san rensho

A rotary polisher/sander with a wool bonnett that you don't mind throwing away and rubbing compound.  If you are really particular you can then finish with polishing compound.

What also helps is to clean the entire mechanism, especially the mechanism that pivots up to grab the headlight,  and then lubricate it all with WD40 or silicone.

To check if its the aos, with motor warm and idling take off the oil cap and put your hand over the opening and seal it gight. You should feel the slightest vacuum. If there is significant vacuum the problem is the aos and the sound you hear is air getting sucked past the rms. If thats the case dont even start the car. You could very easily suck the oil out of the crancase into the intake leading to hydrolock which will ruin your motor.

My diagnosis is that  you have the movie 2001: A Space Odyssey in your motor.

To check if the unplugged module was causing the vacuum leak, remove the plug and look at the MAF reading and fuel trims (FRA/RKAT)then plug the hole, If the Maf reading goes up and the RKAT/FRA readings go down then that was your vacuum leak.

 

2000 2.7L

 

 

I've been getting regular (about every 2 weeks or so) CEL for the SAI system P 0410 "signal implausible" as well as 1128 and 1130 which indicate the fuel trims are at full rich. The MAF is reading lowish, around 10-11 when it should be at 15. This leads me to believe that I am getting a vacuum leak somewhere in the SAI system.

Does that sound right and if there is a vavuum leak from the SAI, what are the usual suspects?

san rensho, remember this thread? http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/49666-p0410-secondary-air-injection-system-cylinders-1-%96-3-a.html

Check the air ports on the heads... You will have to drop the three-way catalytic converters to inspect the ports.

 

Ah yes, remember it well.  I was hoping that was not the problem.  But in your case, the Durametric trace shows the SAI system was not working, Correct?  At start the voltages should go to near zero until the pump shuts off and then they should track as shown in your trace.  In my case, the trace shows the SAI system is working, so i guess I'll take alook at the SAI components before I tear into air passages.

By the way, if the SAI system works on vacuum, how can it inject air into the exhaust, or am I not understanding how the system works.

RKAT is at full rich and since the MAF value is low, tells me its a vacuum leak.  I have a spare MAF, so I'll swap it just to rule out a bad MAF, but I think its ok.

No mods.  I recently replaced the valve that goes from the EVAP canister to the throttle body, so I guess I better check that again.  When it was bad, I diagnosed it by pinching off the connection at the throttle body and the MAF reading, which was low at  around 9-10 went back up to within spec, so I guess I'll start there since its an easy diagnosis.  Is this the purge valve you mentioned?  I hate messing with the evap system, its real pain.

When I remove the cap at the filler tube, the idle stumbles and changes, so I think I'm ok with the tube.

I ran the diagnostic and everything checked out.  Both pre cat O2 sensor voltages went to near 0 after I started the car, the post cat sensors straight lined at a higher voltage than the pre cat sensors and after a few seconds, also wnet down to near 0.  Then, once the pump shut off, the pre cat sensors started to track sine waves and the post cat sensors went up and tracked slightly wavering straight lines.

So I'm thinking its an intermittent problem with one of the components, but it still doesn't explain the low MAF readings, which is still around 10-12.

By the way, if a have to dig into the SAI system, can I get access to the somponents by removing the starter or do I have to take off the intake manifold?

The pump is working, so I'll try the diagnostics.  Thanks.

2000 2.7L

I've been getting regular (about every 2 weeks or so) CEL for the SAI system P 0410 "signal implausible" as well as 1128 and 1130 which indicate the fuel trims are at full rich. The MAF is reading lowish, around 10-11 when it should be at 15. This leads me to believe that I am getting a vacuum leak somewhere in the SAI system.

Does that sound right and if there is a vavuum leak from the SAI, what are the usual suspects?

you can also try removing the spark plugs, pressurizing the cooling system and listening in the spark plug holes with a piece of flecible tubing for the telltale hissing of escaping coolant.

+1 on the fans ask me how I know what he knows :(

Let me guess.  You went to Miami Beach during a high tide?  Thats what got mine.

All tie rods are adjustable but they don't affect handling other than adjust the toe.  I think what you mean are adjustable control arms.  Tarett makes them, I haven't used them but they are fully adjustable.

Dont do it. The high water will flood the ballast resistors on the radiator fans and cause them to fail. Ask me how i know.

Take a look at this

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/50264-success-finally-fixed-hard-start-while-hot-fueling-issues.html

The last gen of the IMSB, which I assume you have since the motor was replaced in 2007, has a failure rate of less than 1% according to the data provided by Porsche pursuant to tha class action suit filed against them. Just drive it like you stole it.

So what was the condition of the IMSB you took out? I assume it was a double row. Was it rough,loose?

Try this. On the bottom edge of the door are 4 rubber plugs. Pull them off and you will see two plastic pulley wheels. Squirt oil liberally onto the bearing at the center of the wheel. Actuate the window and re lube a couple of times.

Take off the serpentine belt and run the car briefly.  If the noise goes away, the noise is from something being driven by the belt.  Check all pulleys for noise and play, it should be pretty obvious.

If the noise persists with the belt off, then its something more serious.

The cam values will vary with temp. In my case, the bank 1 values will vary almost 1 deg depending on temp.

I would start with a new baseline, making sure the car is completely warmed up, especially the oil temp and then check again after a few hundred miles.

To my understanding, the deviation does not get better over time.

Take a look at this. If the MAF values are low, then its a very good chance its the valve. Pinch off the evap line at the throttle body and if the MAF values go up, I would definitely statrt with the valve..

http://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/50264-success-finally-fixed-hard-start-while-hot-fueling-issues.html

Most inside wear problems on the rear are due to too much toe, not too much camber. I scrubbed a set of rears in a few thousand miles because of too much toe.

Doesn't look really bad, you essentially have 2 pieces of ferrous metal, although they are fairly large; M96 motors shed metal throughout their lives. I woulf just do another oil change in about 1-2k miles and drop the sump at the same time to see if there is any significant amount of metal.

Check the cam deviation with an appropriate scanner. if you get variation at idle, thats a sign the IMSB is going.

If you then find a lot of metal, its an indication its the IMSB, but there are other failure modes.