pk2

In my experience hoses can get bloated like that when exposed to oil. (Probably plenty othere rasons too). However it got there, ditch and replace them and plan on clean scale from they're aluminum males. As to youur coolant, it needs to be dexcool compatable an a minimum. Xerex make the best I've seen, they claim Porshe compatability

Regards, PK

I'd agee with tool pants, Take it to an autozone type place. I'm going to guess somthing is grounded to some degree and is drawing on your battery. Sinse it happend during or after an accident, I would guess the prob. is result of somthing being bopped into somthing else electrical or, the shop put it back together wrong. Other wise, quite a coincidence.

The good folks at Autozone will be able to tell but, an easy test is; if you turn everything in the car off and disconnect the pos. on you battery, tap the lead on the terminal, there thould be no more than little crackly sparks. If the battery is loaded up (somthing awry, like a ground) you'll get a pretty hardy spark.

Regards, PK

As long as you still have hair on your chest your good, not to worry. Did the starter try to move? shouldn't have got a huge spark if you hit the right terminal.

PK

You have to find out if the motor turns at all.

Now that the serpentine is off you have to get a big socket wrench as txholi4life said and try turn the crank. it's not easy but if you can torque it around a bit (1/2 turn or so), this is a good sign.

If your starter isn't even clicking, you also may not be frozen at all. It is located on the top of the engine towards the rear firewall. You can take a known, well charged battery, run jumper cables to it. Clip the ground to the block in the vicinity of starter and stab the the red lead at the large cable terminal on the starter. If it does nothing, you have 2 problems; the starter and ??.

When you jump the starter as described, make sure there are no gas fumes or puddles of in the engine bay.

Regards, PK

At 65 or 70 it's probably adding a little to stabillity , 100 more so. Comicaly, when porsche introduced that concept way back when on a carraa I think, they tuned it down for the american market from 65 mph to 35 mph...make sure are friends,neoghbors and, strangers were impressed before you hit the highway. Did absolutely noything at 35.

Try it though, Theres a switch by your left foot you can put it down mid flight (I belive). Report back

Pk

everything but. But you probably want to pop that vertical pannel off (think it just snaps on) and see if you broke a retaining flex finger or someone just popped it out of its seat. Likely someone didn't have the hand brake or clutch in and kept pushing the button hasrder and harder trying to get the top up.

Regards, PK

You spin a fine yarn but I'm afraid I'll have to take a delux combo (diet coke please). Asuming your starter makes a click but refuses to budge dosen't bode well for finer steak houses in the greater fort lauderdale area.

What I would do is systematically detatch all the devices that run directly off the engine to make sure they are not frozen and causing your prob. (kinda wishfull but...). Use a big wrench on the front of the cranck to turn Start easy, removal of the front serpenten belt will rull out A.C, P.S, alternator, etc. Next, the starter and whatever else that might be up there. Lift it up and turn the back wheels se that there are. loose. Sinse your probably still frozen, last hope is to separate the motor from the trans incase it is frozen.

Oh yea, no pickles on the deluxe.

Regards, PK

Technicaly, you should be able to pop that little pannel out and if your electrically inclined at all, you should be able to wind the thing down by crosing some wires. Trick is, I don't remebeer exactly how it pops out. Porshe likes to turn snap fits into puzzels. Lose and you broke it. But, I think you have to replace the whole pannel anyway so...

Regards, PK

Forget all the details of that thing.

Worst case pop the seat out (4 bolts...search this forum for how to) figure whats happening and yes you can get manualy move it, may require some diassembly.

Use needl nose plyers and try to turn whats left of the handle

That whole panel pops out (forget how but I have on laying atound). If you have a wireing diagram or DMM (volt meter, you can figure out how to jump the circut .

Put the top down and sit on a pillow.

Happy thanksgiving , PK

Roger 2x.

Falcon what gear? what rpms? wouldn't a load calculation of some sort be in order thats translatable to normal driving be helpful? Is it a question of load or rpms?

Regards, PK

I don't think there is any further diassembly possible. Generally diassembling this sort of bearing is not recomended or advisable. Generally.

PK

Agree with Jtexas, knock it around. I was going to suggest borrowing a floor jack (kragen, auto zone) get it off the ramps , start it up and inch it back and forth. Maybe even jolt it by poping the clutch a little.

Regards, PK

Not quite sure I follow. Your keys are in the frnt trunk? If you reach under the front bumper right in the middle you should feel a cable to pull. I f you can't get the door open to release (?) the hood, there are locksmiths who can pick thiose locks, give you the code etc. I had it done here, just callled AAA and toild them what I had and they sent the guys withew skills..

Regards, PK

Maybe it's somthing like a good old fashion analog electrical prob. Like a bum relay, motor, connections, etc.. It probably shares some of the security stuff with the doors, But theres a lot they don't share. The 2 doors share a reciver and an activator, the truck has its own reciever and activator.

Still odd that the other guy around here didn't have the problem till he replaced his blackbox. The first thing to do is probably find the electric trunk release and put 12v on it and see what happens, work on back.

Regards, PK

Thanks for the reply, I see your point, activation of one door lock does them both, so why not the trunk. I unfortunatly got to replace a lost key recenly (the hard way) so I don't think its the button..

Someone just posted they had to rereplace the securirty box under thee seat (usual) and the trunk no longer works. Last time I did that it was revalation to the mechanic to take it out of transport mode. Who knows.

Regards, Pk

Thats, a good question, I've soaked my alarm thing several times. My trunk dosm't work either. I know not every mechanic knows you have to program the lights to come on when you open the door, maybe the trunk ia a similar thing.

Regards, PK

Loren,

Are you talking a bout retraing? Do you think that would work with my trunk which does exactly what kfh2818's door locks do.

Not trying to hijack, it just seems to be very related and might benifit others in they're understanding of the whole remote thing.

ZPk

Rodger,

I was real nervous about these issues some time ago. The conclusions I came away with were;

1) *** peter said, the more milers you have, the less likely it is to be a problem. (and I was feeling so lucky to only have 35k) Apparently the magic number is around 40k. There are few broken hearts after that.

2) It would seems to have little to do whatsoever how you drive it, warm it up, etc. Happens to the nicest, caring & most consensus people in the world.

3) There is no hard data, only anecdotal. People have had to run poles and the like over the years but there’s no really accurate way to run a decent study. Porsche keeps a very tight lock on what must be the best evidence.

Regards, PK

weird, some plasic internal part that is deteriating? dipstick tubeee...rubber "O" ring...dunni

PK

Sure it could be a relay. Theres one or ttwo in the trunk relay tray. I'd start at the scource first and work your way backwards following the wireing diagram. Jump the starter directly, that is, run jumper cables from a (your) battery to a ground on ther block and hit the terminal on the starter with the hot lead and see if it crancks. Next the relays, , take it (them) out and smack it on the drive a few times, see what that does. Then follow the relawiring harnass back and at evert plug/connector and work them around to insure a good connection.

An easier way might be to have someone hold the key in start positionand go around to every place on the wire diagram that has some sort of conack and give it a fre smacks or jiggles, se if on routinly responds. Also, don't asume the clutch micro is ducky, just jump the to wires together and eliminate any ambiguety.

Have fun, PK

Lorens right I'm sure but, a "hunting" at idle can be a classic sign of an air leak, If your hereing a sucking I'd certainly have a look. Just about anything that can leak is on the top of the engine. Quite a coincidence though.

Regards,pk

White smole is usually water as in water in your combution chambers. Oil usualy burns blue out of the tail pipe, and black out of the tail pipe means its running to riche. should have CEL wich will tell you a thing or 2

With a big oil leak you could be leaking on to the exhaust naifold,,,don't know the color but I know it stinks. Sounds li 2 problems maybe. Leak and rough running. You miust have a CEL.

PK

Pk

A lot of corrosion indeed.Take it off clean all the corrossion off an out of the hose. Chances are fare that you'll find the end of that hose showing some age. When you remove the hose, have a fair sized tub to catch the coolant. You can also bend the hose up, clamp if you can to minimize the drainage.

Puff of white smoke after a few idle days is normal.

Regards, PK

2x Tj. I forget where they are but usually it's putting the car on jacks stands, use a floor jack to lift the trans/eng a bit, unbolt, pop out and in with the new. Anyone who wants $1700...well, I wouldn't necessarily trust his evaluation.

Regards, PK

Not exactly sure of your plans (sounds like fun though but) I fint routing wires back to front , under the back carpet panel, right under the center console assembly (Not hard to take out). That puts your wires right out behind the radio.

PK