pk2

All the relays for stuff up front are way up above your fuse box. Engine and the like are stashed in a slideing tray, hidden away under the left rear fender, assessable from inside the back trunk.

Regards, Peter

If it's surface slime, all of above, If it has penetrated the surface, I'd contact Maquires and ask them what the 'ef. There are some animal fats of some sorts in some leather "rejuvinators" that can permanently scar poly carbonate. But I wouldn't think a cleaner would have it.

Regards, PK

Didn't someone accidentally start his car on fire with a broken dip stick tube? Not sure if I read it on this forum or another.

I doubt it (unless he tried really hard... just being a moron doesn't qualify) . Oil is really hard to start on fire, even when it oozes directly on to the hottest part of your engine, the exhaust manifold. What's in the dipstick tube is oil fumes, just what's steaming around in your crank case,

Not sure I'd risk that failure for a mere $30 part.

Yes, stick with the genuine proven goods.

Regards, PK

Couple of wierd things I've experiencein part because My car sat in a rice patty overnight long ago and part in messing around with everything.

1) The imoblizer can work partiality

2) The Pill in the keyfob is not necessary to keep the motor running, only to start it (go figure)

3) You can bump start the car (put above observation together with this fact...???)

3) It's really easy to jump the starter with jumper cables from the (a) battery (even though it probably won't start). You can rule alot out doing this (bad ground for instance, the obvious, starter motor doesn't work, wherever else it takes you)

4) Convertibles leak, I've had a ton. Wet electrical contacts get corroded and stop making sufficient contact. Some time you can see it; green or white fuzz, sometimes you can't. Sometimes they'll even show a voltage but there's no current. Flickering lights is a great indicator.

Anyway, use your logic and a wiring diagram, with those fundamentals you can follow up allot of tangential "if/then's" and derive alot of information aside from the obvious.

Regards, PK

Hey, the guy asked for an alternative. Besides, I'd be done and off driving, scaring small animals, while you were rolling out your floor jack....after waiting for 3 days, nose pressed against the the picture window, waiting for the mail man. (grin)

PK

You wom''t hold it togeter wirh a dab of epoxy. You might epoxy a "sleve" around it. That is, find some hose a couple inches long into which the dipstick pipe slides into fairly snug. Coat both ends of the pipe with a flexible epoxy. Slide the pipes into opposite ends of the hose...mayebe bpt some zip ties on it..

PK

You might do some research on them here. The conclusion I came to was Porsche got it pretty good with there stock headers. People dynio'd different headers over the years. With headers alone they might give you 5 hp...or steal 5+ hp.

I'm a little skeptical that a single set of headers could possibly be tuned for all motors, 2.5L - 3.2L. That an over 20% dif. in the airflow & pressure. There's just a lot more involved than equal length pipes....a little finely tuned back pressure, the right amount of scavenging, and lots of other stuff I don't fully understand.

They're shiny though.

Regards, pk

Did they put it on a PS2?. THe car runs?

The ecu can get funky a little wet and half work. If it was damp down there you should take it out, open it up make sure it's dry inside.

But your right, if your lock(S) are groaning that can only mean two things 1) At least one is physically jammed up. 2) you have a bad connection, corroded or otherwise (I think it'a a wee damp over there no?). It just can't draw the necessary current through a grimy connection.

This could be any thing from a wireblock/connector, relay contacts, connectors, fuse, ground wire connection, etc. Cleaning these contacts can be as easy as pulling them apart and pluging them back together several Times. Follow the juice, jeck every junction along the way.

Regards PK

Regards, PK

Funny thing, according to my Porsche dealer, my car is a fake or something...to many digits.

PK

Were it a vacuum leak around and injector as mikefocke suggested....

PK

Do you mean oil came out of the spark Plug Hole? I thought those seals were to keep crap out. I can't think of a good reason oil would be in there, let alone why you would want to keep it in there with a seal. Oil in the Cylinder may be the result of you AOS failure. I don't know cause I never messed with one (AOS)...Loren would certainly know

I cant' think why putting a tube on would be a big deal. Plugs; you should get rid of the NGK's (they were listed as combatable no?) But unless they're way out, that should not keep the car from running.

Again I don't no if oil in the cylinder is a symptom of a blown AOS but if so, take the plugs out an check to see if they are covered with oil. If so leave them out and crank the motor to see if you can pump spit some oil out.

Regards, PK

It's been a couple weeks, and it has started flawlessly, so I can state with 90% confidence that it was the clutch-interlock switch. Unless anyone out there has a compelling reason otherwise, it's my intention to leave it bypassed. There's a whole Federal Government now dedicated to being my nanny, so perhaps if I'm dumb enough to grind my transmission or drive my Boxster through the garage wall, I'll qualify for a bailout. :rolleyes:

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In litigious times all I can say is I bypassed as much of that stuff I could long ago. Just not worth it to be stuck. I also hacked the electrical top. Can be a pain to be wrenching on your handbrake trying to get the parking light ro come as it starts to rain.

As to the any nanny state I believe these are global feature (nanny world) In this country did you know due federal and state cutbacks (since Regan) a student driver requires something like a mere 24 hours of instruction to receive a license to drive/kill? In Germany it's something like one year of intensive regular classes at cost to you of around 15k to you. It's a wonder Porsche doesn't supply a Michelin man like airbag suit for the cars headed.

They've been successfully sued by an 100% at fault, very drunk woman, durring her first time behind the wheel of a Turbo Carrea. Almost put Porsche out of biz.

PK

Haven't fixed it but I have the "bug". My indie guy said iy doesn't do much and you can reach up under the dash and unplug it. I'd rather fix it if it dosn't involve taking the whole car apart. Be interested in your reply.

Regards, PK

Where is the solenoid? if you can see it, can't you yank it out?

I wouldn't recommend using starting fluid of any type. It's not worth the risk of engine damage. Can you check for engine RPM while cranking on the Durametric?

Should try it sometime. In my experience, a quick little 3 second, 1500rpm blip on ether pretty much pales in comparison to what your motor goes through screaming around the track at 7k rpm's for hours. Lot of heat, fatigue, twisting, torquing, clashing, gnashing, back and forth, round and round, 720,000 times in that 2 hour romp. Starter fluid is more like put, put, put, ...75 times with little load.

Regards, PK

Thanks PK2 - I tried the starter fluid and it will not fire. So I assumed it is electronic. I then spoke to "the man" at Rennshop and he is pretty sure

it's the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Just ordered one should arrive Friday. I'll update then.

Smart move, starting fluid first instead of checking a plug for a spark. 2 birds.

So the theory is, the position sensor (electronic (?)) gets effected by heat and stops working. That would stop your spark allright, fits my (dicey electronics spaz when hot) scenario to... sorta.

I don't know what might be special about a Porsche sensor or circuitry to and from it. Someone one can set me straight because there usually isn't that much to these sensors to go wrong (or weird). Why does it (the sensor) work fine and run the motor normally at 100-180, but then suddenly freaks & stops working as soon as you turn it off for a second.

So, all that has happened is: Sensor gets'warmed up + quick power interruption= instant, comatose sensor.

I guess dicey electronics can do any thing...

Regards, Peter

You might want to see if you really have a spark (just ask the guy at checkers how...ahem) . But really. the most direct method is to take a plug out , put it back on the coil/wire, dangle it away from an thin vaporous and flammable and while someone cranks it over to see if it sparks. (you can also do it without removing the plug with a timing light on that plug wire (don't know if that works with coil packs though, same goes for one of little the spark tester pen). If it does you have a fuel problem. If not, trace the circuit back to it's orgin testing al the way.

If you have a spark (I'm going to be flamed for this) spray some starter fluid in to the throttle body mouth, crank it and see if it kicks a bit. If it does you have no fuel supply.

Either one, no spark or it won't kick narrows the possibilities 50%. I'm guessing it's electrical, sensor related, or possibly a screwy security box. Electronics can get screwy with heat. Essentially, over 100 degrees a signal is being sent saying to the dme, "don't spark" or "don't inject while cranking". Part of the security box/system keeps the car from starting but, won't necessarily keep it from running once started.

One weird thing is at least one part of the security immobilizer circuitry is only active (disabling) while cranking Once the engine is running though, any thief is good to go. Case and point, the ignition key immobilizer; Start the car up and if you could remove the head or pill from the key, while running, it will keep running, all day long but, it won't start again till the head or pill is back on. Then once running you can do it again.

So check for a spark, fuel and you have half as much to ponder. Also remember dodgy electronics can be heat sensitive to heat and start throwing out bad signals, Like some sensor on the block.

It's early , food for thought...

PK

Last though; If all the mobilizer stuff works the same as the key, running it on starter fluid for a couple seconds may be enough to get it out of mobilizer mode and let it keep running on it's own. That will tell you more.

Regards, PK

Don't do it.

PK

P.S. I'm a designer.

23mm? I thought Porsches limit was 20mm, the reason being tha anything bigger was hard on the wheel bearings. You difinitly wouldn't want them up front unless your compensating for a funky offset.

So, put on the back , have fun, Regards, PK

Id' say your on the right track. Does the light flicker is you jiggle the face plate around?

PK

... But, on the website, under "engine" it wasn't that in-depth. Maybe 40 or 50 links. Same for just about all of the other groups...

Very interesting either way.

Isn't that wierd, more space devoted to changing a lightbulb than tearing the engine down. Truth is though, I rebuilt a 928 v8 once and all I needed was the torque specs and a knowledgeable guy for advice (who also happened to be selling me parts.

I'm doing a motor right now with a 20 page manual and 2 pages of torque specs.

Very interesting indeed, PK

That would all certainly make sense. A pretty painful lesson. Thanks for the tip off.

Regards, PK

Very astute on the pressure plate. Did you happen to ask them how they maneuvered the bearing holder back/ims back in line.

Regards, PK

1Z (or Z1) Silber is also a good match. Wurth clear is compatible.

PK

Try Amazon

pk

He's asking about changing the heat range of the spark plugs. Why would anyone alter from the factory rating?

Your right, it was late, I was pissy. sorry. In his defense though, this dewy eyed guy just got sold the latest line of B.S in the history of sparkplugs. I'd not heard this one before, to low a temp...indeed.

Ya gotta give the credit for looking before he lurched. Searching before you post is certainly proper etiquette but man that can be a pain if you don't have the particular forums syntax and the magic keywords. Get ready for war and peace.

Regards, PPK