royxaxa

my 04CTT could only use around 7 to 8 qts of fluid, I measured the old fluid that I drained. the topic has been covered in one of the documents by Porsche, most likely as TSB. it says 04 p!gs has smaller capacity in terms of transmission fluids. you might want to check out the TSB part of renntech. I have read that before myself. Like hahnmgh63 said, recheck it.

thanks guys, I inspected the bushings today while doing oil change. I think I will hold on to them a little longer.

there are instructions on VW Touareg's , they are the same I think. it involves special hydrolic press to take the old ones out. not sure if it is DIY.

I noticed that the rubber bushing on the front suspension sub-frame are torn.

my question is how hard it is to replace them and what are the torque specs?

it is # 16 in the picture.

thanks

I cleaned up the cowl drains on the weekend. not as bad as I thought.

best way to do it is to remove the wheels and wheel liners. it is kinda cross shaped soft rubber nozzle thingy.

I notice that symptom sometimes on my car as well. only very recently and happens maybe once a month.

thanks for sharing seafeye!

Scott, I was doing the filter yesterday too. haha.

you need to put the rubber gasket at the rim of the tank opening first.

my old filter was really dirty. those "fast clip" connectors took me most of time.

interesting. what is the reason to change that apart from the locking feeling of 4X4, any error code shows up?

awesome. would you post the part number when you get a chance? thanks

I am really happy with my first gen 04 CTT.

there are couple of features on the 08+ models attract me:

1, 4.8 direct injection vs. 4.5 "regular" fuel injection

2, VarioCam+ vs. VarioCam (height of valve could be adjusted)

3, PDCC (check out the utube video, it works like a charm)

4, Pano roof (would be nice but not necessary)

other than that, I do not see any reason to replace mine.

like dgogoman mentioned, CTT or CTTS are awesome cars as long as you want to spend some time doing some research trying not to get raped by dealers. actually a lot of parts on CTT that I have replaced are cheaper than other domestic ones. fast, comfy, tough(i went through some nasty winter storms with proper snow tires, while most of the cars stuck in the snow). my CTT is the only thing that I want to stay with after a fight with wife. :)

i replaced bank2 O2 sensor after the cat. not easy

nice!

so the off-road plate is a metal one?

Loren thank you for your support.

I took apart the connectors near the lower end of the struct.(there are two connectors, one is acceleration sensor, the other is, I suppose, the struct absorber valve) and cleaned them up. the code was gone, at least for one night. I will see if it comes back, hopefully not, and let you guys know.

Roy

Thanks Loren, but 143 and 147 are the same codes?

I am a little confused. :unsure:

Anyone could post the 143 error code diagnostic procedure please

Thanks

The driver side ones are painful need to remove kessy and some other controllers in the way

Passenger side is okay but still pretty awkward

wvicary,

do you mean the big blower motor? it seems that the noise is from behind the PCM system rather than the passenger side foot well.

I changed 3 flap step motors according to the error code from Durametric. it did solve the problem of un-even temperature at front outlets.

let me know what do you think, thanks

Roy

Parked my 04CTT on a slope for the day. started the car in the hot afternoon and the following problem occurred:

air suspension work shop.

Durametric shows the following code:

143 Damping Adjustment Valve front right

Electrical fault

after deleting the code and drive it around, the same 143 code came back again and with another error:

1437 Control Position not learned

No/incorrect coding/calibration

I checked the actual value:

shock absorber valve current FR 0.000A while the other 3 are around 0.04A while car is parked

the level control seems okay and car drives normal.

does it mean that I have to replace the whole front right shock?

thanks guys

thanks Loren, you are the man!

Loren,

how do I tell if I have the off-road stabilizer package?

my vin is wp1ac29p14la90253

thanks a lot!

Roy

thanks Loren

I tried to clear the codes but it came back and my Durametric stuck sometimes. I will try to clear it again.

if I can not clear the faulty codes, what would be the next step?

Roy

Hi guys,

I had some issue with the A/C in my 04 CTT. mostly the noise also some vents did not output consistent temperature.

so I replaced 3 servo motors according to the error code. output temp. seems alright after that. but the noise was still there.

so last month I replaced the control unit. everything seemed to be working in the first week. but now the noise came back. constant squeaky rat running kind of noise.(A/C function works without any obvious problem in terms of air temp and air flow rate)

I plugged in my Durametric this morning and found the following codes:

1042 control module not coded

1087 basic setting not implemented

my question is: do I need to take the car to dealer to re-program the control module? would that solve the noise problem?

please help.

thanks,

Roy

how about the readings from durametric? deviation and actual values. i think deviation should be constant regardless of rpm.

hows the interior of engine looks like? oil change intervals?

I would probably replace the tensioner first. it is around $70 and not too difficult to replace.(still pretty tight)

all that I am saying is that unless you are absolutely sure the timing chain is to blame, do not do it, it is a lot of work and could lead to more issues if not done properly.

are you going to let dealer to do it? or you have some reliable shop. it won't be cheap either way.

another thing, i always hear that 5W50 works better on higher mileage engines, i've never tried it myself. but i did switched from m1 to castrol and liqui moly. the engine burns less oil after the switch. and i am using liqui moly MoS2 now, it seems that it quiet down the engine a little.

I replaced timing chain and guide before because my bank 1 camshaft angle was off (deviation angle at -15CA and the other bank was +6CA I think, the limit is +-6CA)

one of the bigger guide was cracked and the old chain was about 1/4" longer than the new one, that however should not trigger any timing issue, tensioner should be able to compansate for that.

based on your deviation angel reading, i think your timing should be okay, cayenne V8 engines have tapping noise more or less, at least all turbos i've seen has that tapping noise

i would probably start from checking PCV valves(5 mins job, mine was broken), and clean the throttle body. replacing timing chain or adjusting timing is big job. I wrote something before regarding that and posted on 6speed. I did replace all guides, chains, tensioner, gaskets, O rings, starter, water pump, thermostat, cost me around $3k for parts. labor is around 25-30 hours, I did that with my mechanic buddy at his shop, so free labor LOL

good luck and let me know if you need more info

I changed most of the motors because of some cold/hot air issue and constant noise from the dash.

passenger side was easier, driver side especially the A and B were really tight. DIY possible but nasty. you need to remove the kessy unit and other control boxes.

I noticed the driver side mirror of my 04 CTT has the following problems(passenger side works no problem )

• auto dimming does not work,
• no heated function(I tried at winter)
• the small light under the mirror arm does not light up

I could not find a fuse in the user manual for this specifically. and tried to check the cables at the door hinge but did not see any crack or corrosion.

could anyone tell me what to look for?

thanks guys

Roy