CarreraLicious

Hi, just wondering if anyone knows if there's a way to replace the headlight locking bar on their headlight mounting plate. I have stripped mine over time, and now have trouble unlocking/locking my headlights, so I am looking to replace the locking bar. Any ideas, or am I the first one to attempt this? :) Thanks in advance for any tips.

It's item 10 in the diagram on the link below:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/PartsL...mp;Line_Item=10

If it's only condensation and not water, don't go to the trouble of taking out the headlight.....

Go home... Park up where you can see the car, leave the headlights on and the engine running, drape a newspaper over the offending headlight, this allow the heat generated by the bulb to expel the condensation (most headlight are not completely watertight), and if it was a once off problem then you may not need to replace or even remove the headlight, if it keeps happening the worst that has happened is you didn't save yourself a whole pile of dollars... Otherwise it can cure the problem completely, certainly has done for mine!!!

Jaybee

Thanks for the replies, guys.

The replector is supposed to be sealed. It is 2 pieces glued together. Over the years I have seen cars with condensation and even water in them.

Thanks Tool Pants. I guess I need to order a new corner piece then.

After driving in rain today, I noticed quite a bit of condensation in my pass. side corner reflector piece of the headlight. Is this normal? Isn't it supposed to be sealed? Thanks in advance for any insights.

I've had problems with re-seating my headlights before, and after having a tech look at it with me, he found that the headlight tool can round out, thus making it difficult for the headlight to be snapped back in place. At the same time, the receiving piece where the headlight socket connects to internally can round out as well, so it is possible that your tool if not rounded, might be not catching well on the internal piece that unlocks the headlight. That being said, I can't really think of how you can get it removed at this point. Maybe giving the headlight a good tug might release it, but it may also break some tabs on the headlight.

For these reasons, I try to not remove my headlight cluster at all unless I have to due to burned out bulbs. Porsche should've made it so that these headlight clusters screw in from behind and then have releasable covers in the back to facilitate bulb replacements, IMO.

P.S.....I have been told, by a reputable Porsche mechanic, that if you were to remove the islation mount from a stock muffler and mount it solid as all the aftermarket mufflers mount, that it would introduce some resonance as well. I have been thinking about trying to adapt the stock isolator bar to my aftermarket exhaust to see if it cuts down on the resonance any.

I doubt that would help much. GHL's mount using the stock isolator bar, and they still resonate. Ditto, the B&B exhausts. Also, the factory mufflers on the 97-99 boxsters were mounted solid, as they didn't introduce the vibration isolator mount until model year 2000, but even then, the early OEM mufflers didn't noticeably resonate. I think at the end of the day, it's the muffler interior design that determines the amount of resonance you get.

This has been happening for a while, and I'm wondering if it's a problem or not- I've noticed that when I turn the key to start the car, the car starts up right away without hearing the starter cranking. I thought when you turn the key, you're supposed to hear the car crank and then turn over? It seems as if it just turns over right away and skips the cranking part. Is this normal? The battery is a Sears Diehard Int'l and is only about 2.5 yrs old, so I don't think it is the battery. Any ideas?

Car is an 01 Boxster.

Thanks in advance.

Yesterday I was driving to work and I started hearing a very alarming noise and felt my car wobbling. I stopped immediately and got out to check for a flat tire. All was good and even checked my tire pressure. I got back and drove about another two hundred yards to my parking spot and was not amused with the situation. When I parked my car, I then started to inspect my car and after looking at my left rear wheel, I noticed two lug bolts are missing. One was the anti -theft bolt too. So, I grabbed the tire change kit out of the car and jack the left rear yo make sure it would seat against the rotor and then tightened the other three down on the wheel and found them they all where very loose. I then went around the whole car and checked all the bolts and the fronts were tight and the right rear ones were very loose too. I took one of the lug bolts bolts off the right rear and put it on the left rear to secure the left better than what it is. Drove it home after work and ordered two new bolts and I'm waiting for delivery. This same thing happened a few months a go on the left front but no bolts came off. The last person to touch my wheels have been the dealer and I just car my 45K inspection done last month. I can't prove it was their fault but I've videoed them doing crappy maintenance on my car but, that's another story.

Now question is, is there a problem with these style of lug nuts and is there another way to prevent the loosening of them? I have the stock wheels with no spacers. A lot of people who know cars suggest Locktite and I don't thing that would be a good idea. I was thinking anti seize tape but I'm not too sure about that either. Any thoughts on this will definitely be welcomed.

TIA!

:help:

That is very scary indeed. After reading that even one of your security lock bolts came out totally from one wheel, I am thinking that your dealer probably cross threaded some bolts when they reinstalled your wheels. You should really first thread the bolts with your hand for a bit before using any impact wrench to fully tighten the bolts, as it's easy to cross thread the bolts if you just use the impact wrench from the start. This would explain why the bolts just came clear off while driving. I'd say you're very lucky a wheel didn't totally come off and cause an accident.

I would not use any thread lock application like Loctite on these bolts, but instead, buy a torque wrench at an autoparts store and every once in a while, make sure that the bolts on your wheels are at the factory specified (96 ft. lbs I think) of torque when tightened. They should not come loose like that.

Search this over on ppbb.com. Someone over there found a motorcycle resonator (maybe HD??) that they fixed into the tips that they said worked wonders.

I think they are drag pipe inserts, but I know someone who installed them on their GHL, but it also didn't help much. I think with the GHL, you have to a) either learn to live with the resonance, B) keep it above 3K rpms, or c) wear ear plugs when you drive. :D

I recently DIY'ed 4 new Zimmerman drilled rotors and used Minitex pads. Bled the system with new Blue fluid. Works well but a get a dang blasted sqealing when applying light brake pressure. I can't target a specific wheel when I'm driving. After a week or two, I removed all 8 pads and greased the back we with copious amounts of high temp brake grease. Cleaned them well with Brake Cleaner. Still squealing.

What next? I'm inclided to sand all the pads a mil and perhaps champher the leading and training edges( I don't know why, just a feeling). Any better ideas?

It may be normal but I want to get rid of it.

By the way I highly ecourage DIY brakes. Its easier and cheaper to replace all 4 with upgraded or OE part then it is to have a shop just replace pads. Porsche made it super easy.

Just buy a set of these anti-squeal brake liners, and stick them on the back of the pad backing plate and then reinsert the pads. This will quiet your squeal problem. I had the same issue when I installed new Pagid replacement pads, and this did the trick.

http://www.automotion.com/productpage.aspx...i-Squeal+Liners

regarding power steering fluid - is there a specific term ? I called Porsche in Milano and they did NOT speak english... 5. times they reached the conclusion that I had to change oil and when I in sounds tried to describe the sound the steering wheel made they became VERY quite in the phone... I think they were laughing pretty hard !

Is it normal that it uses some power steering fluid over time or is there a leak I should find ?

I have to get it pressure tested... I hope it's just another leak and not a crack in the engine.

Thanks Rodger, I am leaving for the Porsche mechanic tomorrow so your advice came just in time!! You wouldnt happen to speak Italian, now that would be helpful ;) ?

Regarding your coolant loss, it could be as simple as you having the old coolant cap. Look at the top of the coolant cap on your car. If the part# ends in 00, it's the old version cap, which sometimes leads to coolant busting out after a spirited drive. The cap has since been revised, and if you look at the top of the cap, and the part number ends in 01, it is the newer, revised version.

As for your power steering refill need, just look at this link. It shows you the way to get to your engine to view the power steering cap where you can fill the fluid. On the last picture, the power steering fluid cap is the one right behind the drivers seat back. Make sure you buy the right fluid, and when you refill, don't fill too much- the reservoir is small. Add a little at a time. It's Pentosin brand CHF 11S. It looks like this:

Link to show you how to get to engine: http://www.realtime.net/%7Erentner/Blog/B6...3469/index.html

I too had problems locking in my headlights until I realized the cheap-o wrench provided in the Boxster's tool kit (stamped steel) was worn just enough that the flats slipped on the locking bar hex. Using a hex socket on a ratchet extension worked just fine. The over-center design of the locking mechanism requires a fair bit of force and will announce the locked position with a solid"clunk" as it reaches about 90 degrees of rotation. Hope this helps. B)

I also had the same problem- was trying for the longest time to lock my litronics back in after replacing some burned out parking lamps, and just couldn't do it. Finally realized that the factory headlight tool was rounded. Borrowed a tool to get the headlamps locked back in, and ordered a new headlight tool.

I have a problem w/my 986S.

The passanger rear fog light is not working. The drivers side is working fine. I accessed the panel for the lights and found out the bulb was missing so I put a new and it still is not working but the bulb works on the drivers panel. I checked the fuse and it's fine. I really don't know what else to do. I troubleshooted it w/ the fuse and using another bulb but no luck. Maybe I'm missing something here, no clue.

If anyone has any suggestions, please do let me know.

Also, I had a ? w/ the temp.

My temp is usually in between the 180 and the next line after it. I noticed that it would sometimes almost reach the next line, then a few minutes later it decreases to almost the 180 mark and stay for a while then start climbing to the follwing marker again. Back and Forth in a period of 1hr.

I don't know if that's kind of wierd or just normal operating.

Or maybe the temp. rises and fall due to my driving. I cleaned the radiator ducts of leaves and trash and hosed dirt & fix blown fuse.

The passenger side rear fog light is not supposed to work. For the rear, only the driver's side is supposed to turn on. This is on purpose, so that in fog, people don't think that your brake lights are on at all times, but instead, so that they can just notice that a car is in front of them.

Not sure about your temp fluctuation issue. Maybe someone else can chime in to help.

First, please excuse my ignorance here. I have searched and not had much luck, and am new to dealing with Porsches. This is actually my sister's car and she bought it used. She has no owners manual. It is a 2001 Boxster S

We had to replace her battery, mainly due to age. After doing so, there are a few indicators staying on, and I am wondering how to reset them. I followed the instructions for resetting the windows.

I have the following issues:

1. The indicator on the dash for the convertible top stays on as if the top is not secured. I have raised and lowered the top, and made sure the latch above the mirror is locked. Still can't get the light to go off.

2. The radio wants a code input. Since she has no owners manual or info, we don't know the code. Is there a way to retrieve it?

3. The air bag light is staying on.

Car runs great and no other issues.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jim

Did you have the key in the ignition when you changed the battery? I'm afraid when you do this, those lights will end up staying on. Unless I'm mistaken, you'll now need to take the car to the dealer for them to reset the lights. The dealer will also be able to find the radio code with your VIN#. Good luck

From eBay, I see a number of these available, look to be pretty much all the same blue anodized piece with chrome shift handle.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...A%3AIT&rd=1

Do they work well, and feed back from those that have tried them, etc.

Thanks, Al

Al;

I have a B&M short shifter installed. Looks alot like that one. The handle does stand up straight in neutral. The best part is shifting with a simple rotation of your wrist. Your arm does not have to move.

Jim Greer

Hey Jim, a couple of things, does the stock shifter knob fit on these and does it sit in the correct position for neutral? (Boxstaboy's comment has me concerned...)

Thanks, Al

Westcoaster, honestly, I would forgo the ebay clone shifter because it won't sit straight up in neutral after installed. It will be angled slightly toward the driver. It works fine, but the fact that it didn't look stock after installation would bother me if I put it in my car, and might bother the next buyer of your car too. IMHO, go for either the B&M shifter or the Schnell. They may cost a little more, but both sit in the correct position when installed. All 3 (Ebay, Schnell, and B&M) will accept the stock shift knob btw.

I have seen these installed at an informal tech session here in the East Coast, and have noticed that when installed they don't allow the shift knob to sit straight up and center when in neutral.... ie. they are angled toward the driver when installed. If this doesn't bother you, then I think it's fine.

Nope. I have the same exhaust installed on my 01 Boxster, and it was a simple bolt on installation. The u-pipes slide into the exhaust openings (push all the way in as far as you can), and then you clamp them down tight with the Porsche OEM clamps. No leaks. There is no need to fabricate bushings.

Sorry for linking to a picture from one of Clubhead's posts, but I wanted to see if anyone knew if this exhaust part was necessary- in the linked picture, the PSE sports exhaust has a thin wire crossmember bracket that attaches to the exhaust to the transmission. You can see it at the rear of the muffler. My exhaust has the top bracket with the vibration isolators, as what is shown in the picture, but the wire bracket is missing. Is this part absolutely needed, or did Porsche do away with this in a particular year? Mine is an 01.

Thanks in advance.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?a...ost&id=1371

Don't know the formulation of Rain-X, but the Plexus, which I use regularly for my rear window seems to work quite well. I havn't had the problem for weeks now since applying the plexus.

What worked for me was applying some Plexus plastic polish to the window. Makes it slippery enough to not grab the rubber seal on the way down. Hope that helps.

The leveling system uses stepper motors to postion the projector units. When switched on, the lights start from their previous position, motor down to the bottom end stop (so the system can self calibrate the projector position) then motor to the calculated level position. Where your lights are set, is anybody's guess as they will remain in the position prior to disconnection. This will depend on whether your friend's car was loaded/unloaded, on a slope, on high beam or being calibrated.

Most self leveling systems are set to a basic settting position by the factory diagnostic tool, beam set with car level and unloaded, then basic setting stored.

Thanks. That helps a lot. Before I removed my friend's lights, I had him turn on the lights in his car with the car level, and unloaded. Therefore, according to what you are saying then, is that the stepper motors then leveled the lights to the correct calculated level, and then stayed at that level when we shut off the lights. Therefore, it would seem that when I put the lights into my car, it would then turn on at the same level they were last turned off at, and all should be fine then.

Also, are the stepper motors located in the litronic light unit itself? Just curious. Thanks again.

Xenon is low beam and halogen is high. When you select high the low beam rotates up a few degrees to fill in with the high beam.

Since you do not have the control unit you do not have this feature, unless you buy it and install it.

There are others over the years who have done just what you did, so I would not worry about it.

Thanks Tool Pants. I was just curious because it seemed that when my friend turned his lights on, they started in the down position and the swiveled up to light up. If I don't have the self-leveling feature, then I would think the beam would point down when turned on and then stay in the down position, unless the lights somehow knew that there was no longer a self level feature, and thus ignite with the lights automatically in a default up position.

I recently installed a set of litronic headlights from a friend who sold his car and let me swap out his litronics for my halogens. I noticed that when he first turned them on before I took them out, that the lights self-leveled from a down position to an up position. Pretty neat. I know that this feature would not work unless they were installed at the factory. I put the lights in my car, and then tested them out. Everything seemed fine, and I think all is normal. However, I was wondering if since I don't have this self-leveling system, when I turn the lights on, do they turn on and point down as they did on my friend's car, or do the turn on at a default level, bypassing the swivel up feature?

Reason I ask, of course, is that I'm worried the beam is not pointing high enough as they don't swivel up upon turning them on. Thanks in advance.