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Dntlvet

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Posts posted by Dntlvet

  1. I sure appreaciate this forum and the advice of Loren and other experienced members.

    Does 911 Turbo designate a specific model? Sorry, I'm a bit uncertain.

    Price$98,990 Get ePriceClick Here .Bodystyle2 door ConvertibleEngine3.6L H-6 cylExt. ColorGrayMileage7,468Stock NumberP10290AAVinWP0CD29948S788280.

    What can you do to evaluate & Negotiate price.

    Go to Autotrader or Edmonds?

    Thanks for all advice.

    I hoped I'd get suggestions about the 08 911 turbo CAB but as I read my own post, it was not very good. I was looking for suggestions on how I can evaluate the car and decide on an equitable deal. I am an older beginner in the Porsche.

    I am not familiar with this car and hoped others would comment about their experience, what they would look for.

    I have driven a 2010 Cerrara 4S and liked it (not a vert). Not a turbo but very nice. Price about equal to this 08 turbo CAB.

    Should I play it safe and purchase the newer car with warrante in trade off for performance and the CAB? I don't really need a CAB but see it as a bonus.

    Is this garage queen a car to consider or should I look for a CPO? This car is at a Porsche dealer. I don't know if others have negotiated service or warranty rather than price.

    Ideas from others appreciated.

    Turbo's are kind of funny when it comes to price. You will see a similar year and mileage and a crazy variation in price.. I think that $98k for the car you mentioned is too much. How many miles are on it? It is cab though which demands a higher price. I bought a 2007 TT coupe with 38k miles with all options (including ceramic brakes) for $76,000 last year. I absolutely love my car...:clapping:

    I would definetly try to get a CPO car. I have a CPO on mine and although nothing major has happened it has paid for many little things and my dealer really takes care of me..

    I would shop around and look everywhere to get an idea of what an average price is for the car you want. Be patient.. There are a lot of Turbos out there and take a look at the 07's as well.

    Good luck

    This car has ~8,000 miles, with red brakes not the yellow ceramic brakes.

    Great to hear you love your car. Yes, I will wait for the right one.

  2. I sure appreaciate this forum and the advice of Loren and other experienced members.

    Does 911 Turbo designate a specific model? Sorry, I'm a bit uncertain.

    Price$98,990 Get ePriceClick Here .Bodystyle2 door ConvertibleEngine3.6L H-6 cylExt. ColorGrayMileage7,468Stock NumberP10290AAVinWP0CD29948S788280.

    What can you do to evaluate & Negotiate price.

    Go to Autotrader or Edmonds?

    Thanks for all advice.

    I hoped I'd get suggestions about the 08 911 turbo CAB but as I read my own post, it was not very good. I was looking for suggestions on how I can evaluate the car and decide on an equitable deal. I am an older beginner in the Porsche.

    I am not familiar with this car and hoped others would comment about their experience, what they would look for.

    I have driven a 2010 Cerrara 4S and liked it (not a vert). Not a turbo but very nice. Price about equal to this 08 turbo CAB.

    Should I play it safe and purchase the newer car with warrante in trade off for performance and the CAB? I don't really need a CAB but see it as a bonus.

    Is this garage queen a car to consider or should I look for a CPO? This car is at a Porsche dealer. I don't know if others have negotiated service or warranty rather than price.

    Ideas from others appreciated.

  3. I had a very nice test drive yesterday of a 2011 Cerrara and a 2010 4S.

    The 4S was very much enjoyable. Quick cornering made this car stand out.

    I prefer Mannual but both were PDK.

    I liked the PDK and the paddle shifter option.

    The sports exhaust was ok.

    I'm not sure I understand the sport chrono option (benefits).

    Tomorrow I will drive an 08 911 Turbo that is NOT a CPO with under 10K miles.

    What do I need to know about this car?

    The 08 Turbo is priced the same as the 2010 C4S (<1,000 miles).

    2010 has warranty turbo does not.

    How do I verify the 08 was not over rev'ed?

    Thank's

  4. Very nice! I rode in a very similar car around Sebring, and it's an outstanding ride.

    You don't have to join a car club to do track events, but it helps to get involved with one to find out where events are going on.

    Joel

    Here is a good place to find DE and other track events:motorsportreg.com

    http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/calendar?utm_source=msr-calendar&utm_medium=email&utm_content=toplink&utm_campaign=Jun11

  5. I sure appreaciate this forum and the advice of Loren and other experienced members.

    Does 911 Turbo designate a specific model? Sorry, I'm a bit uncertain.

    Price$98,990 Get ePriceClick Here .Bodystyle2 door ConvertibleEngine3.6L H-6 cylExt. ColorGrayMileage7,468Stock NumberP10290AAVinWP0CD29948S788280.

    What can you do to evaluate & Negotiate price.

    Go to Autotrader or Edmonds?

    Thanks for all advice.

  6. It is a fantastically fun car and that looks to be a fine example. :thumbup:

    There are a ton of 1999 cars still on the road with no problems whatsoever. Some say the 1999-2001 mark 1 M96 engine (while it has it's faults - porous blocks, coolant starvation, scored cylinders), is a little beefier having 5 chains and a dual row IMS bearing than the 2002+ models with 3 timing chains and a single row IMS bearing. These cars like to be driven hard and not kept in a garage as a beauty queen. A 1999 car with such low miles would scare me a little, but not completely if the PPI came clean.

    That being said, in a great PPI scenario aside from the normal things like service history, accident damage, carfax, flooding, smog (requirement depending on where you live), etc, I would have the following checked. Unfortunately the cost of all of these things might scare the typical owner away, you would probably pay a reputable shop in the neighborhood of 3-4 hours of shop time to have most of these things completed. (in a "dream" PPI scenario removing the transmission would add another 4-6 hours and not a huge payoff for most).

    These are the critical areas I would check out:

    Ask the owner if he's kept the oil topped off, many of these cars burn oil at a regular rate by design.

    Engine compression, leakdown, endoscope

    Inspect oil & filter (oil change) - check for abnormalities, excessively leaking areas

    Condition and level of lube in transmission

    Condition of coolant (correct color, hydrometer, electrolysis, no leaks)

    Check the computer for DTCs & abnormal camshaft deviation values

    Check for smoke at startup (water vapor is OK, anything else is not)

    If a problem arose in some of these areas it would not scare me off, but I would want to address them quickly:

    Ask the owner what MPG he gets, if its in the ballpark 17-19 street & 23-27 highway that is a good sign things are in good nick.

    Remove oil filler cap with engine running, should be able to remove easily

    T/B inspection for excessive oil deposits (a little is ok)

    Condition of clutch

    If the transmission is removed in that dream scenario:

    Check the clutch and flywheel.

    Check the crankshaft for concentricity tolerance

    Check the condition of RMS seal & IMS flange (or short of removing the transmission at least check for excessive oil leaking near the bell housing mating area).

    Bonus inspections would be:

    Removing sump plate and inspect for debris

    Check for vacuum leaks

    I would ask is the PO if the following have been done (if they haven't and it runs OK, I would budget $2-3k to have them done by a reputable shop, you'll enjoy years and years of worry/trouble free motoring if you do):

    RMS gasket replacement ($20 part)

    IMS bearing retrofit ($400-800 part)

    Air oil separator replacement ($150 part)

    Water pump replacement ($250-300 part)

    Good luck!

    Thank you for the wishes of good luck.

    I am very impressed with this useful reply.

    Perhaps I am better off going to a Porsche dealer to reduce odds of big problems.

    If I go for a PPI and there is 3-4 hrs of inspection, we can be sure they will find some work.

    My gues this PPI will cost ~$500-700

    If the extra things are done ~$1500

    What is a fair way to approach the price valuation @ $26,900?

    Appreciate all advice.

  7. I have three BMWs and I'd like to consider a new to me car.

    http://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/2369744218.html

    This is a local car.

    1. What do I sak owner (service history, accidents, accidents)

    2. What do I expect to pay for PPI and what approximate costs and what needs to be done?

    3. Should I be looking toward a newer car with newer technology?

    4. What might I expect.

    Thanks, this is my second post

    I appreciate your advice.

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