiring bundle and harness. In fact, I’d say that would be impossible to do. I’m not sure what this part is called so I’m not sure where to even start my search. Perhaps it’s a RF connection or some sort of mini-coax connector.
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I have a GT2 rear sway bar due in tomorrow for my Turbo. On other cars that I've installed sways, the instructions said to use a synthetic grease (I use Mobil 1 sythetic grease). This was probably because these cars had rubber bushings instead of polyurethane. I'm not sure if the bushings that come with the GT2 sway bar are poly or rubber but should I grease them?
