pk2

Huh, Thanks for that heads up. I had assumed they would have all been the same... sort of generic. I'll have to look into that.

Regards, PK

EDIT: From what I gleaned from Wikipedia it seems that while over the years there have been different propellant concoctions, sensors, bag deployment sequences, sensor data manipulation etc, etc, for my purposes it just boils down to the electric "match" in the bag. Thats what starts the explosion sequence in the bag. The differences in the "matches" are weather they're 1, 2 or, 3 amps used to ignite them. I'm not sure why Porsche would bother to change that amperage but who knows. PK

Does anybody know if a 988/997/Caymann steering wheel will fit a 986? The main issue to me would seem that the spline pattern and diameter fits the steering shaft & that the wheel is about the same depth.

All input appreciated

Regards, PK

Some functions in these things need a "reboot" .Yours may be included. Thats disconecting the ground for 10 mins. or so. You probably will need the above mentioned radio code to.

Regards, PK

ALSO, windows can require a resetting trick of holding the buttons down (or up) in some sequence (detailed around here somewhere). Logic says top might require something similar though I've never heard of it.

I have a Rockford Fostgate. I believe it's a completely standard size and it fits perfectly. You might want to double check.

Regards, PK

Why not. In general super glue is not your best bet. Epoxy of some sort (5min) with a a well scuff up (50 grit) backing piece of plastic will serve you far better (scuff up the mating surface of your broken part to).

Regards, PK

BTW nice wheels...size? brand?

Don't know your ECU/turbo is managed but your tuning map is flashed into a rom.. The information is either there or it's not. Theirs nothing in between. I don't think disconnecting the battery will do anything... but won't cant hurt.

Good Luck,

PK

You have to be specific and as observant as you can. walk around the car and stick your head everywhere you safely can. Engine hatches off, doors open, hoods open, etc

-Tell us where it coming from as exactly. (front, back, leftish, rightish. etc)

-does it get faster as the engine speeds up

-Does it only happen when it's cold...hot, does it ever go away at idle.

THere are a million things that could do it and a w-pump wouldn't necessarily be my first choice.

Regards, PK

I know this topic is covered somewhere but I’ve searched everywhere…noluck so Can a 03 top be transplanted to a 99 box (I guess frame andall)? If so how difficult is it?, what’s involved

If it can Is there a DYI out there somewhere (Maurice)?

Regards, PK

Ya I'm not sure how it might look either. But in principle the only '99 stuff left would be the dash and center console and both of those could be reupholstered in part and gussied up a bit (gear shift knob, gauge rings). Just looking at my options.

Thanks for the reply, PK

Has any body shoehorned a 987 interior into a 986? I want a replace my 99's thrashed interior with a newer, nicer interior and want to explore this option. As I see it the newest interior (04(?)) that would snap right in would have 7yrs of wear, tear and weathering (and it will get a lot more out here in the sunshine state).

Part of my business involves proto typing stuff from scratch so mods to door panels and the like would be pretty easy for me. Below is my guess as to what would easiest (one star) to most difficult (5 stars) to adapt to my car:

Carpet *

Seats * ½

Door panels ***

Center console ****

Dash *****

So I probably wouldn't mess with the center console or dash unless some one told me it was relatively doable or had a DYI. I think I'd stick with the carpet, seats, & door panels

Thoughts, have you done it? am I missing anything?

Regard, PK

P.S My 99 only has 40k, it's fast, and looks great but the interior is trashed (tops seldom up, nite & day, 9 months a year…so cal, what can I sayl).

Very moving remembrance really, I almost cried.

R.I.P. PK

Your problem Is of course either electrical or mechanical. If electrical heres some advice.

My dad was a literal rocket scientist. His best budy was one too with an I.Q up in the stratospere. They taught me this little tric and it works about %40 of the time for me, so I evangelize, spreading the good news (grin)

Alot of electrical problems are due to poor connection, loose or corroded. Follow the wiring harness as far as you can in each direction (lock to black box and where ever else the circuit goes). Pull apart every connector and reconnect at least 5 times. Doing this will scrape of invisible corrosion that opens the circuit keeping it from working. Check it to see if it's working every once in awhile as you go along.

ALSO, if your immobilizer got wet (black box under drivers seat) all sorts of havoc can be wreaked. Reach down there and see if the carpets wet. If so, get the immobilizer out , opened up and dried out... You might save it. I think I'd do this firs

Others might have other ideas but this is one to check on mysterious electrical problem.

Regards, PK

P.S. any break in the circuit from the button in the car, dor handle could wreak havoc. Ignition switch can also be a fair bet.

Highlow, i checked your website but i only want to buy it if i can open it when i drive without the need to put the parkingbrake on ...so i guess its not for me..

Me to or will it work with the handbreak hack?

also, how much does this rely on the existing top stop switch circutry/logi. Mine is sort of screwy.

Regards, PK

I think all your problems a the result of your system not being bled all the way. There is an official way to do it but I simply fill it up all the way, drive it about 34 of a mile where the temp gauge is getting close to the red (and which happens to put me right back at my house to). Then let cool down some, top it off and do another lap putting it close to the red again (and in front of my house again), and top it of again etc. It takes about 5 laps.

Regards,PK

Look forward to details.

PK

Pop in some detailing forum or something and contact the manufacturer.. I've always been very dubious of these product( though I've seen them work well). THe problem is the materials used in car interiors is not easy yo get a paint to stick to (on a molecular level).

Regards, PK

You most likely have corroded pins in the conectorsI usually, "fornicate" (for lack of a better word), the male and female plugs many times. That is, pull the female and mail plugs apart and put them back together repeatedly. This rubs off corrosion on the pins where it counts. This should only be a temp. fix but I've seldom had to touch them again. You ca also pull them apart and use a small brass wire-brush to clean them up.

Regards, Pk

Also check your battery terminals and cables. They should be clean and tight. Untill you sort it out you should have a decent charger (have one around anyway). It'll charge a new battery in about 20 mins.

Regards, PK

There a whole different animal.

Regards, PK

Don't know for sure but winter tires may have a harder tread compound making them more susceptible to any road irregularities like hard soled shoes, they won't catch you with a misstep. The solution might be to have your alignment checked. your normal soft street tires might be hiding some imperfections in your alignment. among other things, poor alignment can' make for a twitchy car.

Regards, PK

Weak lifter?

PK

Another possibility is you have high resistance in the low-beam circuit. Since it's both bulbs it's probably not the bulb sockets (what are the odds) but maybe the switch or any other electrical connection both bulbs share.

Regards, PK.

These things have a habit of cracking the tank back there. It's not always easy to see the crack or where the juice goes. If you do a search you can find out more. Your car probably runs hotter at idle than it does buzzing down the highway making a higher pressure build up forcing the fluid to pop the cap (above, goes to the flood gate theory) or squeeze out the crack. Also if your low on coolant your temps will build up.

I would keep driving around with an eye on the temp gauge. and check the coolant often.

Regards, PK

You probably have a bad connection or disconnected wire from your sensor (on the cap I think ) or the float is stuck. pk

You have to look at the perspective of the posters; an individual is working from a sample of one, a shop is looking at it from a sample of many. The individual will always see their perspective as "overwhelming evidence" for their opinion positions, which is totally understandable.

How long the clutch lasts has several dependencies; the driver, the environment the car is normally in (city vs. rural driving), is the car tracked or not, is it driven in the winter snows, etc. etc. Some drivers easily go well over 100K with the factory clutch; but most don't. We often have had to pull a clutch for other reasons (RMS update, IMS issues, transmission problems, etc.) only to find very significant wear on the disc in the 40-60K range (worn down nearly to the rivets). Would these assemblies continue to work in that condition? Most probably yes, but for an "undefined period of time".

Thanks JFA always appreciate your input.

I am not arguing for the stupidity of saving $200 for an extra yr of blind bliss clutch wise , only to have to do 90% of the work done again the next year after things have compounded, rivets ground into the pressure plate etc. For me it's only a calculus, a little arithmetic and informed judgment. Bucks a buck. If I've worn off 30% off the clutch in it's 37k-11 yr. life, odds are the clutch is probably going to out live the car under my feet. I don't use the clutch much, get the car rolling and match RPM an MPH, brakes are cheaper than clutches and sychros, the engine doesn't care much which direction the strain is coming from... I.M.O

Of course these are anecdotal, the comments' here (though no-ones piped in with"40k and my ef'n clutch's gone!" (unlike the steady droan regarding whole motors elsewhere here)). I have to consider any shops observations as anecdotal to, albeit to a significantly lesser degree but still not really a scientific sampling…but again who cares, the clutch is going to be what it is. II'll make the call when I see it.

I'm planing to do it myself at this point, sure taken on worse. Self employed, recession, healthy dose of experience and horse sense…'nuff said? Based on a longish absence from this kind greasy stuff, some uncertainty regarding of the IMS/RMS stuff, and some naivete with regards to this fancy sounding pressure plate, I'm thinking a weekend…

How long the clutch lasts has several dependencies…with the factory clutch; but most don't. We often have had to pull a clutch for other reasons (RMS …only to find very significant wear on the disc in the 40-60K range.

Interesting, I'll find my case when I measure it. i'd wonder from my naive position if the IMS threw oil all over the clutch making it slip and chatter and look very very burnt like main seals used to do in another life, but that's a divergence

… An interesting data point .. Jake Raby quoted a little over $3K on another website for everything, .. including before and after dyno pulls.

Interesting indeed! Wonder the significance a bearing and a few seals(out of hundreds) might be for someone's dyno numbers? If there's any at all, I'd think someone has had they're thumb on the scale…no?

At the end of the day, it is your car and your budget, and you have to determine where the economics are in your case…

I'll add creepeconomics. "if your going to have heart surgery, mys well do the kidneys, lungs, gallbladder, etc. while your opened up."

Thanks and Regards, PK