rcg412

My 05 997 has just been in for the very same thing soaking wet door panels... took it to specialist and said it's caused by inner door skin seal degragration.. the water that gets past the outer door window seal then onto the door skin and out through the drain holes in the bottom of the door,well thats how it should work... but over time this inner skin sealant that measures half inch foamfiller becomes brittle and drops out thus allowing water a free run onto door panel,carpets etc steamy windows for the wrong reason..

Porsche know about the problem and my local dealer gets at least 2 a week they replace the whole inner skin £100 per side parts only. and involves window mech removal and air bag disconnect dohh. Got my local specialist to do it he cleaned off the old sealant and used a silicone to re-seal,fingers crossed its stood up to the elements so far he remarked that 997 are bad for leaks seems that after a few years this is common and that the 996 door linings were cheaper better and easier to fix. oh well maybe they will make a proper face to face rubber gasket mod.

Had this on both sides of my 07 997s. Dealer replaced both inner door seals. The door seal is a half inch of foam and comes on part of the panel, the panel is the part that is ordered/replaced. Good luck, Wouldn't lose any sleep over it.

Regardless of the powerkit the solenoid which is a grey item is on the right hand side of the engine and has a small black air line taken from between the manifold on the right hand bank of cylinders. I made up a simple "plug and play" kit that allows you to run a cable back inside the car to activate the PSE via its own switch. This is independent of the 20-40 mph cut out , so the PSE can remain active at all speeds. The simplest location for the switch is either in the ashtray or under the handbrake lever.

The picture below is of a gen 2 997 but the solenoid looks the same. In the picture you posted I'd suspect the solenoid is obscured by the vertical protrusion of the air box on the right hand side

Sorry to be a pain but I looked and I looked and I really couldn't find a grey connector like the one in your picture.

I took a few pictures of the area behind the right air box the best I can (you know how spacious the engine compartment of our car is)

and I hope you or someone can make some sense out of it. Please :help: !!

Marc

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/997-...-a-997-a-2.html

check out post #22... its in a different location. who knew!?!? :)

Team996,

I primarily mean lucky in that I have been able to troubleshoot and eliminate/eradicate all of the most annoying sounds, generally with minimal effort. A lot of the information is here in this forum, in various posts, and many of the fixes can be determined by following basic logic. The most complex projects involved removing the door panels, which is not complex at all if you take it step by step. I have also known many p-car owners who look at me funny and give me the "it's the nature of the beast, sports cars are made to rattle" routine when I share my stories, but I simply cannot accept such an expensive and beautiful vehicle being just 98% wonderful. I want 100%--that's what I paid for. So I figure if I can make that extra 2% happen, then I can stop whining and enjoy the car more, and--of course--help others by sharing my experiences.

Good luck in your quest. If you can't find/fix any of your car's "character" sounds by anything I have listed above, let me know. I may be able to help.

Chris

I am convinced they all rattle and creak - i took it to the dealer and they greatly quieted it down, but it is never going to be lexus vault quiet...

When you said allen and nylon I knew you were in the wrong hole....

That is how you adjust the beams, not remove the headlight.

At our local work on cars days we get to see cars that are on the second and third owners. Sometimes we see a car and the ROUND plug you need to remove to insert a headlight removal tool is missing. If I hunt around I can usually find it because it was dropped behind the trunk carpet. Or inside the trunk. I once found one in the storage pocket for the spare tire.

Second picture shows the tool from the tool kit in the proper hole to unlock/remove the headlight. The factory tool is usually a sloppy fit so I use a 5 mm socket, 1/4" drive.

Be super careful with the included 5mm tool... Mine for some reason got stuck in the hole and I could not pull it out (tried with pliers, diff leverage, everything). I read somewhere here they get caught... after some very careful wiggling it unlocked and I got the tool out... but going forward I use a screwdriver with 5mm hex wrench on it. Very scary.

Hello:

In my 2003 996 C2, with factory installed bi-xenon headlights.

Yesterday I adjusted the vertical adjustment on my left beam as it was too high - pain to do, pulled out assembly and did it that way.

All was easy enough, but when I put the assembly back in and did the bi-xenon dip test (light switch on, then turn on ignition), only the right headlight dips, the remedied left does not. :huh:

Any ideas? I read one post where there is a high voltage wire which could get snagged... Any help much appreciated. Thanks, Ross

The 996 is the right board for the 911. I love my 2003, it has been a great car. Had a 1999, was also great, but hte 2003 just feels better, as it has a bit more power and different headlights.

Went from an 01 to 03. 03 Is great, 01 was great too. Main differences i have noticed isthe 03 is MUCH tighter and a lot more low-end grunt. There is very little difference between 03 and 04... slight tweaks (i believe) from 02 to 03.

I had the same concerns with MY03 Cabrio and then I got a couple of "Oil Pressure Sensor Failure" messages that dissapeared after a few minutes. Now my oil pressure indication is usually very high but it randomly drops to normal and then suddenly back up again. It is the sensor that is failing but I haven't had the chance to have it replaced yet.

Same here... Seems the oil sender unit is finicky - wouldnt lose any sleep over it. Ross

Mike,

My car IS a daily driver and the roads here in Spain vary from utter cr*p to pristine tollroad/(no cops) auto routes :D

I have just changed the tyres (Pirelli: 2x€400) on my 18" wheels at the business end and must say what a diference a new set of rear rubber feels. The car rides so much better!

The fronts have about 5K km life left on them which is now making the car understeer on "commited" corners so they will go soon. The car will feel even greater then.

In short, 18" wheels can deal with the school run no problema in my humble opinion. I have had the car 17 months now.

ENJOY B)

I was in same predicament... after losing two rims to potholes, I use 18s in summer and 17s in winter. Performance degradation is minimal.. Mine is a daily driver.

996.645.333.04 was replaced by 996.645.333.05 which was replaced by 996.645.333.07.

So, 996.645.333.07 is the latest version.

Thanks loren - are these "plug n play" or if i get an .05 or .07 will i need a PST2/PIWIS to recognize it?

Hello:

Can anyone confirm the below part numbers for the Amplifier in a MY03 996 Coupe, CDR-23, with bose hi end and changer system (MOST) are:

996 645 333 05

996 645 333 04

Potentially on the hunt for this amp, and want to confirm the numbers.

Many Thanks, Ross

Not that I want to draw focus from the nitrogen vs air thing, as fascinating as it might be, but what are the determining factors in establishing the ideal tire pressure? Reading this thread I'd have to guess a combination of how the tires feel going down the road, and how they wear. Anything else?

If by feel you mean handling and ride comfort...I think it also depends on what tires: make and size you "wear". For example MPS2s in 295/40-18 I would go pretty close to Porsche recommended 36/44, but MPSC 315/30-18 I would go more 32/40 (and lower on the track).

Why would you not run Porsche Recommended specs???

Its like 15w50 vs 0w40... swear by Porsche there, but disagree on tires?? Dont get it.

what's the favorite around here between Michelin Pilot Sport "RIB" and Michelin PS2

most people seem to go for the PS2... i believe the rib were older... or at least more for the track?

Guys, I am wondering if anybody switched from Pirellis to - say - Michelins or another brand and found the ride to be better...

I find the 18" P-zeros to be incredibly harsher than the Michelin PS2 I had on a previous porsche (also on 18"). They transmit a lot of road noise, go "doingggg" on each expansion joint, feel a little squirelly in general until fully warm, and just ride rough...

Curious if it could be tires, because my old PS2s felt so much nicer....

Yes - I run Michelin PS2s, never going back. Hate pirellis, they are noisy as hell and they wear quicker than any other tire. Have also had decent experience with Dunlop (but only in a snow tire). The French make a hell of a pneu!

May be able to purchase a like new Suspension off of a 2003 C4s. Looks like springs and shocks. Will this bolt on as a replacement suspension on my 2001 C2? Or totally different parts?

Many thanks, Ross

Bnewport: What happened with the warranty company... are they covering it?

Warrentech or Repairmaster are the company and yep, they paid, 9970US for a replacement engine from Porsche with 2 years from the factory. The dealer said the warranty don't do Porsches anymore because of the losses covering the cars.

So far, they paid about 22k for my cars repairs over 3 years. It's covered until 2009 or 72k miles. The most they will pay is the value paid for the car or 46k in my case. Porsche are now covering the transmission or engine for the next two years.

thats awesome... congrats.

water in tank?

Bnewport: What happened with the warranty company... are they covering it?

Mine leaked for a good 15K miles (Probably ~8 months)... then finally cracked (exploded). I drove to the mechanic after filling it with distilled water. The coolant system is 9 gallons (per manual)... and the reservoir holds only ~1 gallon, so plenty of coolant in system to drive 40+ miles when it finally goes.

It cost me $550 to replace the tank and refill coolant at an indy.

First thing to check is your gauge.........they can be off by several psi. Buy a good quality dial gauge - Porsche has one.

Wearing out the center is usually caused by over inflation.......or maybe in your case very high road speed as the center of the tyre does centrifuge out a little further than the sides due to wheel speed and flex across the tyre tread.

As for the Michelin question - look at www.tirerack.com - they have lots of user reports on various tyre brands and this would also be a worthwhile place for you to do more research - pricing will not be for the UK - but once you've narrowed your choices you can shop around for the best Euro deals.

Ditto on the gauge... i know it sounds stupid, but I was overinflating my Pzeros due to a bad gauge... have since bought a new one and it is much more accurate (cross referenced with another gauge).

As far as tires go, i recently put on PS2s (after rossos) and am much happier with them, they handle much better, and are quieter... I have heard they wear better as well.

This looks easy to get rid off... get some Turtle Wax simonizer (i think it is in a white or green case), simonize it over, remove then wax the area... from the looks of the picture it should get rid of the scratch marks... you will still have the texture of the scratch, but the color should be silver. Also, a good detailer could probably fix it. Good Luck! Ross

I am aware of the stupidity of this topic. Anyway, could someone would

be kind enough to tell me if the color varaition is normal?

Thank you.

Zach.

Mine turned green...

Why not forgo the coolant and just add destilled (demineralized) water? :clapping:

I just got the car in the winter and have begun using the air conditioning recently. I've noticed with the a/c on, there is a kind of whiney sound that comes from the rear of the car, engine area, when the car is slowed to an idle. When you have the a/c on at a stand still and give the car a little gas, the whiney sound starts as the RPMs rise. When you let off the gas, the sound continues for about 10 seconds and then quiets down. When you hit the A/C button off ( fan still running) the sound stops completely.

Is this normal?

Thanks,

could be as simple as a belt... when the ac compressor engages it torques the drive belt a little and it just slips... when you give it gas the characteristics of the belt change... Does it should like a belt noise, or something slipping?

Rob,

I took a Cayman S out for a test drive and I agree. It would make a fun track car.

Yeah! I've been tossing around the idea of waiting for a used one so I can buy it and mod it to death!!

As for the alignment, I'm going to look for an indy shop that has the PST2. Because the C4S needs all for wheels aligned it's about $500-$600 to get it aligned at the dealer... that's crazy.

Rob

rennwerke? they seem to do good work.

There is a setting that has to be changed via a Porsche configuration tool. I think it was related to the offset from steering column sensor.

:cursing:

so best to get alignment done at a Porsche place?