beety

Another way of using a 'jump-station' or extra battery is to connect the negative to the door striker and then apply the positive 12v across both legs of fuse c3 in the fuse panel - this will also give the alarm etc enough power for you to press unlock quickly on the keyfob & pop boot/ bonnet etc.

This worked on my my98 boxster - you will then have to purchase a new battery - lead-acid batteries do not tolerate being less than half-full very well - you will probably have damaged the plates and it will never store the charge it was designed to.

There doesn't seem to be any water directly above the battery compartment - it seems to purely be confined to the area sealed by the weatherstrip e.g. the luggage compartment roof - very bizarre....could the heater/ water drain points be responsible for this. I have had this compartment open with engine running and there's no obvious steam coming from anywhere (peeled back carpets etc.)....is this just a quirk of the boxster when the weather gets cold outside?

In my experience the Bosch ones don't have the same curvature or the number of spring points for the blade to contact the screen as the OEM - and this leads to the well-known squeal time arriving early. The porsche ones are only around £19.99 from a dealer parts dept and don't squeal...worth the money for ear-pain free motoring in the rain!

Maplins sell an aerosol product called 'Label remover' which seems to dissolve adhesive quite well and clear off scum. A few blasts of this left to soak in makes it very easy - even using floss will leave behind some 'tack' which you will need some of this to remove prior to attaching the new emblem.

Why would my front hood be dripping with condensation - noticed I had lost some coolant - beginning to think one of the front rads or coolant lines has started to leak? Recently had my front A/C condensors replaced recently - could this be linked somehow?

Save your time and wrists fellas - just pop them in the dishwasher with a normal Finish tablet (take bulbs/ wiring loom/ harness out) on a cooler wash.

Is there a 'hard' reset button under the fascia of the CDR22 - hit this will a sharp point to reset the headunit and hopefully the re-initialisation should get it talking to the changer correctly. Worth a try...

It also doesn't help if your car is parked on a slant during heavy rain - I have found (here in Glasgow - where it rains like hell!) that a slanted car can overwhelms one of the drain points under the clamshell even if it has no blockage - leading to the carpet getting slightly damp. Overall answer - garage your car else things are going to get wet in torrential downpours!

Zimmerman's are very prone to rusting on the inside face. This will cause judder at high speed and yet remain unnoticed at lower traffic-type speeds.

This emphasis the old routine of padding brakes after washing etc - do some hard braking if you haven't used the car for a while etc.

You should be able to skim them back into life at an independent porsche specialist.

I'm having similar problems - and boy does it rain in Glasgow! Passenger seat well gets damp (not soaking) after downpour - although I have manually inspected the roof drains behind the seats and they seem clear. I am going to clean and check the foam water paths that guide the water into the roof drains for damage.

Could this be climate control related....where does the condensation line run from in a UK car (driver or passenger side)?

I always use NikWax UV proof - another camping-type treatment that waterproofs & UV protects fabrics. Always pour the stuff into a bowl and paint it on the top with a paintbrush - otherwise it'll run off the top all over your paintwork if you rely on the spray!

http://www.postfreeoutdoorgear.co.uk/acata...x_UV_Proof.html

Anyone had the problem of a really squeaky and noisy AC compressor? Everytime I select the cool A/C function I get squeaks and rattles from the engine compartment - they go away completely when this function is deactivated and the compressor clutch disengages..?

If the dummy lights on the dash come on - then it looks like the electrical system is okay - seems more likely a security issue e.g. your engine immobiliser is not happy with the keyfob and is blocking supply to the starter etc. Was just if you had bad earths, this leads to battery discharge and low vehicle voltages in various circuits.

Porsche keys have an inductor which has a stored code inbuilt - this is picked-up by a coil wrapped around the ignition barrel, the immobiliser will only allow the car to be started if the code matches that in the security unit (under passenger seat).

Hi there,

could you answer a couple more points about the problem to help people diagnose?

(i) do the diagnostic bulbs light on the dash when the ignition is turned during the problem?

(ii) have you got more than one set of keys you can try e.g. the transponder coil may be broken to deactivate the immobiliser?

One immediate thing you could check is the main earthing points on the car are clean and well connected.

Sergio - I also own a 1998 Ocean blue Metallic boxster 2.5. I can potentially shed some light on your problems based on my experiences:

(i) Vibrating steering wheel - if the car has sat for some period of time - the brake pads can corrode onto the disc, this manifests itself only at speed e.g. wheel wobble at over 50mph and shudder under braking (this is not really noticeable driving around town)

(ii) Ball-rolling sound is probably one of the cables that has come unclipped from the ball joints in the roof mechanism - you'll need to put the top into service position and pop them back on - or even replace if one has snapped (as in my case)

(iii) I had a really annoying rattle from the drivers side of the dash nearly all the time the car was in motion - managed to track this down to the trim cover over the wing-mirror adjustment control working loose - try here first.

Hope this helps.

There is an easier way - if you have a 12v battery-pack for boost starting cars. Use key in door as usual and then carefully peel open door against rubber seal as windows won't recess. Apply the 12v positive across the terminals of fuse C3 (alarm control & windows) and attach the negative to the door post - now press the central lock on the keyfob - hey presto olenoids will unlock from trunk levers.

Most of the time - before you notice your MAF is failing, the car has been running too rich for such a period that it will inevitably kill the O2 sensors as a knock on effect.

Sounds like your rubber engine mounts have shot. This causes extreme vibration as you say and a possible 'clunk' when you corner hard.

Sorted now - MAF had gone bad and both lambda sensors were reading out of spec - all replaced and it now drives like a new car. No hesitation and no banging harshly into 1st and 2nd gears!

Loren - this car has 67k on the clock, could the O2 sensors be on the way out - would this cause the flat spot/ hesitation at low revs?

CJ - I might be having a similar problem - see:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=11330

Seems to hesitate low down the rev range in gears 1 or 2. Pulls away nicely as the accelerator goes down - then has a flat spot, then kicks in as it is depressed further. Done all the obvious i.e. cleaned MAF with contact cleaner, ran a tank through with injector cleaner - still upto it's tricks - could it be a stretched accelerator cable?

1998 Boxster 2.5 - Manual