royxaxa

my 04CTT had 3 coolant leak

1st time was the T behind the engine

2nd time was the expansion tank (mine did not fail at the seam/joint, rather, it happend at bottom of the tank only visible under pressure, you might want to check it out)

3rd time was the small relief valve at the bottom of the radiator. it is a blue plastic plug thingy on passenger side. not directly visible under the car. I think it was hiding behine a metal piece if my memory serves me right.

pipes were replaced by previous owner.

btw, i saw on youtube last night the guy put food powder near suspected area and detects the leakage, I think it is pretty smart.

good luck

i replaced the rubber ones last winter. it was aluminum inside. and mine was rusty and bubbling. it was like $70 a piece. took me about 1 hour each side. they call it window trim or something like that

not sure if we are talking about the same thing though :oops:

thanks guys for the response.

I called the local dealer today. the parts guy told me I will have to install the DVD drive under the passenger seat and lots of wiring. and will take a lot of time to do it.

I know people did that themself and wired the whole thing and it worked.

to me, I just need the audio part working. and I do not want to do any extensive rewiring.

also he mentioned that all the interfaces are different, which I highly doubted. the only visual difference I noticed between photoes of 2.0 and 2.1 are just the GPS module at the bottom. I mean why would Porsche design the whole thing again just to use a DVD drive instead of CD?

I will try it anyways. will keep you guys updated. should be an interesting topic.

Hi guys,

My 04CTT PCM2.0 (with fiber optic BOSE) decided to stop working again. traced to board level, found a shorted capacitor and a filter transformer. still not working.

I would like to get a PCM2.1 unit since 2.0 ones are hard to find now. and this is the second 2.0 that I replaced. I doubt there might be some design issue with 2.0 ones.

only question here:

from my understanding, the GPS function would not work since 2.1 is DVD rather than 2.0CD

but would everything else, eg. audio. trip computer work? I do not really care about the GPS function but I want my radio back.

thanks guys!

thanks Loren

does Plug C refer to the air quality sensor plug?

my 04 CTT always makes squeaky noise from behind the PCM head unit. I dd some research and it might suggest a failing motor somewhere in the system. and I heard it is really hard to get to those motors so I kinda give up there.

however when I replaced the cabin filter last weekend under the glove box I noticed that there is a motor there connecting to a cup shaped valve behind the AC blower with a short plastic rod. and no matter I start the car with or without AC, the motor was always busy adjusting the "cup valve" with that short rod. that makes quite a bit of noise constantly since the motor is on and off on and off none stop.

now my question is: could a failed air quality sensor(I DO have a code regarding the bad air quality sensor) near the windsheld be the reason? my guessing is if the AC does not know the air quality/temp outside, it does not know how wide it should open the "cup valve" at the blower motor. so it constantly adjusts it.

any suggestions are appreciated. :)

oh the code is

1592

air quality sensor

short to ground or positive

no signal/ communication

present

my problem was from the connector to the headlight assembly. over time with viberation the whole headlight become loose. i changed the plate and it solved the problem.

B in the photo is not critical i think. D is the spot that gives up over time.

the plate is like $70 each side. there are 3 screws holding it to the car

connector C should be always on D facing forward

I do notice that after switching to castrol 5w40, my 04CTT burns less oil than mobil 1 0w40

interesting also local dealer in Toronto is now recommending Castrol instead of Mobil 1

not sure if it is only commercial thing or there is solid engineering/scinentific reason behind this

and I know someone use 5W50 in hot season since it is thicker in working temp.

thanks for sharing, i actually read the first tread before. but it does not cover the version P of 710 family

there is another discussion somewhere on the passat forum and they belive that the P version is weaker than the N version.

I am not going to chip the car in near future so I suppose the P version is okay for now. and dealer price is pretty resonable this time.$29 each

just got the part from dealer

it is the P version not the N version

P/N:06A-145-710P in case someone need it later

Does anyone know if the updated OE p/n 955 110 710 01 is Bosch "710N" (bosch p/n:0280142114 or xxx110, VW p/n:06A-145-710N) or not?

it seems that people here prefer the piston ones but VW/Audi guys think the bosch 710N ones are equally good. and it is much cheaper too.

thanks :)

I had -35C when I was in Ottawa. It was really nasty.

Wvicary, hows the winter there in Regina?

Toronto was okay but the car starts really noisy at some -20 days.

mine was broken when I did the timing chain job.

i replaced the T with a copper fitting from Homedepot. lol

well, M1 is not a "poor" oil, what i meant was there might be better alternatives with less cost. and I want to keep the car running for maybe another 200k.

the theory behind the thicker oil (at working temp) is that when the engine has higher mileage, parts has bigger "gap" and thicker oil helps to maintain proper lubrication

i did not see solid comparison proof behind all these assumptions for the type of oil. 0w40 or 5w40 might works just fine.

however I did witness a lot of positive results with lucas stabilizer.

I replaced the timing chain, all the guides due to camshaft angles out of spec but i do not think oil was the problem.

I did not "bake" the sensor on highway. but I did try to "burn" it on my driveway for a short period of time.

I will scan the OBD2 and see what happens.

thanks wvicary

my 04 CTT is hitting 200k KM pretty soon.

I have been using Mobil 1 0W40 all the time. But after talking to couple of local P car indy shops and doing some research online, it seems that M1 0W40 does not have much advantage over other brand, expecially when it is no longer 100% synthetic any more. and with my mileage, I might need something thicker.

I do have access to the Liqui Moly 0W40 and 5W40, both are 100% synthetic. So I was thinking about using L Moly with some Lucas Synthetic oil stabilizer(which makes the oil thicker). I saw it worked on other cars and quite down the tapping noise dramatically.

any experience with this combination? any input is appreciated. :)

I used a bottle of STP fuel system cleaner and the code was gone, almost 3 weeks now.

could it be a dirty O2 sensor?

I will keep monitoring.

thanks guys for the advice.

I will try that this weekend and keep you guys updated. thanks a lot!

wow thanks Loren that was fast!I will check the wiring first..

happy fathers day!

mine was actually cracked on the bottom after i replaced the pipes and the T and I thought the T went off again LOL

I am having these codes recently. I wonder anyone can help me out

P0159 O2 sensor circuit slow response bank 2 sensor 2 - upper limit value sxceeded, test conditions are not completed, fault is not currently active and is not causing a DTC light

P0160 O2 sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 2 - no signal/communication, test conditions are not completed, fault is currently active and causing a DTC light

it seems that I have this problem only when the humidity is high, either rainy or hot and humid. and it will be gone on sunny days.

the car drives normal. I could not feel any difference.but the CEL is annoying. I checked with duramrtric and the sensors have readings.

Should I change the sensor? is it hard to do? or is there any other way to fix it?

thanks guys!

The way I read my link, was that was the actual full replacement assembly. Is it not? I am pretty mechanically inclined; is this a DIY kinda job?

Whats the best place to buy a Durametric

Thanks again for your help!

i bought the pump kit from ecs, couldn't belive the price. looks brand new to me. and it includes the piston oring and the screws which sold for almost 200 at VW dealer.

put it in, problem solved. be careful when you hook up the air hoses. i had leak on one of them and had to redo it. the whold thing is located at the passenger side under the doors.

use some soap water to check for leakage after you done.

it is a diy job but if you have access of a lift, that will make it much easier.

hope that helps

Only hiccup was the five extra minutes I had to spend cutting down the allen wrench to get it into the tight clearance for the front diff.

ha, i thought i was the only one that has to cut short the allen