Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

b_creative3

Contributing Members
  • Posts

    35
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by b_creative3

  1. Thanks guys,

    Did the pads and rotors last night, the instruction I downloaded is great and very easy to follow. The hardest part is getting out the sensor clips out from the old pads. I bought a pair of Norco jack stands and the saddle is perfect and very secure for our cars, the construction is very tough and the lowest height is 9.5". I did one wheel at a time so took me a little longer. Thanks all for the valuable info.

    Andy

  2. Hey b_creative3

    I recently got new pad's & disc's package for my 2001 C4 the brand for the pads is Textar. (from www.Design911.co.uk)

    I did a bit of research before I bought them and they are perfectly fine, in fact I think they actually make the Porsche OME pads.

    Just with a differant stamp and price tag on them. The only thing that I notice is the the "break pad ware sensor contact" has become faulty,

    causing a warning light to show, but it's no big deal as I know all is fine, just have to replace the contact.

    Other than this, I'm happy with the Textar brand there fine if it's just for every day driving, but I'd maybe choose an other if the car is going to be

    used on a the track.

    Safe driving:)

    Hi James,

    Many thanks for the confirmation, this is good to know since I will be working on this next week.

    Have a great weekend.

    Andy

  3. Hi Loren, I have that downloaded and read through the whole thing. My question though is if it's safe to do just one wheel at a time since if so, the jack stand tends to be off-centered (photo). Any thoughts? Thanks.

    Andy

    No, always get the jack stands centered as you could bump the car and it could fall.

    I like to leave the jack and/or a wheel under the car where I am working just in case.

    Hi Loren, thanks for your advice. I will make certain that I leave the jack attached as well.

    Andy

  4. when i did my brakes i just loosened the lugs, then jacked up at jack point and got to work. no real need for the stands. It is a quick job and you are not really tugging on stuff at all.

    and just a thing I always make sure... keep doors/trunks/bonnets closed when I jack a car...

    not sure if is an issue with our cars, but is something I always make sure to do.

    Thanks 714dre, I will keep that in mind.

    Andy

  5. Hi all,

    I will be replacing pads and rotors for the front end. I will perform one wheel at a time and I wonder if that is a safe idea, or should I jack up the whole front to work on both wheel at a time? Attached some photos where I jacked the car up at the left rear jacking point, and a jack stand at the left front point. Do these look safe to you? Especially the placement of the jack stand.

    thanks,

    Andy

    post-7183-1250118585_thumb.jpg

    post-7183-1250118599_thumb.jpg

    post-7183-1250118607_thumb.jpg

  6. Well…finally got to the brakes today. I bought parts for the front and rear based on RFM’s comments about the rear pads at 48K too. Sure enough, I had one sensor worn through in the rear and one in the front (I drove another 200-300 miles after the brake pad workshop indicator came on). The one rear one was really worn through.

    I’ve always been an OEM guy…but for my ’06 Cayenne I went with the Hawk dustless pads. It is a beautiful vehicle and I just hate how quick the wheels get dusty. It’s a SoCal Cayenne, so I keep it washed weekly and always looking good. Anyway, I hate dirty wheels. I’ll give these pads a shot. I heard a few good comments from posting’s here.

    Here’s what I went with:

    HB512Z.605 – Hawk Dustless Pads – Front (330mm rotor)

    HB502Z.606 – Hake Dustless Pads – Rear (330mm rotor)

    Total: $253.73 with tax and shipping

    Jeff at Sunset set me up with the sensors and brake Hardware:

    (2) 955-612-365-00 – Brake Wear Sensors at $11.50ea or $23.00 set

    (2) 955-612-365-30 – Brake Wear Sensors at $11.50ea or $23.00 set

    (2) 955-351-959-00 – Front Caliper hardware kit (kitted as pair) $33.82

    (2) 955-352-960-00 – Rear Caliper hardware kit (kitted as pair) $21.64

    Total price for front and rear brakes (no rotors) $364.19…not too bad for two hours of work on a Saturday morning.

    I found the calipers exceptionally easy to work with. I have the right tools for most jobs, which makes this kind of DIY fairly easy. I had no trouble removing the pins or anything for that matter. It was surprisingly quick. Seemed easier than my Boxster…the biggest hassle was removing each wheel (20's are heavy).

    Started it up…no more brake pad workshop error. Took it for a twenty minute spin to seat the pads…not a sound, squeal, or anything. I used synthetic brake pad grease on the backs of the rear pads. The fronts came with this really cool high performance orange looking grease, so I used that. Not a sound.

    The brake job is a very easy DIY.

    All the best,

    Bill :beer:

    Hi Bill,

    I am also about to change the pads on my 2005 Cayenne S, this will be the first time I change any brake pads so I would like to thank you for your write up here.

    One question after reading this, you mentioned about the grease on the rear pads, what are they and where should it be applied? Same question on front pads too. Are there any other things I should be watching out for? I tend to like to get a detailed procedure list before I dare to move forward with anything on the car...

    Thanks a BUNCH.

    Andy

  7. Hello all,

    I am planning on doing the brake pads on my 2003 996 and 2005 Cayenne S soon, and I wonder--

    1. If the procedures for both vehicles are the same,

    2. Is changing the brake fluid a must?

    3. Where are the precise jacking points for both cars with a floor jack?

    4. Which floor jack should I get that can be suitable for these two vehicles?

    I found some DIYs from this site, but this is the first time I do brake pads, can someone please tell me what should I be watching out for?

    Many thanks everyone.

    Andy

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.