dphil66

Here is a picture of the amp location on my '99 C4. The wires you see are the wiring harness that plugs into the front of the amplifier.

The numbers after the N designation (N0, N3, etc.) indicate which generation their tire is vs the Porsche test program. For example, if Pirelli gets an N designation on a new tire, it's N0. If they make some revisions to that tire and has Porsche validate the revised tire, then the revised tire gets an N1 designation. And so on...

But all this means is that Porsche has put these tires through their tests, and has approved them. Only insiders at Porsche might be able to tell you whether or not they tested any other tires that did NOT meet their test requirements, but my guess is that they test a couple of tires from their primary tire partners at the time, so they end up having at least one or two tires tested on a particular model that they'll designate as the OEM tires, and move on.

What I'm saying is that Porsche may have tested the Michelin Pilot Sport Rib and the Pirelli P-Zero Nero on the 1995 C2, and then purchased those tires from those manufacturers and put them on those cars when new. It doesn't mean that they ALSO tested Toyos, Yokohamas, Bridgestones, Goodyears, etc. and those tires did NOT pass the tests. It probably means they were just not tested. Most likely due to time and resources, they just need to confirm that a couple of sets will work on their car in their test, and leave it at that. It's just not practical to test every tire from every manufacturer on every model, when all they need to do is establish that there is at least one or two makes/models in the marketplace that work on their car.

There are most likely also exclusive agreements involved, like making a deal with Michelin or Pirelli to be the OEM supplier, and if you buy tires at your dealership, they can only sell Michelins or Pirellis, and recommend those tires only because of an exclusivity agreement. Kind of like when a place has an exclusive arrangement with one or two catering companies - if you want to use their facility, you have to use either caterer A or caterer B. That's not to say that caterer C would do just as good a job if not better, but they have arrangements with A or B, and that's what you're stuck with it you want to use their place.

So if they tires you like are available in the sizes you need and are the compound and tread type you want, then go for it.

If you're racing, then you may want to talk to some seasoned racers to find out what they use. You may find that the top winning guys prefer a particular type or model for some specific reasons. Or maybe they prefer tire A for dry tracks with no hairpins, tire B for oval tracks, and tire C for tracks with a lot of up-down grades or whatever.

Freezing the inserts, what a clever idea! I would highly recommend it if your inserts are tight fitting.

Again, levering the die-cast part open just a touch with a screwdriver can help as well.

Also, due to the effect of low temperatures on metal parts, be sure you do this job when the car (and the spinlock receivers on the car) are room temp. If your inserts have been sitting on thekitchen counter all night, and you go out into your freezing-cold garage to install them...they might fit very tightly, or not at all.

Again, great call on the freezing!

As said before, disconnect the battery and try it again.

Leave it disconnected for at least 50 seconds to reset the ECU.

If you change to a K&N air filter, or swap out your factory air box for one of those cold air intake kits with the cone-type air filter, be sure to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before you start the car again. Doing this can help prevent your CEL (Check Engine Light) from coming on.

Why? Because disconnecting the battery "resets" the engine computer. When the battery is reconnected, the engine computer will start learning from scratch, with the new, higher-flow air intake. If you do not purge the computer's memory, it will detect a sudden change in the intake air, and this can trigger the CEL.

You can disconnect the battery for up to 20 seconds and not have to re-input your radio codes. But for this type of change, be sure to leave the battery disconnected for at least 50 seconds. This will purge the machine.

Be careful how much oil you put on the filter. You may want to oil the filter, and then leave it standing on end for 2-3 days. Wipe up any excess that collects under the filter, and blot the part of the filter closer to the ground to be sure you won't be dripping any filter oil into your intake. (If you stand the filter on end for a couple of days and you get some drips, you're using too much oil...)

I've had a factory K&N installed in my '99 C4 for 15k miles so far. There may be a couple of HP there, but for me, I like the reduced cost and environmentally friendliness of a re-useable filter.

Dan

I'd also recommend doing a lot of the 60k service yourself, but I'm DIY type. I simply enjoy doing it, and changing the oil and spark plugs yourself can save some real money.

Mine is coming up, and I plan on having the dealer do some of the 60k servcie for me. I'll have them flush the brake fluid, replace the serpentine belt, read out the fault codes, and maybe some other checks/adjustments.

But I don't need the dealer to replace my pollen filter, or change my oil or plugs. That stuff is very easy, especially with a good set of ramps and an angled driveway to get the car horizontal for the oil change.

BTW, I just purchased FOUR of the charcoal-type pollen filters from www.drivewire.com for only $13 each. The paper standard pollen filters are like $11 and change, and made by Mahle. The dealer charges $75 for the charcoal one, and almost $40 for the standard one.

DP

Well Hell's bells...there they are, all of the dealer parts catalogs, right at your fingertips, free to download from the Porsche official website. Check it out:

https://techinfo.porsche.com/techinfo/VFMod...pe=MainFrameSet

Select "Workshop Information" at the bottom left, then click on "Genuine Parts - Catalogue"....

Totally awesome. No more standing over the dealer parts guy's shoulder to look through the catalog for a part number.

I own a '99 Carrera 4, and it's a great car. As said previously, the only maintenance difference is the need to change the front differential oil, but it's once every 60k miles. There are some different part numbers - transmission, axles, etc., but for basic maintenance, 'tis the same.

There were some differences in standard equipment. At least on a '99, here is what is standard equipment on a C4 that you'd have to pay extra for on a C2:

- PSM (Porsche Stability Management), which in '99 was a little different than TC (Traction Control); but this was standard on all C4 models, and TC cost extra on C2 models

- Sunroof

- Brake calipers painted silver

- 18" Technology (turbo-twist) wheels

- Carrera 4 logo on rear deck is in silver

- major loss of trunk space due to front AWD hardware; comes w/collapsible spare + air compressor instead of compact spare; different mouting of M490 amp and CD changer

The weight penalty vs. a C2 is minimal - less than 100 lbs - and the performance difference is barely measurable, much less noticeable. As for fuel economy, I get about 21 mpg around town with my gentle feet. But on the highway, I get a stunning 33 mpg at a steady 72 mph. Cranking the speed up to a steady 85 mph drops that down to about 27.5 - 28.5 mpg range.

One of the best things about the C4 is that it's a little more rare, and it has slightly better resale value. And if you're one of those crazy track nuts, it supposedly goes faster around the Nurburgring by like 2 seconds or whatever.

I am not sure about any difference in the OEM spring/shock rates. I know that the brand-new 997 Targa 4 has a slightly softer suspension than other models, and even different than non-Targa C4 models. I don't know if the earlier (and regular non-Targa like mine) C4 models have any suspension differences. Anybody know the answer?

One more thing - I drive mine year-round. You could drive a C2 year-round as well (like my wife's Boxster), but the AWD gives you an edge. But the best thing about it is that if I switch off PSM, the car does donuts like no car I've ever driven. It's a blast!!!

Happy holidays,

Dan

You could try one of those extra-short open-end wrenches, or even cut down an old one you might have.

Otherwise, your best be might be a clawfoot wrench, which is made for just such a problem. It's basically an open end wrench head, with about 1 inch or less of the handle still attached, in which there is a square hole for your ratchet.

Here's a link to some clawfoot, or crow's foot, wrenches:

http://www.mactools.com/ProductsList.aspx?FamilyID=1314

Maybe those would work for the tight space?

Check this out, I think it will help you:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10440

After completing this job myself in less than 20 minutes, I wrote up a how-to guide on installing spinlocks to prep your Boxster for a hardtop. It's in the 986 DIY section, under Accessories. Here's the post:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=10440

I hope this is helpful to those of you searching in vain for hardtop information.

Dan

Here's another one, although I couldn't find a web link to the company's website. The manufacturer is Zientec Suisse Automotive, or Z-tec. They supposedly make a Boxster hardtop for almost 4000 Euros. (So why not just buy the one designed and engineered by the folks who brought you the Boxster in the first place?)

http://digiads.com.au/car-news/latest-Z%20...r_20060706.html

I don't know if this has been posted here already, but check it out:

http://www.boxster-hardtop.co.uk/index.asp

Thanks for this post, it was very helpful!

My '99 C4 was a little different... I did not have any Torx screws. The three bolts holding the whole assembly down were 5 mm, and the bowden cable bolts were 3 mm. Both were allen-head cap screws.

By the way, the part number for the front hood lever is:

996.551.511.07

I bought it on eBay, but I'm sure you can have your dealer order it. It's about $100. Here's a picture:

It looks awesome once again!! Thanks!

When I had my local dealer align my C4, they gave me a printout from their equipment indicating what all the specs were, and where my car was before and after the alignment, with respect to the specs and tolerance ranges. I'll bet your local dealer would be able to provide such information for you. It could also be found in a Cayman service manual, which I do not own...

As a practicing Engineer, I can say that duplicating what the factory did on your older tub will be difficult at best. I would guess that Porsche could compile all the changes to components, assemblies, material specs, and processes from your MY to 2004, but this could be a week-long project for at least one Porsche engineer working full-time on it. I'm assuming you'd want specifics like whether they went from cold-rolled to HSLA on a particular component, what their material specs are, what their welding processes are, what adhesives at what temperatures and cure times they use...it could be done, but to truly duplicate an '04, you'd need access to all that kind of information. Knowing them, it would probably be much more than adding a couple of gussets made of hot-rolled steel here or there.

Thanks, great post! My exhaust tips have been returned to their former glory.

My girlfriend drives a 1985 (early) 944 with a chrome exhaust tip, and...her chrome tips has held up a LOT better than on my '99 C4. We both drive in the same environment (year-round in Michigan), and about the same miles per year. The chrome on her older car is WAY better than on the newer car, no doubt a result of cost reductions and more environmentally friendly processes...but it sure would be nice to have some higher quality chrome plating, it's disappointing to say the least.

Is it possible to obtain just the lever, and not the entire assembly? My painted plastic part is scratched/damaged, and I'd like to replace it, but my dealer only sells the entire assembly (large dark plastic housing, with both levers already attached). If the car has the memory seat option, the whole assembly sells for almost $500 and you can't get the levers separately. Any ideas? Thanks!

I have the same "issue" with my '99 C4, and here's why I think it is "normal":

The rear camber (the amount that the rear wheels tip inward at the top) is specified by the factory as negative. The acceptable range is between -55 minutes and -1 degree 25 minutes. (Thus the total acceptable range spans 30 minutes, or 0.5 degrees.)

So, the rear wheels, if "aligned properly", are tipped inboard at the tops of the wheels. They do this, in my estimation, to achieve a particular handling balance, a particular feel, a particular level of performance during hard cornering and accident-avoidance maneuvers. It essentially "pre-loads" the rear tires so that even before you start turning, the tires are already digging in for "ultimate grip".

This setup also results in "ultimate tire wear", and this is why my dealership told me that, aside from driving their cars pretty hard, most 996 owners go through a set of tires every 10,000 to 12,000 miles. On my 18" rims, those rear tires, new, are about $600 a pair!!

Your car, if "aligned properly", is literally grinding up the rear tires with every revolution. You can feel the heat on the insides of the rear tires, but it is not all from engine heat - they truly are being ground down to nothing with every turn of the wheels. If your tires wear unevenly - the inside edges go first - then your alignment is probably "correct".

I have what I believe to be a faulty CD-ROM drive for my PCM1 (8-bit) system, and back in November 2005 my dealer in Michigan quoted $1400, and they also offer a remanufactured unit for $1100.

As for the part numbers, the first 9 digits are the same worldwide I think, but the different versions are differentiated by the suffix numbers, so if the part number ends in .01, I think that's the US version, 1st generation 8-bit unit. I'm pretty sure the .03 is the first 16-bit unit.

I think the .12 Exx that Loren referred to may be the Euro version, and I'm not sure if it will work for the US. Does anybody know if US and Euro systems are compatible, i.e. do the hardware pieces work together, and will a Euro version link up to the satellites flying over the US?

I bought these wheels for my '99 C4. They are aftermarket replicas of the 2003-2004 Carrera wheels, made in Italy to exact factory specs:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18x8-18x10-...1QQcmdZViewItem

They shipped them double-boxed with proper protection, I received them in mint brand-new condition. They look incredible, and are truly exact replicas of the factory wheels, including the correct offsets.

My owner's manual specifies front ET50 offsets and rear ET65 offsets. These wheels have these exact same offseets. They fit on my car perfectly, and they look incredible. Just get yourself some decent snow tires and some center caps, and you're all set.

If you want to see a picture of them on my car, go to the 996 DIY articles section and look at the article I wrote on replacing the reversing lights/back-up lights switch on the transmission. I have a pic of my car up on ramps with the winter wheels. They are cheap, and really look awesome. Perfectly balanced, high quality.

The only thing I really noticed was that they seemed kinda heavy compared to my summer wheels. My summer wheels are the factory 18" Sport Design wheels, the 10-spoke with bolts around the perimeter. Those feel much lighter by comparison, but they were $3500 and they're made of titanium. So, the heavier wheels for winter use, for only $925 including shipping...not such a bad deal.

Here's what I might do if I had to do it again: get the 17x7 and 17x9 wheels/tires instead. These can be found for less money (both wheels and especially tires are much cheaper), and they will do better in the snow because they are narrower. Not by much, and I haven't tried them so I can't say how much difference there is, but being more narrow, they will dig down into the snow better. My 18s keep this lightweight car up on top of the snow as if it were on snowshoes. I slide around quite a bit, and my car is a C4 with PSM.

Best of luck!

dan

I've had some kind of strange noises through the factory stereo every time my Nextel rings. Not while in conversation, but only when it rings. Strange thump-thump-thump-thump-thump noise with each ring of the phone. Very odd!

I suppose there may be pros and cons to idling the car vs. not idling the car, but I think the most important point to take away is that one should be more gentle until one's car is at full operating temperature. Avoid high revs, fast shifts, 'spirited driving' until the car is warmed up, in order to avoid premature wear on the car's many drivetrain components. Optimally, "operating temperature" would mean the engine, transmission, differentials, wheel bearings, etc. etc. are all at operating temperature. Even though an engine may have been idling for 20 minutes, the transmission and everything else will still be cold.

We've just had 8 inches of snow in the last 12 hours, and I'm telling you...the 911 may be the best car ever for doing donuts! What a gas!