gcp

Loren, I assume I will be looking for the gray/pink wire to snip for MY2K?

Thanks,

Thank you izzy!!

Guys, is the below applicable to the MY 2K 996 cabrio? I'd like to perform this simple mod....and where's the particular relay located in the 996? I tested the hand brake and one click does the job in allowing the top to be operated but does it at all activate the emergency brake? Sure doesn't feel like it!

http://www.iq.dynip.com/~gary/hacks/cabrio/cabrio.html

Thanks,

PS BTW I just won a B&M STS on ebay so I'll be busy installing it when it gets here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...IBSAA%3AUS%3A11

Yes it is but beware of shipping/hazmat charges <_<

It smells like coolant to me...and no mine's no longer leaking after the expansion tank replacement.

Thank you for your suggestions. Mine's got 40K miles (MY2K) and runs good but I figured I'd replace them since I am doing an oil and air filter change. What's the recommended miles change, 40K? I guess I could check a couple of the easily accessed ones to make sure they do need changing before I go through the pains.

Guys quick question, is it best to use the Porsche recommended spark plugs (name escapes me at the moment) or will any good quality plug do?

Thanks,

Well, after allowing the oil to settle over night it's back to its original level....I guess I have no oil burning what so ever in my 996 after all and feel better about it, normal or not :clapping:

A big thank you to Loren for saving me some bucks!

Guys, what's the normal oil consumption on a MY2K 996? Mine seems to have gone down about one (digital) line in a little over 2K miles. Is this normal?

Thanks,

Glad to see this write-up since I too am looking for a B&M STS on the net, any suggestions where to buy from?

I'd also like to replace the stock stick of my MY 2K, any suggestions on what I should purchase? I like the round more traditional sticks.

Thanks,

Guys, will this brace work well on an MY 2K 996? If installed will it make a perceptible difference around hard bends?

BTW I wish a very happy new year to all our members with health, peace and prosperity.

I sent you a PM...

djantlive, can you please elaborate? Is this a possible DIY?

Thanks,

Have any of you heard of Coastal Full Synthetic oil? At $3.5 each I picked up six quarts of 10W30 to try in my 1990 740 Volvo. Now that's one workhorse of a car!! My winter vehicle while my garage queen stays nice and dry/warm in the garage :D

Can't find much data on the net on this oil but I'll keep looking.

Thanks,

Hello,

The car is 1998 carrera 996.

The problem is that the car mixes oil with coolant.

At first i replaced the oil-cooler, that didn't solved the problem.

Now the engine is parted out from the car, the head sent for check and i just can't find out where it leaks from !

Please help,

Sahar.

Head gasket?

Richard, I had the exact thoughts as you before I replace the stock airbox with an EVO induction system. What held me back from taping the factory made perforations was H2O accumulation. The water has to drain from the airbox some how. The real question is are all those holes needed for draining alone? I am surprised that you noticed a hesitation when taping the factory holes :oops:

Thanks for sharing inputs.....

Hi - to be honest, I don't believe that is the primary function of these holes. The water must exit at the 'lowest' point which is hole in the bottom of the air box - made obvious by the water marks leading to it. This hole also deposits any water in the gap behind the engine by the belts and onto the floor - no I believe those holes are 100% for air intake or balance only.

Taking another look at the holes - getting cool air to them is going to be more of a problem than I originally thought due to the a/c lines - there isn't much room in there...

I'm taking the tape off for the moment, but may cut a second hole into the sub frame of the Aero kit just to feed it cold air by convection ....

Thanks for your thoughts...

Richard.

Here's my set up with the EVO induction system. I don't much like the design because it seems to me it suck in more hot air than cold....but it works well so I can't argue with success.

You will need to remove the latch to get to the microswitch.

A contributing member wrote that up here.

Thanks Loren but yak! I didn't want to have to remove the latch...Don't know that the dinky light's worth the trouble....I'll ponder on it a while

Quick question guys, which fuse controls the luggage compartment light? Neither the owners manual nor does the fuse paperwork indicate a specific fuse. In mine the bulb is good but there's no light emanating. It's either a fuse or a sensor I'd say.

Thanks,

Loren, where is the microswitch? I took the front apart (where the latch is) but it's no where to be found. Hmmm!

Try changing the bulb first and clean the light socket with contact cleaner. If no luck, measure the voltage at the socket line leading to the socket.

I removed the luggage compartment light fixture and plugged it into the engine compartment harness, worked like a charm. Looks like it's the microswitch as Loren suggested.

Quick question guys, which fuse controls the luggage compartment light? Neither the owners manual nor does the fuse paperwork indicate a specific fuse. In mine the bulb is good but there's no light emanating. It's either a fuse or a sensor I'd say.

Thanks,

Richard, I had the exact thoughts as you before I replace the stock airbox with an EVO induction system. What held me back from taping the factory made perforations was H2O accumulation. The water has to drain from the airbox some how. The real question is are all those holes needed for draining alone? I am surprised that you noticed a hesitation when taping the factory holes :oops:

Thanks for sharing inputs.....

Can someone help me I have a problem......

I purchased my 996 c2 about a month ago... the first day I had the car I blew the motor. 3 weeks later I found a used motor and had it put in. When I recieved my car the heat was not working, and the temp light was flashing. I was told there is air bubbles in the lines. They tried many ways to get the bubbles out but it didnt work so they opened up the lines at the front and put coolant in there and the heat works now, but I still have a flashing light, and when I'm on idle, my car will over heat and spill all my coolant out... I have been putting new coolant in every day...

Could my thermostat be bad? Or do I still just have air bubbles in my lines?

saj, sorry to hear of your travails!! Id' suggest that you go back to the guy that installed the new motor and demand that he does right by you by making your car reliable, period!! You also might want to consider going back to the guy you bought the car from. Did you cause the engine blow, from misuse, or was it a defective car that you bought? Don't try to solve this yourself for you are then assuming all responsibility.

TSB = technical service bulletin

Flocking panel is a plastic panel at the front most part of the soft top. You notice the front part of the soft top is solid, w a panel under the canvass. That's the flocking panel. It can warp due to heat when parked outside and cause lots of noise with the headers.

Porsche also updated the mounting hardware in 2002 ( I think?). When my car was still under the factory warranty I complained about it and they updated the hardware - it made a big difference.

Porsche redesigned the Centering Pins for the Cab to a one piece model (left and right side) see TSB 6110 in April of 03 because the older centering pins were manufactured as two pieces (one piece was the pin and the other was a 'cap') The cap cracked or would fall off the pin over time making the top loose. The new part is one piece and its a bit thicker than the old design.

I bought the new pins from Sunset Porsche for 27.00 ea and changed it over in a matter of two minutes on my MY00 C4 Cab. So, that settled one source of the rattles in my top. I agree that there are several areas where the noises which are described as creaks, squeaks, clicks and rattles.. But I also understand that the car is what it is ...Great! and well... everthing can be fixed over time.

So its great to have all of your experiences to learn from.

Bob

Great tip, thanks Bob! Even though mine seems to be still in tact I may just buy the updated center pins and replace them myself to stop the occurance of future problems.

Now on to wind noise emanating from the windows, any suggestions on how to eliminate it? Has anyone tried inserting weather strips into the soft top's rubber pieces to make it bulge more and thus seal tighter against the glass surface?

George:

The header squeak/rattle can be solved on both hardtop and softtop cars by keeping the header gasket lubricated. This is the number one source of most noise. Since your car is recently acquired, chances are it has not been lubed up in a while.

The other thing you can do is to raise the top halfway and spray some lubricant on the various pivots and hinges that are in the top mechanism.

Sorry to hear about your tooth. That sort of stuff is no fun.

Well, I've traced down my soft top's rattle/creak to the passenger side. There is a hard rubber hump there (probably some sort of stopper) that rubs on the metal/plastic frame due to driving vibrations or maybe even misalignment. A bit of dry film lube on this rubber piece and the noise is gone....for ever I hope.

Thanks for the great suggestions!

Question is, will I like the hard top enough to cross country for it?

In the Atlanta climate, there are many winter days on which the top down ride is wonderful. I have not had my hardtop on since I brought the car home from the dealer. I doubt that I ever will .... but just can't bring myself to get rid of it yet.

Kim

2000 Cab

Kim, I understand how you feel. I have a feeling that mine will also become a wall hanger....but at least it will be easily accessible and in my garage...with all the other stuff I don't use ;)