ABQautoxer

That is negative camber you are seeing. That is normal.

Tolum

I have noticed my AC was weaker and was holding 32psi in the line like yours so I originally figured no problem there since its within the range. Yesterday I finally added more R134A and the line pressure is now 37-38psi at idle at about 70F outside and it blows MUCH colder than ever. This might be worth a shot after I originally thought the pressure was high enough to indicate neither of us was low. GL.

I haven't tried it on the Boxster but if you don't mind the price the Pro-Clip stuff is great, at least in a few cars I've owned. I just use a Skydock even after canceling my XM.

Good question. Your pressure sounds normal (at least comparing to my own). If I had to guess, I would say something with the compressor itself. The high pressure pipe should be hot compared to the low pressure (fill) pipe.

Since he has 32psi on the low side, he should be ok there (has r134a). So what is more likely a problem is the pressure switch or clutch on the compressor. Do you hear the AC cycle on or off? Also what RPM was the 32psi mesured at?

There aren't a left and right I'm aware of from the wheels, just the tires perhaps depending on model (directional tires).

Loren are you talking about the real Durametric setup or this generic cable linked in the first post these guys are talking about? I have a Durametric pro kit as well, the generic ad above claims to do years that you need the round connector but its not shown in their pics.

FWIW unless there is another cable not shown, this will only talk to a 1996 993 or newer.

OBD II was not required by automakers until 1996. Porsche still had some diagnostic but not nearly as sophisticated as OBD II.

I know this. I was basically saying I don't see the round cable to do the other models it claims in the ad.

FWIW unless there is another cable not shown, this will only talk to a 1996 993 or newer.

...Checked emissions and these are the two items out of eight that show " inc" (inconclusive?) cat monitor & evap system.

And that's what you need to work to set by driving in the cycles that set those two. Once they are set, you can pass a test. Otherwise they will fail and set a CEL.

Never had the axle out of the 986, but if its like other cars, that stub axle has a circlip near the end of it. You have to push the stub axle back into the diff carefully not to upset the seals, and then force it into place. The trick on other cars is to use the full axle and thanks to the play in the CV joints, you can safely hammer it in like a slide hammer until it pops into place. Again, since I've never done a Boxster, hopefully someone can chime in to verify its the same.

Ah, the durametric has less. I'm used to seeing this:

If anything isn't set, it would not be a blackened circle. I think the Durametric would give you a far more verbose description of what is not ready on a boxster.

Also, here's the typical driving expected to set all test done by the OBD2 to be "ready."

Get someone with a higher end OBD-2 scanner or Durametric to read what is not ready (there are roughly 9 items to be ready and most need 7 to be ready to pass a plug-in test). That will be far cheaper/easier than throwing unknown parts at it.

Have you been able to drive the car since this happened?

Where does it say that in the owners manual? I can't find it. Thanks

I can't seem to find it though I swear I thought I read it there. I know had read about it here as well:

http://www.986faq.com/10-0/problems.asp#013

What RFM said. Otherwise that can happen on Boxer design engines and is even explained in the owners manual.

Your pressures could be low by as much as 10psi when hot. You probably want to start with something closer to 36 all around cold. On street tires for autox, I'm running 38f/41r hot but the sidewalls are a bit softer than Pilot Cups. At the least try starting the rears at 35psi cold and see how much of a change that makes. My guess is that low you are over heating the tires and they aren't working properly due to low pressure so a smaller contact patch.

I have the blacks on some turbo twists. I would prefer color if I had a choice but the blacks do look good as well.

My 02S is the same. From a different thread on this forum:

"This started in 2000. A raised lip was added to the left intake vent. It was to keep sheet rain water from being sucked into the engine, as the raised lip shed the flow."

This help?

CEL = Check Engine Light. Also called an MIL = Malfunction Indicator Light

Not having a properly sealing gas cap will trigger that.

Could it be tram-lining? Where the type of tire you have follows little grooves/ruts in the road making it feel like it has a mind of its own? Mine did this on the Michelin Pilot Sports even after I aligned it myself but doesn't on the current tires with no change in the alignment.

If its the IR sensors, couldn't you lock the fob twice which would disable the IR sensor function and see if the alarm operated normally?

If they fit the 05, they should fit your 2000 just fine.