Keith Hatfield

My 1999 Boxster (automatic) stopped on me yesterday and would not restart. It would crank and crank, but not catch. After letting it sit for about 30 minutes, it started and ran just fine. I had it towed home anyway.

This morning it started on the first try and ran well. Less than half a mile from my office parking lot the engine suddenly stopped and would not start again. I've parked it and will take it to a local Porsche mechanic later today. The nearest Porsche dealer is in Austin.

There are no warning signs (sputtering, etc.) or check engine lights.

Any idea of what is getting so hot that it causes the engine to cut off?

MNC-I

Might be the ignition problem you frequently read about. I've had to repair mine twice so I'm like the guy with a hammer that thinks everything looks like a nail. Mine wouild not start not start. Then I'd jiggle the key and it would start, but then the engine would die because natural vibration caused the ignition connection to disconnect. Finally, jiggling the key would work less and less. Don't even know if they have a coil, but in old cars coil failure would cause the problems you describe.

i looked into it and saw that some of the reviews were not that good. As a mac user, i ended up getting movi by yhasi and am very happy with it.

I checked out the Movi website. It seems nifty for the OBD2 functions. I see it states it does not do the other Porsche stuff like reset the airbags. Good to know of this alternative. Unfortunately, I need to reset my airbags.

Ok got the screws out and removed the old component. It was cracked. Go figure. Now I put in the new one, and I think I did everything right, but no start. I'm pretty sure I got the key extension male to line up with the switch female. Went through with gentle pressure on the switch and gently turning the key, but then try to start and nothing. Everything else works. About ready to fire bomb this thing!!!! By the way, there was a silver ring around the old switch, and nothing like it on the new one. Old is to the right, new one to the left.

Any suggestions? Or since I have it in service mode now, would I be better off just to replace the whole ignition with the updated part?

Is it possible that I got a bad switch as a replacement?

I haven't done the full ignition replacement. I wonder how much work that is because replacing this faulty piece is getting old. In your picture, on the wide end which sits on the table, the three protruding plastic prongs have different shapes. One is square and the other two are round. When you marry these with the other part of the ignition, if you get these squares and rounds matched correctly, you can't get it in wrong. If you have to force it much, they are in the wrong holes. When they are in the right holes it should snug up and all the metal connecting tabs go in the proper slots.

I used to wonder why auto repair manuals almost always begin with "disconnect the battery" steps. Most times as Loren pointed out, disconnecting and reconnecting the seat or steering wheel dosen't disable the airbags, just sets a fault code. I learned this the hard way doing door window regulators, I reconnected the battery to adjust things, only to have a warning light because I had power applied with no door airbag installed.. If you plan on staying in the Porsche family, it's worth it to buy a durametric. There is a used "enthusiest" version on eBay right now. Even buying a new one, if you need it twice, it's paid for itself. If you are a PCA member ask the local folks to see if anyone has one that will help you.

Thanks. PCA isn't very active here but I'll pursue it. It occurs to me that if I just ask another owner with a Duramateric, he's going to have a limit of 3 Vins on his machine so it wouldn't be right to consume one just for this one reset. I'd need someone with the professional unlimited Vin version. That basically means someone with a shop. Called one German car specialist who wants $65 (1/2 hr) to reset it. I suppose that is fair but I'll keep looking too. I've had the car 10 years and not needed the Durametric so I'm loath to go buy one just in case I may need it someday. When I need it again the software may be a higher version. On the other hand I'd save $65 in the purchase.

Since I was repairing the poorly designed ignition when I had the seat out, someone said "why don't you try it before putting the seat back in?" So I reconnected the battery and started it. I should have thought about what could go wrong. Stupid.

I've seen the posting about it but no feedback. I'd love to hear from Loren or someone about how this works.

My link

The GL1 software is free but you need to buy the cable. Does the software just read OBDII codes or will it do airbags, etc.?

I should have an iPad2 soon. Is this cable unique to iPad? It doesn't look like USB2.

I didn't have to remove the steering wheel. I replaced the switch relay that was causing the vehicle not to start.

Does it mean that the airbag will not function in the event of an accident?

HOw did that work out for you? I fixed my ignition too and took the driver's seat out to make room. Apparently, by disconnecting the wire harness and reconnecting it, I've disabled the airbag system according to the shop manual. It says I need a PST2 to reset it. Meanwhile, it doesn't work.

Would love to know how you fixed your airbag problem.

Just wondering if anyone has any magic tips that make getting to the screws on the electrical part of the ingition easier to get to. I have the duct removed from the bottom, but I can's seem to get a good angle to get at the screws. Its really tight under there for me. Do I need to try to get the duct out that runs up the drivers side? Also, what size flat blade is it exactly, and whats the best way to get the sealing paint out? I hate to take it in, but I've been messing with it for 2 days now....

Thanks in advance for any advice. BTW 1998 Boxster

Jim

Hi Jim, I've done this twice now. Once in 2006 and about 2 weeks ago. I happen to have a very short, narrow tipped screw driver for crafts and stuff. Actually my wife's. I've read elsewhere that some people have cut theirs to make it shorter and ground or filed it to make theirs narrower. If it is not short enough you can't get the right angle on it. Think watch or jewelry repair tools but only the shortest ones. I didn't have to remove the 2nd duct. If you can get those screws out you are home free. Dealer the other day quoted me about $475 to fix it. BTW, I removed the driver's seat. Made it easier but now my air bag light is on continuously. Manual says I need a PST2 machine to reset the airbag system. How come the manual didn't mention this under the part about taking the chair out !!!