Flat6speed

Hello all, my right bank has skipped a tooth on the cam. I’m going to install new chain guides with the engine still in the car (I know many people recommend dropping the engine). My question is do I need anything more than the hold down tool that goes on the end of the cams? I see some people using holding blocks that keep the cams inside the engine. I’m trying to understand why you would want/need those if you need to remove the cams along with the solenoid in order to replace the guides?   Any feedback is greatly appreciated. 
 

Regards,

Scott

Hello people, I’m wondering if anyone has used the Stayfast convertible replacement top?  If so how has it held up and does it look like the oem version? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. 
 

Regards,

Scott

I have a 2000 2.7 Boxster.  The top is not working.  I have disconnected the drive to the top as is in need of complete replacement and was manually putting the top up and down.  However recently I'm getting a warning on the dash about the top.  I'm wanting to defeat the sensor for now and get rid of the warning.  The sensor at the main latch (the one by the top of the windshield) is working correctly.  Where are the other sensors located?   

Thank you

Scott

I'm guessing an oil change is first to look for metal?  

What should I see during a compression test? Does this mean dropping the motor to replace the parts?  And how do I find the part list and the cost of the parts?

OK, here is what I got on the cam shaft deviation.  I contacted my local indy and he said I have some serios decisions to think about if the cam has slipped a tooth.  The cost of the repair probably exceeds the value of the car especially being it needs a new top.  I'm not sure what to do.   One thing for sure is I will have a Boxster in my garage one way or another.  If I decide to unload this one then I will probably be looking at a 2005 model.  I've seen them for as little as $15K.  What are your guys thoughts? Should I save this car or should I sell it and buy a newer one?

Thank you guys!  I will check it out and let you know what I find.

Well thank you for everyone's input!  I guess I will have to hook up the Durametric again.  Does anyone know how I go about checking the cam  timing? 

I did clear the codes and drive car briefly and what's above is what I got for codes.  The CEL was flashing.  IMS bearing was replaced with LN Engineering bearing about 50K ago. Its running rough and has lost some power.  I'm about to pull the plugs.  Now I'm thinking you might be right about the cam tensioner jumping a tooth.  How much work is this?  I'm fairly handy but I've never torn into this engine before.  

My 2000 2.7 manual is running rough.  Hooked up my Durametric software and here is what I found. I cant imagine all three banks going bad at the same time.  I plan to pull the plugs, replace the secondary O2 sensors, oil change and a lot of other things that are due.  I did order a replacement spark plug coil in case that is the issue.  What are your thoughts?

Does anyone know what the PN is?

Thank you JFP

I have a 2000 base Boxster with 5 speed manual transmission.  One of the ball joints on the linkages popped off. This caused me to limp home with only 3rd and 4th gear available. I popped the joint back on but I was wondering if there is a clip missing the holds the linkage in place? The linkage that popped off was at the top in the photo.  Its the one that runs vertical.  Does anyone know the part number for the clip if that's what is missing? 

Thank you,

Scott

The problem is gone for now.  I have no idea what happened. 

Ok JFP,

P1118

Porsche fault code 4-Heating power O2S behind cat. c. bank 2

P1117

Porsche fault code 14-Heating power O2S behind cat. c. bank 1

P1130

Porsche fault code 361- Oxygen sensing adaptation

idle range bank 2

P0139

Porsche fault code 17- Sensor aging behind cat.

conv. cylinder (1-3)

P0159

Porsche fault code 23- Sensor aging behind cat.

conv. cylinder (4-6)

Scott

Ok, so what do these new codes mean?

Thank you Mikefocke for the great info on how this all works.  I knew the purpose of the catalytic converter but now I better understand how it functions.  I need to check some readings with my Durametric, hopefully I find a solution.  

Are you talking about this cap?

It smells like coolant and is way to much liquid to be condensation.   

Here's a better picture and I circled the drain pipe.  Just forgot to rotate it so the pipe is pointing downward. 

Scott

2000 2.7 Boxster w 150K miles.  I have some sort of coolant leak. Its coming from a drain tube located by the rear passenger side.  Any idea where this drain tube leads to?   The tank in the rear trunk looks fine. The cap and pressure relief valve are fairly new. Please see attached photo.

Thank you,

Scott

More questions here.  I'm trying to figure out exactly what's going on.  I've done a little research about catalytic converters and how they work.  I've also started looking at actual values on my Durametric software for pre and post O2 readings.  What should I be seeing? I know these are vague questions but I'm just starting to learn about this stuff.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Scott 

If it is the pre-catalytic converter that needs to be replaced, what will need to happen?  Does this mean I take it to a exhaust shop and they remove the old one and weld in a new one?  What typically happens in this case?   

I have a 2000 2.7 manual with 151K miles.  The car has been running fine but shows a couple of CEL error codes. P0430 Code 45- Cat conversion bank 2 and P0420 Porsche fault code 40.  What do these codes mean? And what is causing them?

Thank you,

Scott

I have a 2000 base Boxster that I'd like to fit with 19x8 F and 19x 9.5 R factory Caymen S Lobster Claw wheels.  I once had a 2003 Boxster S and put the same wheels on. I did have to use a 5mm spacer and longer wheel studs up front if I recall.  Does anyone know if I can do this on my 2000 Boxster?

Regards,

Scott