gcp

JFP, we did that and from the data we determined it's the cam sensor. It sounds quit the job, how many hours work am I looking at to remove/replace this sensor?

Thank you for your response!

Hi all and merry Xmas!

Last week a friend's code reader indicated that my Y2K 996 may have a faulty inlet bank 2 camshaft position sensor (code P1325). Can someone please tell me where I can located this sensor so as I can remove, test, and if need be replace it? Will I need to go under the car to visually locate and inspect?

All DIY assistance will be greatly appreciated!

Another successful repair thanks to this forum! Behind the rear wheels, the driver's side drain was completely clogged while the passenger's side drain was 1/2 way there. In my view this is "must do" maintenance, every year or two, to assure no water damage is ever inflicted upon the electronics seating on the passenger's floorboard.

I thank you for all your help!!

Hilux, I meant I understood the directions but I've not executed yet....probably sometime this week.

 I just picked up my 996 from the detail guy and I must say he did a marvelous job! My car looks practically new....not bad for a 15 year old hey? Next on the list is to resolve the leak and then off I go on the open road :drive:

Got it, thanks a bunch!

Ultimately, the headlights did not have to be removed, the yellowing was so slight that the detail guy decided to work on the while they remained mounted.

Hilix, first off thank you for the tip!

But would you happen to have pics that show your liner in reference? Meaning, are you talking about removing the rear wheels and the plastic wheel well cover to gain access to these vents?

I appreciate the input guys but are there directions on how to remove the headlights? I see non on the DIY and I'd rather do this on my workbench.

My headlights are beginning to yellow so I'd like to remove them and polish them. Are they easy to remove and if so how should I go about it? I was not able to find a posted DIY.

Yesterday we were able to rework the sticky ignition switch by removing the whole assembly, cleaning, re-greasing, and re-installing. I no longer see the need for replacing it with a new unit, for the time. We also worked the horn problem by utilizing the o-ring methodology and it worked like a charm. Another successful DIY story thanks to the wealth of knowledge found in this forum!!

All that remains now is to locate & eliminate the convertible top's leak, which has proven more challenging than the rest of the repairs.

Loren, thanks again for all your help!

Great video, thank you very much!

Good evening all,

On my Y2K 996 I'd like to tackle the airbag rubber grommet fix (black silicon DIY) but before I make a mistake, do I only have to remove the 2 torx screws located at the back of the steering wheel before the bag assembly can be pulled off? I believe that's it but verifying.

Also, it appears that my key is difficult to turn to the on position at times (also makes the steering wheel feel tight), especially if the car remains parked for a while so, is there a DIY for this problem? I am sure mine is not the only car with this problem.

We replaced the MAF sensor, and rotors and pads today while tomorrow I am scheduled to replace all 4 tires but I'd also like to complete the horn/airbag fix as well, while feeling motivated.....I've not been driving my car much the past few years, only 62K miles on it, but it's high time it sees some spirited driving :drive:

Thank you!

All, in my case the drains appear to be unclogged but I discovered a portion of the rubber seal of the top's driver side that was not sealing properly against the frame, allowing water to flow within. So, I first glued the rubber onto the frame of the top and then used silicon to further enhance its functionality so let's see how that plays out....and the rear window seals appear to be sealing properly so I will not replace at this time.​

I also have an issue with the driver's side main window...every time I roll it down the outside rubber seal bends inward resisting the closure of the glass. Is this an adjustment issue I can tackle myself?

dj, thank you for the suggestions. As an update, this morning I removed the rear speaker but did not see presence of water inside that compartment. I then used compressed air on both drivers side drain slits to assure that they are unclogged and they appeared to be. As insurance I poured water in the drain area and the water did come out the bottom of the wheel well so the drain system is working. But I am intrigued but the window suggestions in that I had mine replaced by a local shop a few years back and maybe that's where it's leaking? Exactly which seal are you referring to? Do you have a picture to help guide me?

I am still drying the carpet and foam under it, good news is that most of the water has been removed.

This pic helps a bit, I'll go looking in the morning....thanks again Julie!

Julie, I appreciate the quick response but is there a picture or schematic that would show me where the drainage channels, valve & reservoir are that may be clogged?

creekman, I think the water accumulation occurs while I'm driving because I was driving the car today in the rain.

Hi all,

I have an issue with my 2000 996 that must be resolved. Every time it rains, under the driver's side rear seat and rear floorboard I get quite an accumulation of water which soaks the carpet and foam under it. The top does not appear to leak, nor do the windows so what gives? Is there a plug maybe under the car or the rear wheel weal that may be missing? This has been going on a while now so please help me resolve it!

I can provide pics if that'll help.

These are the exact part numbers listed on the parts themselves but when I gave them to Suncoast they couldn't cross reference but I'll try again.

And yes, after I put the top down once I saw a bit of a mark on the material so I figured I shouldn't drop the top again till these plastic parts have been replaced.

Thank you very much guys!

gcp

Good afternoon,

I recently executed the DIY of the soft top pump by additing a bit more oil and it all went well. But in the process the part depicted below broke so I must replace it. Can someone please tell me if these two parts come together as one and if available I;d appreciate someone providing me with the part number so I can order.

Thank you!

white99, thank you for the suggestions. After I posted on Saturday I went to my friendly stereo store and purchased a JVC KD-A725BT for $140 (same unit I have on my Audi, why re-learn the functions if I don't have to) and the needed harness and installed it. Sounds better than stock but the speakers appear to be the weak link now as in dynamic set-up I hear distortion from the base. As a next step I'll probably get rid of the stock amp and speakers so if you can provide me with the details on how to go about it I'd appreciate it. I hope I don't have to re-wire and simply replace amps and speakers with better quality aftermarket stuff. Not sure I want a sub for the time.....BTW, I can't see your picture's details, can you provide a better one? I love the GPS install idea and would love to repeat it!

Thank you sir!

I have a Y2K with close to 59K miles on it. There is something going on with the horn as it's become very sensitive to the point that it goes off when I brake hard. Is there an easy way to fix this or should I take it to the mechanic? People are beginning to think I'm a nuisance, which I am but for different reasons then driving :-)

I'd also like to change out the Porsche stereo/single CD player unit CDR 220 to an aftermarket head unit for more power and musical clarity when the top is down. Are there removal/installation directions on our forum for accomplishing an install? What size and make are the stock speakers and are there wiring issues to be mindful of or will an aftermarket unit be a direct replacement?

Thank you!

Guys, I added hydraulic fluid to the top's pump and it worked like a charm. Thank you very much for your pointers!!