Gabo2k

Sounds like maybe a loose rear swaybar.

I get the same clunking sound, but on the left rear (driver's side).

Beverly Hills Porsche misdiagnosed the sound twice. First, they said it was a loose swaybar. The second time they said it was some part connected to the emergency cable assembly, and that it could not be fixed.

I took the rear left wheel of and saw nothing.

This weekend I might go there again with a soft mallet :D

Let's keep eachother informed.

I had a similar problem on my 2001 Boxster S. Turned out to be the front strut tower mounts, which I believe are the same as 996. I actually replaced them with the new 997 version and the sound went away.

Ah, thanks for the info.

I'll grease them up this weekend. If that does not resolve the problem, I'll have them replaced.

seems to have a lot of drivetrain replacement for a newer car with low mileage. i have to wonder about the rest of the car's reliability. transmission is another area prone to failure. also, this hurts resale as a car w original engine without any story is usually best. use this to your adv when you negotiate. is the dealer reputatable where it is serviced? a mediocre dealer would worry me since they can screw up something when making engine swap. loose hoses or something can be hard to find. definitely get a warranty (CPO) on this if there is no more warranty left.

Please do not rely on carfax, as I've personally seen some huge discrepancies. I think they go by what is reported to the DMV only.

For example, if an owner pays for damage to his/her vehicle, and the insurance company is not involved, this would never make its way to carfax.

Carfax should never replace a pre purchase inspection...

That is where the tank and pump(s) are. Could be a hose or could be a cracked tank. You will need to remove the wheel and wheelwell liner to see what is going on.

Loren.

I have the same problem but only when I activate the headlight washers.

I just noticed that one of my healight washing jets is not working (driver's side), and the other comes up but does not jet any fluid out.

I do endu up with a puddle of fluid in between the front driver's side wheen and the end of the front right quarter paner, near the driver's door.

Do you have an idea on where I might start looking for loose hoses, etc.?

Thanks Loren.

MY02 and newer headlight washers are different from the earlier ones. Here is a diagram...

Loren, really, what would this site be without you? :thumbup:

You wouldn't happen to have a more zoomed out picture, would you?

Thank you.

The Mobile website recommends 0W-40 for the 3.4L. Interesting. http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoro...s.aspx?option=2

I don't think this link is accurate at all in that it does not take ambient temperature into consideration.

What this says is that someone in Alaska can use the same weight oil as someone in the Sahara desert.

Now, if they asked for your zip code or city of residence, then it would be different.

They are basically quoting factory fill...

I live in Cali. I commute from the San Fernandeo Valley to West Hollywood every work day. I average 17.2 to 17.4 mpg, with an average speed of 23 mph.

That is where the tank and pump(s) are. Could be a hose or could be a cracked tank. You will need to remove the wheel and wheelwell liner to see what is going on.

Loren.

I have the same problem but only when I activate the headlight washers.

I just noticed that one of my healight washing jets is not working (driver's side), and the other comes up but does not jet any fluid out.

I do endu up with a puddle of fluid in between the front driver's side wheen and the end of the front right quarter paner, near the driver's door.

Do you have an idea on where I might start looking for loose hoses, etc.?

Thanks Loren.

This weekend I was out for a quick run to pickup some food for dinner when I came onto an aggressivly driven E36 M3. I ended up next to him at a light (couple of punk kids) so I figured I'd show them whats up. I did a moderately high RPM clutch drop at green (maybe 3500rpm) and took off. I ate him up pretty good as expected but forgot to shift into 3rd and spent a few seconds bumping the revlimiter before I let off and shifted into 3rd and then let off before I got going too fast and went on home without incident. At least I had already opened up a big gap on the M3 :) in spite of my missed shift. Not really a fair race, considering my HP advantage and 18" brand new Pilots but I enjoyed it.

When I got home I could smell a STRONG burning that didn't smell like brakes that I haven't smelled before (not the typical engine smell from a 911). I wondered if I'd damaged the clutch?

Next day I took it out and drove it a bit to see if i could detect any slippage and everything seems fine however the smell was back at the Starbuck drive thru. Last couple of days I have not noticed the smell as prominent but am concerned that I might have caused some damage to the clutch.

Car is a 2k 996 6sp with 40k miles on it. I'm not (usually) an aggressive driver so would say the clutch has never been abused and this is only the 2nd time I've done a clutch drop.

I wouldn't call what I did abuse - would think that it could take it pretty easily.

Any ideas?

Not to worry, these cars are designed to take a good beating. You probably smelled a combination of tire, clutch, and oil residue on the engine.

Everytime I beat my car, I smell these things.

I once had a neighbor over (after some spirited driving), and he mentioned that my car smelled like it was about to catch on fire.

I told him not to worry, that I just had driven it a little hard. :D

Oh, always remember to drive slowly after a hard drive and right before putting her away. This will let all the components cool a little bit. I do a few miles around my home before I put her away in the garage.

Otherwise, your car will smoke the next morning... not a pretty sight - and smells worse...

Got the bumper on. Just needs centre line filling & painting now. Fits very well.

Oh, looks good.

Please keep us posted as I might do the same.

Do you have any pictures of the cuts, and where?

I have a turbo rear bumper in my garage, I mind as well make use of it.

Thanks. :D

I buy mine at http://www.carcareonline.com/.

Thanks Loren.

I will order from them.

The (safe for paint) Porsche product is actually P21S Windshield Wash Booster. It makes 26 quarts and is available here in the US for about $7.95.

Loren, do you know of a national auto parts store that carries this? Autozone, Pep Boys, etc.

Thanks.

Well, you need to have someone else listen with the front trunk open to see if the noise is from the front shock tower bushing(s) or... the steering wheel hub making the noise. Two very different problems.

Ok, I'll have the wifey turn the wheel as I listen. I was going to do this anyway. I was just curious to see if this was a reocurring issue on 996's.

Thank Loren.

I have an '02 Carrera 6 speed.

I noticed that when turning the steering wheel there is a sound like when bushings or seals are dry on suspension components. The sound comes from around the dash area, or within the trunck near the battery, etc.

I noticed it even more last night when I loaded up the trunck with groceries.

Anyone know what might be causing this isse?

Loren?

There are two sets of holes in the bottom of the door. One set near the handle and one set near the hinges. My understanding is that these are used to adjust he window angle to the seal. They are suggesting that you adjust the window until the seal is just tight enough that you can't pull the piece of paper out (but not loose enough that you can) - then tighten the nuts back down. Be careful not to over-tighten the nuts 7.4 ftlbs is not much.

Loren.

Which sets of screws do what funcion? I will need to adjust the passangers side window this weekend, as it slams a little too hard when closing. The driver's window does not do this.

Also, my windows move a little too slow. Is there a way of fixing this issue.

Thanks Loren.

There is no programming setting for that.

Just leave your center console cover slightly ajar. That will trigger a fault beep when you lock the car.

The fault beep will also sound when either any of the doors, truck, engine bay lids are open. So, if you rely on hearing a fault beep while arming the alarm, this would cancel out the benefit of having the alarm in the first place.

I would just ensure the parking lights blink twice when arming the alarm. Thereby ensuring a properly closed vehicle and armed alarm system.

Forgot to say that is so it fits 100%, . Also got the MASHAW 996 clubsport rear boot & wing + a MASHAW replica front turbo PU spoiler. May post pics on here as i go along, Mods will be. Make your own sports mufflers for $25, DIY Induction kit. $20, Fitting some nice sideskirts, Front bumper fit & any problems, Rear wing fit & is it any good. + the turbo rear bumper. Any feedback would be appreciated so i know that someone is interested in mods, & not just fault codes dog seats & my clutch is slipping, . Some pics of the skyline i have just sold after 6yrs of ownership. Rattly jap thing but unbelievable 650 B.H.P of pure adenalin. See.??????????/ (mick from durham) ste took me out in skyline to coast last night. I threw up twice on the way & could not move my legs when we got there, That thing should bee banned from the street..

Steve996. I have a newly painted in Bassalt Black Metalic original '02-'04 turbo rear bumper if you are interested. I'll let it go for $500.00 O.B.O. PM me if you are interested.

A 996 to 997 conversion was featured in the November 2005 issue of "Total 911".

http://jacquemond.com/designbyjacquemond.htm

From what I understand, the difference in width between the wide body versus narrow body 996 is not that noticable.

I figured this out when I bought a turbo rear bumper for my C2, and the fit was close, but not perfect.

BTW, I now have a Turbo rear bumper for sale if you are interested. I'm selling it below cost @ $500.00. It's freshly painted in Bassalt Black Metalic - a Porsche optional paint. Paint alone was $300.00

Folks, I am looking at a bottle of Mobil 1 0W-40. It states " Mobil 1 0W-40 provides the high temperature protection of a 40 weight oil combined with the easy cold starts of a 0 rating.

Protects at oil temperatures at 400 degrees Fahrenheit.. excellent cleanliness and wear protection in high temperature / hot-running engines, even at longer drain intervals.

Sounds to me that California and Florida is covered in this statement.

Regards

What is the protection? Do a little research and you'll see its not for shear strength which is what you need in a high reving, high temperature engine. But, I have no stake in what people use, but have rebuild a few dozen engines that used low viscosity oils. They are not pretty. If it doesn't cause all your seals to leak so you have to replce the engine, you have a good chance seeing the downside of the 0W40 when you get some high miles on the car. Valve guides in particular, along with main bearings. But, to each their own.

1999porsche911:

I live in Southern California. Temperatures range from 65 to 110 year-round. What oil would you recommend I use? I currently run on factory-fill 0-40W Mobil 1

Thanks.

coupe or cab? Cab's headliner is easy to remove and braces as well as plastic panel in the front of the soft top often cause rattle.

Mine is an '02 coupe.

I have an '02 Carrera.

I did a search and did not come across any particular information on how to remove the headliner.

I constatly hear rattles and I want to fix this.

I could probably figure it out, but usually this means taking a very long time and usually messing something up in the process.

Any suggestions? Loren?

I know DONCAPECOD done it to his C2, should ask him how it fits.

Xdream, let me know if you have any questions about the fitment. I did not do it myself, but I can give you the name and number of the restoration shop that did it for me. The bumper was new and I bought it from Gert. (and yes, I know the car has not been lowered) :)

Don Cape Cod.

Yes, please furnish me with the information of the shop where you had the work done.

From what I understand, you have a factory Turbo rear bumper that doesn't quite fit perfectly, correct?

Thank you,

Gabo2k

Shop name is:

Classic Coach Works

138 Thornton Drive

Hyannis, MA 02601

508-771-1981

Dave McGraw is the owner.

I think mine was the only one he did so you might have to remind him it was a silver rear bumper for Don Watson. (Incidentally he's the grandson of the founder of McGraw-Hill Publishing, so I guess he does this as a hobby. He's very fussy and expensive. Don't know if you're near him or not

Anyway, in addition to the bumper cover, you will need new exhaust tips and some modifications to the exhaust because they are a few inches closer on the TT than the C2. I don't remember the cost 'cause it was bundled into his painting the back of my sport seats, and modifying my exhaust. I bought the tips from local dealer.

I don't know the supplier, but there is a turbo-look rear bumper for a C2/C4 where the exhaust openings are identical to the C2/4. That way you just need to paint and install. It comes with the air vents on the side and a turbo-loook from the rear. I just don't know if it is poly or fiberglass. They weren't available when I had mine done and besides, I wanted all factory stuff 'cause I'm anal.

Here's a shot of the way the rear (not the sides) of the factory TT sticks out from around the tail lights. It IS flush with the engine cover, however.

Here you can see that the bumper is flush along the engine cover and sides, but as it "rounds" the corner it is about 3/16" out, but vertically it fits well. Hope that explains the difference. Sorry for the size

Oops...sorry, the first pic was just to compare the original bumper.

Thank you Don Cape Cod.

I already have the rear bumper painted and all. So I will call with suggestions on installing it. From what you have mentioned about this guys, I don't expect much help.

Either way, I will keep you posted.

Again, thank you.

I've heard horror stories from people trying to wash their 996 engines.

Also, never use WD40 on any part of the engine. If you need to use WD40, it should only be on a very particular area to take out a bolt, etc. Also, WD40 will leave a sticky film over all the parts, causing dust to stick to them sooner - making the matter worse.

I've also heard of using simple green on parts of the engine, but have not tried it myself, so I can't recommend this.

My suggestion would be to gather a bunch of old rags, lightly dampen them in distilled water, and go over any dirty engine part (when cool). Distilled water will keep minerals from sticking to any surface, thus keeping the engine cleaner longer.

000 044 900 70 PCM2 Retrofit Kit -- Retail $4363.77 (as of Oct 2005)

and you still need a fiber optic cable for your cars options. Check with the folks at Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for a better price.

I guess I'll be skipping this upgrade...

Thanks for the infor Loren.

I know DONCAPECOD done it to his C2, should ask him how it fits.

Xdream, let me know if you have any questions about the fitment. I did not do it myself, but I can give you the name and number of the restoration shop that did it for me. The bumper was new and I bought it from Gert. (and yes, I know the car has not been lowered) :)

Don Cape Cod.

Yes, please furnish me with the information of the shop where you had the work done.

From what I understand, you have a factory Turbo rear bumper that doesn't quite fit perfectly, correct?

Thank you,

Gabo2k

The only reason I purchased it is because I know it's been done before. I just need to know all the intrecacies of the project.