royxaxa

just pull it out and solder it. there is no way to spend $1100 for a tiny connector.

worse case if you really want a new headlight , there are plenty of dealer/retailers online and you could get one side for like $700

I have the same problem

they are plastic and should be absolutely clear.

I polished the outside but it seems the fog is on the inside. there is nothing much i could do about it.

I agree with RFM. these Audi always have gradual changes here and there all the time including engine, drivetrain and styling things.

also Q5 2.0T reaches peak torque of 258 ft.lb at 1500rpm vs. 955 4.5 CTT at 2250 rpm

and it is a much lighter vehicle of 4079lbs vs. 5200+lbs of our CTT. that's 1000+ lbs of weight.

the only complain I have for the Q5 is the steering feeling is a little on the light side comparing with CTT and my wife's Audi TT

not sure if i brake forum rule here, I found a website regarding the turbocharger in audi Q5

http://www.driving.ca/research-car/roadtest/Turbo+boosts+delight+Audi/3919198/story.html

it has 14.7psi boost(roughly 1.01 bar) which is higher than our boost meter max 0.8 bar. could that be part of the reason?

thanks mudman, so you suggest to train the computer for aggressive driving? and maybe use the tiptronic shifting from time to time?

I know there should be no match here.

but I was driving my friend's 11 Q5 2.0T with 20kkm on it. the small animal feels so strong and ready. the gas pedal feel is very smooth and turbo kicks in almost instantly on local or highway speed.

my 04 CTT with 210kkm is strong and brutal but it seems the turbo lag is rather more noticeable than that 2.0T engine.

IS there ANYTHING wrong with my CTT? I know there is no code related to engine nor transmission now with Durametric scan. the p!g is bone stock. I really take care of the car with good German oil and additives, always running on 94 gas. Diverter valves were replaced less than a year ago with OE bosch ones.

any suggestions guys? might be a time to get a tune?? or fuel pumps?

I would stick with either 0W40 or 5W40 oil, you could try castrol 5W50. it is thicker.

tell me where you can cruise @ 200km/h in Canada? I would love to be there.

one of the biggest problems of our p!gs is the car runs so fast and smooth and quiet , you thought you were slooow. lol

back to the story, the video is a little loud to me. I've seen about five 04 or 05MY CS or CTTs, all have the tapping noise more or less. but yours is pretty loud. but that might related to where you put your camera, distance to the engine, stuff like that.

I tried some Liqui Moly MOS2 in my 210kkm CTT . It quiets down the tapping.

instead of replacing the engine, or any major rebuild, I would just put some proper oil and enjoy it.

the ECS $9 deal is no longer there. but they offer same pump body for $100 something like that. still pretty good.

I think you need to look under same year VW touareg

installlation is pretty straightforward. there is an instruction somewhere on internet. GOOOle it please

I am pretty happy with their Audi program. but it seems there are not a lot of discussion for their CTT tuning.

anyone?

thx

thanks Loren

thanks Loren. it is better to be safe than sorry, I guess.

another question, do you think fuel filter should be performed as a regular maint or only when there is a problem?

Cheers,

Roy

I plan to replace the fuel filter for my 200k km CTT.

so my question is: should I disconnect both batteries or just the main one under the seat before I perform the service?

I noticed there is a ground wire out of the battery box under the driver seat. I assume disconnection of that one is equivalent to removing the cover of the box and disconnect from there.

thanks guys!

thanks for the reply Stu

apparently mine was broken :(

is this speaker responsible for the turning signal "click" as well?

Does anyone have answers to below question?

With my '06 CTTS I can never get Durametric to scan the Vehicle Electrical System. The program will lock up every time. I have on of the newer cables and use the latest Durametric software. It will Scan every other module except the VES?

probably the best way to find out is to contact Durametric

i had to replace the same T pipe with the hoses when I replaced the timing chain.

the small outlet to the alternator was snapped.

I guess after years of toasting near the engine, eventually all the plastic plumbings will fail. It is just a matter of time.

working4it, that's some hard core job. congrats!

when i did the timing chain replacement and saw the alternator, I was like "hope I will never have to change that" cuz it is so tight down there!

do you think the it will be different on CTT? I am not sure if the pass. side turbo will be in the way.

also did you change the timing chain tensioner? I think it is right above the alternator and only $70 bucks or so.

wow i did not know you could seafoam a Ferrari!

I was trying to use seafoam in my CTT but could not find a proper way to introduce it into the system. I am using the IPD plenum and there is no way to put the red tube in there before the throttle body.

I seafoamed my wife's weekend driving audi TT and boy there was a lot of smoke.

No i did not open the light housing

i managed to pull the other end out of it. bit scary but it worked.

not sure that we are talking about the same problem but I had to solder the wire to the contact on the turn signal bulb.

thank you very much!! im going to tackle this by the spring time. :notworthy:

let me know if you need any help. i am not that far from you on the other side of the Niagara falls. :offtopic:

you can get the calibration tool from dealer.i think it is like $100 or so. it is basically 2 pieces of steel. when you calibrate the camshaft, you insert the steel pieces to the slots at end of the camshafts to lock them in place. this way you can tight the bolts for the camshaft wheels. remember rotate the crankshaft couple of turns to check the angle of the slots with a mirror. we did calibrate 3 times before getting a satisfying result.

I would exhaust all other options before changing the chain. it is a big job. no parts are particularly expensive but there are so many of them. it all adds up.

check the deviation angles of 2 camshafts with Durametrix and read the factory service manual. next i would probably change the chain tensioner.

also if you just want to calibrate the timing, you do not need to remove the chain and the chain cover at front. only the valve covers are good enough. only challenge is probably the access to crankshaft.

I did notice that the new chain was about 1/4 shorter than the old one. but i do not think that will result a P0016 code. the play of chain tensioner should be able to compensate that.

good luck

Roy

I did some research when i had P0016 code. it seems the sensors are pretty reliable. you need to remove the secondary air pump to access them. it is pretty tight there but not impossible to do.

regarding the P0021 bank 2 code, it could be a big job

mine was P0016 which was same problem on bank 1

plug in your durametric and check the camshaft deviation angles. they should be around 0 at idle and the limits are +/- 6 degrees(it is measured at crankshaft angle so the actual camshaft angle is half of that). if it is out of the range, it would throw out a code. and the car could have rough idle. mine was +13 at bank 1 and -5 at bank 2

swapping the camshaft sensors of bank 1 and 2 did not change the readings. i also replaced the timing chain tensioner.

so long story short I opened up the front end, calibrated the timing(you gonna need a special tool for that), changed the timing chain and all the chain guides(one of them was actually cracked in the middle), all o-rings, and gaskets that I could see. also water pump, pulley, thermostat, and starter, some broken hoses/vent lines. parts was about $2k-3k. and we spent about 25-30 hrs total.

after that everything was okay.

I have a more detailed write up for that on 6speed forum under the name of zzzx990.

hope you do not have to do the same. good luck

Roy