ASpec818

A cel recently came on and when I popped in the durametrics it read:

p1276

Porsche fault code 22 - Oxygen sensor ageing Delay bank 2 below limit value

p1126

Porsche fault code 356 - Multiplic. mixture adapt. lower load range B.1:

What do these readings mean? I'm assuming I need to replace an o2 sensor?

Actually I do hear the fan if I listen closely on the passenger vent side. I was also able to pass smog today with flying colors. To my surprise , it also didn't fail any visual/functional tests. I'm glad I didn't replace the cat as I initially thought I needed to due to the P0430 CEL.

You can use the activations menu in the Durametric to (attempt) turning on the secondary air injection fan with the motor off. You should definitely hear it in a quiet area. It's pretty hard to miss in a loud area, lol.

Activated the secondary air pump via the Durametric software and it's functioning. Sounds like a fan alright. However, I don't think I ever noticed that fan/pump come on during startups.

I also tried to activate the Electrical switch-over valve Secondary air pump and all I heard were ticks every couple of seconds in that area. Everything sound normal?

Anything else I can check using the Durametrics?

In California you can only have 2 monitors in "not ready" in order to pass. So if you have 5 readiness monitors, 3 must be good.Also you can't have a check engine light on.If the codes you have do not set the check engine light, and you have enough readiness indicators then it is possible you can pass a smog test.Some of the stored codes might cause a fail though...That being said, per the previous suggestions - post the DTC's (trouble codes) you read from Durametric and someone can help you determine what is wrong.Since it sounds like your SAI system has a problem it is possible you won't be able to get enough of the readiness monitors to go green."Start engine, idle cold for approx 2 min, 10 sec's."This is the method you can use to start the SAI system routine. Starting the car cold will trigger the SAI pump to inject the necessary oxygen into the exhaust until it reaches the appropriate temperature and then it can shut off. There's nothing you have to do for that to work ordinarily, it just happens on every cold start whether you want to or not (on a properly functioning system). What Durametric is probably telling you is that your SAI system probably has a fault if it keeps asking you to do that test over and over.I believe Loren posted a screen cap yesterday of those monitors, and there is also a great thread here by Tool Pants about his ongoing saga to pass SMOG.Edit: I also suggest taking a few short drives if you've recently cleared codes to make sure they don't come back before you take it to get smogged.I can't remember if you can do this with a Durametric, but at least with a PST2 you can do "short tests" which allow you to run the OBD readiness checks without driving the car - say for example if some of them are not set - which might be useful if you've recently completed repairs or disconnected your battery.

So I have 4/5 readiness monitors good, except for that secondary air system fail. If California requires 3/5, I should be ok then right? My durametrics isn't picking up any CEL codes, immediate or pending. What is the screen cap that Loren posted? Is that from a smog computer or something?

On a cold start, I don't hear any fans coming on.

Originally, I was getting a P0430 cel for cat deficiency. However, it has stayed off (in the meantime) after clearing it with my durametrics. When using my durametrics, I'm not getting any faults or pending faults...

Using my Durametrics, I'm getting a Fail for the Secondary Air System in the Ready Test. Why is this and what does it mean? I'm looking at the service manual and the requirements for the secondary air system is "Start engine, idle cold for approx 2 min, 10 sec's." I've done this multiple times already.

All the other monitors passed. Is this sufficient to pass smog?

While changing out my spark plug tubes today I noticed that there was what appears to be dirt in one of the wells (with the tube removed). When I pulled the tube, there was a considerable amount of dirt/soil on both the green and red o-rings. What concerns me is the dirt around the green o-ring. I peeked inside the well and sure enough, there is debris around that area. Is this cause for concern? I tried to snap a pic of the well and you can see the dirt hanging around the area that the green o-ring would sit at.

The shop obd2 reader was originally only picking up the P0430 cat code. I cleaned my maf, poured some techron cleaner in, and reset me ecu. 50 miles later and armed with a Durametric, the fault code returned along with P1128 and P1130- Oxygen sensing adaptation idle range bank 1 and 2.

Any ideas on what's going on? My oil cap is on tight, and there are no driveability issues. I hope I didn't screw up the maf, but I would think just spraying it with maf cleaner wouldn't break it...

I recently cleaned my MAF in hopes of chasing out a 0430 CEL. I took the MAF out, sprayed it with MAF cleaner, put it back in, and unplugged battery. I didn't drive the car for a few days after so I know the MAF was dry. When I started the car earlier, the idle was really rough. It would jump back and forth from 500 rpms to 1000 rpms. After the car warmed up the rough idle settled down slightly but was still present- it would jump back and forth from 500 to 800 rpms.

Any ideas what the issue is here? Is this just the ecu adjusting to a cleaner MAF? I had zero idle issues prior to the MAF cleaning.

Hi. Disconnected my battery and now radio needs a code.

CDR 220

Type: 4462

Serial: X5036281

Thanks in advance!

Bump from the dead. Any fixes on this common problem? I have the same issues with my 00 S where the buttons do not work, but I can manually lock the doors.

After replacing the drain plug for a tranny fluid flush, it started leaking slowly. I thought I had stripped the internal threads of the drain hole because the screw would keep on spinning. I had it towed to a local shop for re-threading. However, they just notified me that my transmission case was cracked in 4 different places (front, rear, and sides). They recommended either getting a new case, or taking a chance and using the jb weld approach to sealing the cracks. How common is this? If I have to end up replacing the unit, do I have to get a whole new transmission or can I get just the case? How much is the case? The vehicle seemed to be driving fine before all this so I'm assuming the internals of the transmission should still be ok?

2000 Boxster S 6 speed manual 73k miles