alpine-al

... Where are you guys finding batteries or are there any recommendations?

Walmart. Get the H7.

Cool. Glad to know that Darren is a member here.

Trivia: There are 700 Renntech members with names that begin with "F".

You can find extensive discussions about this muffler modification on other forums. Go to the 997 section on 6speedonline.com and/or rennlist.com. It is commonly referred to as the "gundo hack" and the "fister" exhaust.

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Two weeks ago, I replaced my water pump and thermostat as a preventative measure on my 2007 C2 with 70K miles. Even with the DIY instructions from a few of the forums, it took much longer than I expected (~10 hours). One of the seven screws on the WP is very difficult to access even with a variety of sockets, universals, and wobble extensions. And one of the four screws on the t-stat is even harder to reach, which could have been easier if I had removed the adjacent exhaust header but from past experience that can open a worse can of worms (exhaust manifold bolts break quite easily). I have a full lift, so I can only imagine that the project would have been worse if I had to do it on my back. The cost of the Laso water pump, Motorad thermostat, gaskets, and 2 gals of coolant was $300. Oh, the plastic impeller on the old water pump looked perfect and the bearings sounded fine.

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On the web, I read they don't make any for 3.8L porsche engines

I noticed that too. K&N only lists an intake for the 3.6L GT3. Maybe that version will fit on the S and non-S 997.1, but the K&N intake will not mate with the the duct in the rear deck because the shape and loction are different. Because of that mis-match, the K&N would suck in hot air from the engine compartment as well as some of the cooler air from the duct. As you know, the snorkel on the stock factory airbox mates directly with the duct and draws only outside air. Cool air provides better performance than hot air.

I don't doubt that this type of intake changes the sound of the air intake system, which is an integral component of the 997's roar. It might even slightly improve the torque and HP at higher RPMs - if it is neatly connected to the duct in the rear deck.

The dimensions of the airbox, the size of the inlet opening(s), and the size of snorkel(s) are directly related to the volume of fresh air needed to produce the desired engine characteristics (torque, HP, sound, etc.). Likewise, the factory exhaust system is sized to match the volume of combustion gases. Neither the intake system or the exhaust system were intentionally undersized if they we properly designed to produce Porsche's desired engine characteristics.

Reducing flow restrictions in both the intake and the exhaust can result in measurable improvements (20 to 30 HP) although it is an expensive path to take ($5 to $6K). The engine characteristics (torque, HP, and sound) can be improved by increasing the dimensions and efficiency of the intake system (airbox, air filter, throttle body, plenum) and increasing the dimensions and efficiency of the exhaust system (headers, cats, mufflers). Enabling the engine to suck in more fresh air and to blow out more exhaust seems to improve the torque, HP, and sound of these engines.

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Be aware that many parts departments sell both a "Genuine Porsche" water pump as well as a Laso brand water pump (sometimes referred to as an OEM). The Laso is usually $50 to $75 less than the Genuine Porsche water pump.

From what I've read,

• 997.1 3.6L engine is the M96/05
  
• 997.1 3.8L engine is the M97/01
  
• 997.1 3.6L GT3 is the M97/76
  
• 997.1 3.6L Turbo is the M97/70
  
• 997.1 3.6L GT2 is the M97/70S
  
• 997.1 3.6L GT2 RS is the M97/70R
  
• 997.2 3.6L engine is the MA102
  
• 997.2 3.8L engine is the MA101
  

Note that most car batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls Inc, including Walmart's EverStart Maxx, Autozone's Duralast, Advance Auto Parts' AutoCraft, and Interstate batteries. JCI also makes many original equipment batteries and they own Optima batteries too.

A C2 with tiptronic will have a center radiator to cool the transmission. A C2 or C4S or C2S with a manual transmission is very unlikely to have a front center radiator. Instead of the center radiator, you will see a black plastic piece.

Have you tried this:

Your noise might be caused by a broken clip or a loose piece of wire behind the rear wall panel (the horizontal panel below the rear window). It is is part # 997 555 081 00 and is held in by 4 or 5 metal clips (aka "fixing clips"). If you can get a tool or your fingertips under the lower edge of the panel, then you can pull out the panel. Don't be surprised if one or two clips break. Replacement clips only cost ~$2 each.

Take a look at this link: http://www.autoatlan...5-08/807-05.php

I have seen the same "Check front left side light" message a few times after washing my car. I'm not sure of the exact problem, but it usually goes away after I tap or jiggle the left side marker, left fog/parking light, and left headlight.

When you wrote "I scroll through the onboard computer menu", were you referring to the screen in the center console or the little screen under the tachometer? Usually, the TPMS can be displayed in the latter by moving the the lever below your turn signal lever.

You can download the PCM manual from the Document menu button at the top of this page.

I removed a Kenwood Sirius satellite radio receiver installed by the prior owner. I found that the Kenwood box tapped into the existing am/fm antenna cable behind the PCM. It fed the satellite radio signal into the factory system in that manner because there were no auxilliary inputs on the factory radio. The factory unit antenna had a male/female coupling - so it was simple to remove the "Y" tap and just reconnect the factory am/fm antenna without the tap. If yours is similar, you will have to remove the two side panels from your front console, then look for the black coaxial antenna cable. You should find a Y-connector, which you will simply unplug and then reconnect the standard antenna cable. No cutting is involved. Then, try to trace the others wires from the satellite radio (power, ground, infrared remote, etc.). You can either disconnect them (best) or cut them and tape the ends. After I removed the satellite radio, my AM/FM radio signal improved noticeably.

And, like yours, the Kenwood box had a little Sirius antenna stuck on the dash that was connected back to the box by a thin wire. I cut the thin wire and pulled it out.

I can't speak for the orignal poster, almoncius. After reading that his Tiptronic upshifts slowly when in manual mode above 7000 rpm, I suspect that his car might have a problem.

By design, in automatic mode and at higher RPMs (like above ~ 5500), when the driver lifts his foot off the accelerator pedal, the Tiptronic S does not upshift (say from 3rd to 4th) for several seconds. As a result, the RPMs will be high and drop off gradually and then it will upshift after several seconds (unless the driver stomps the accelerator again). This is by design. It's not a malfunction. And, if you are used to driving with a conventional automatic transmission, it might feel and sound very strange. In contract, a conventional automatic transmission will upshift right away when the driver lifts his foot off the accelerator pedal.

I think that I was wondering the same thing when I first took my 2007 C2 for a test drive. Here's what I dug up.

Here's an excerpt from the owner's manual:

And, here's an excerpt from the sales brochure:

Hmmm... this is not my father's Oldsmobile.

I've read that "GT Silver" matches the 19" Carrera Classics. I bought some on ebay, but I haven't tried it yet. If you're interested, look for "Porsche 911 Carrera M7Z GT Silver Metallic Professional Touch Up Paint Kit".

Water is a byproduct of the combustion of fossil fuels.