Flat6speed

Hi JFP. Where is the purge valve located?  Is it under the intake manifold or is it up inside the front fender? It there a easy access point that I might be able to get to? 

Something to add,  my mpg is not good (18 mpg with normal driving) and I notice a loss in horsepower. 
 

Also on occasion I notice a strong smell of gasoline when I park the car after fueling up. It usually goes away after I put a few miles on the car. This happens about 1 out of 20 times and only when I fuel up. I’m not sure if it’s related to my problem or not. 

What’s the easiest way to check the purge valve? 

Oh sorry. 2000 Boxster 2.7 manual. It has about 170k miles. 

I know this topic has been covered many times. I keep getting these codes after driving about 20 to 50 miles. I have replaced several parts going to the intake for small leaks after smoke testing numerous times. New MAF sensor and new OEM AOS. What’s left? I have not checked for leaks for the fuel evap portion. And I haven’t looked into the fuel system yet. What’s my best approach from here? 

Ok I replaced the pre cat O2 sensor on bank 2. Since doing so I haven’t gotten a CEL or any faults on the Durametric. I keep checking the Ready Status with the Durametric and haven’t gotten the Catalytic converter efficiency to show pass yet. All others have passed. How many miles does it normally take to get that one to pass too? 

I have P0150 and P1128 codes. I have checked the resistance on the pre cat O2 sensor and I get 3.8 ohm and no shorts to the sensor housing. I have the same results on bank 1 and bank 2. I’ve searched for vacuum leaks and have found nothing so far. Any suggestions?  

So I ohmed out the O2 sensor on  pins 1 and 2 and got readings of 3.8 ohms. I got the same readings on both the pre cat sensors. Does that mean they are bad? I have some different codes today posted below. 

Ok so my CEL came on again today. I’ve been trying to get a long enough cycle on the car to pass emissions. I think this time it’s something different then the problems I had before replacing my AOS. Those errors seem to be fixed. Is this something as simple as replacing my O2 sensor. I replaced the secondary O2 sensors not too long ago. Are the O2 sensors the same for pre and post cat?  I’ve attached a image of what my Durametric showed. 

1 minute ago, JFP in PA said:

The IM Readiness sensors have not yet reset in the DME, and yes, you will probably fail emissions until they do reset.  You need to put some miles on the car to get everything to reset after repairs and code clearing, that is a trap the EPA built into the OBD II system to prevent people from clearing codes just before going for the emissions test.

Ok that’s what I thought. Thank you!

I have a question about passing emissions. I replaced my AOS yesterday and have not had any CEL or any codes pop up. Today I hooked up my Durametric and checked the ready status. Below is what it showed. Does this mean it’s not ready to pass emissions? Do I need to drive the car more until everything says Pass before I go get tested? 

Got it!  Thanks again for all your help!! Much appreciated 😊

Sorry I miss read my gauge. It reads in Hg. I read about 1 Hg of vacuum. 

Could it be my AOS?  I tried hooking up a vac gauge to where the oil cap is and it looked low. Less than 1 inch of water. 

Ok. These are what it shows. Good/bad???

Ok my p1128 and p1130 codes came back up. I tried to capture some info on my Durametric. Hopefully I got right information. I’m not sure what are good/bad numbers???

Quick question. I read the AOS can give the CEL mentioned above. I pulled the oil cap while the car was running I can tell there is a vacuum pulling at the cap. Not huge vacuum like where the cap is difficult to twist and remove but definitely a vacuum. I’m not sure what’s considered normal. Should there be no vacuum at all or is this normal? 

p1128 p1130 p1119 came up today.  What are the most likely causes of this?  This happened right when I started the car up today.  I had driven the car for about 100 miles after resolving the VarioCam issues and had no CEL during that time.  The car runs smoothly.  Should I clear the codes and see if this was a fluke?  Is there something my Durametric can tell me?  

Scott

Thank you 

So if the mileage is stored on the instrument cluster PCB is there a chip that can be swapped over from the original to the new cluster it keep the mileage correct? 

I’m sure this topic has been covered more than a few times. I’m having issues on my 2000 2.7 manual Boxster with the LCD readings. I have tried to replace the LCD displays several times and have had poor results. If I buy a used instrument cluster and install it will the odometer read the true miles of the car?  If not how can I get it right? 
 

Scott

Problem solved!! Hallelujah!  So here’s a brief overview of what happened. As I was undergoing this adventure of replacing the cam chain guides my original problem was 21 deg deviation on bank one. I set out to replace the guides. Both sides had badly worn pads. The car has 160k miles. Bank one went fairly straightforward. When I got to bank two one of the pads was completely gone and the chain wore through the metal boot that holds the guide in place. I ordered a used assembly from eBay and when I transferred the solenoid over to the new hardware I missed a tiny spring under the plunger. The assembly could not do its job without the tiny spring. There’s a guy on YouTube called Man in a Garage that covers how the thing works. My cam deviation is now 3 and 2 respectively!! Mission accomplished and saved $8k for a shop to do it!  Thanks for everyone’s input and help Renntech!!

I attached a photo below of the worn out assembly. 

So I’m still trying to figure out why I have 23 degrees cam shaft deviation on bank 2. Could this be that my solenoid for the variable cam system gone bad?  Does this car need to be driven so the car can reset itself?  With the Durametric software I see I can activate the solenoid. How’s this work. Does the car need to be shut off?  Did I mess something up with the installation of the cams? I had the motor TDC on bank 1 and installed the cams and then I rotated the crank 360 and installed the bank 2 cams (that’s how it done right?). I noticed the chain pulley bolts to the ISM are almost exactly where they were so I thought I must have installed everything back as they should be. I need help😟

I did it 2 times. 

Yes.