quicksilver77

Some very valid, and less expensive ideas from izzy!

Sean, Yes, I'm not in the habit of braking hard in a turn. ;-) I'm saying, braking in a straight line, the front wheels start to lose traction, and the ABS kicks in a lot sooner than I would like. I'm not getting any bruises from my seat belts. The car seems to track properly, handles great, and doesn't get at all twitchy under heavy braking, so I'm assuming the front end alignment isn't causing this. I'm running about 33 psi in the fronts at present. I have noticed the tires seem to work much better heated up. A friend with a 2000 C4 has 18" wheels and brand new Pirelli tires (not sure of the model) that he is going to let me put on my car and experiment with. Bill Bill, A common problem with the 996, and often noted, is the "floating" feeling from the front end of the car. Although it was most apparent to me in transition from corner to corner, perhaps it is contributing to your traction issues? My fix was the addition of RoW M030 (european suspension) as opposed to the increased ride height US spec suspension, which seems to cause the floating feeling. In regards to the brakes, I have done nothing to the calipers or rotors, but I have changed to Super Blue brake fluid and added stainless steel brake lines at the front and rear. I can not imagine that these changes would cause my car to stop any better than yours, under normal situations. So essentially we have the same brakes on our cars, and I do not experience the same poor traction issues... So let's hope that tyres are the problem, that would make life easy! :lol: Good luck! -Sean

Sean, thanks for the reply. This brings up another question. In my car, it seems the weakest point is the braking traction of the front tires. I have 17" wheels, and the Michelin Pilot Sport (not the "N" marked OEM). Cornering they seem fine, but braking performance leaves a lot to be desired. Is this normal? Bill Bill, I am not sure I am understanding you completely... Under braking you are losing traction with the front wheels? Help me understand you better. Under braking, (I am assuming that you do the lions share of which in a straight line prior to turning in), The weight of the car is transfered to the front, which effectivly IMPROVES traction at the front of the car. So under what circumstances do you feel that front traction is lacking? I also ran Pilot Sport OEM tyres for a year or so, although it was on an 18 inch wheel, and I have nothing but good things to say about the tyre. Although the PS2's do offer a measurable improvement, especially when the road gets wet! Wish I could be more help. -Sean

Bill, Around town,and doing canyon runs (spirited driving), I always heel-toe, (it's good practice) and in light brake pressure situations, I agree that the throttle is too low, or the brake too high for proficient heel-toe work. However, on the track, where the brake is applied with vigor, (by vigor I mean that the seat belt leaves bruises on your shoulder) I find that it is just fine! :drive: -Sean

Berny, I did not have to roll my fenders at all, and I have had no rubbing issues at all! Perhaps it has to do with weel choice? -Sean

How did the testing go? Did you fire her up with no mufflers on?! Fabspeed has the Cup Bypass pipes, which are basically just pipe off of the cats! Great for the track... BAD for the neighborhood!!! (I had a set fabricated because I am poor) But it would be interesting to see those results next to the sport exhaust systems! Just thought that I would add more fuel to the fire! Have a great day! -Sean

I have the RoW M030 suspension as well as iForged 19" wheels, ride quality is fine, no giant increase in cabin noise, no rubbing at full lock, no down sides to this combo. w/PS2's

I have iForged Swift 3pc 19" wheels and pairing them with Michelin PS2's 235F 315R, I noticed no major ride quality issues, road noise will be increased though. I also have the RoW M030 kit on the car, and my only complaint is that I now have to really watch steep driveways, gutters, and curbs; it is worth it though! Have fun! :jump:

Izzy, I am still interested! How much do you want for those "horrible" things? -Sean

I get 20.3-20.4 combined city and highway.

Hello all, I am a M.E. student, and for a computer simulation class I have decided to build a model of a 3.4L piston/crank/connecting rod assembly, and apply FEA to obtain stress levels within the system. Now that I have put you all to sleep, I need to get my hands on some technical drawings/sketches so I can create a realistic simulation. Any ideas where I can get these tech drawings: -Piston -Connecting Rods -Crank Any help would be great! Thanks, Sean

If you have the US spec M030 struts (US sport package) you CAN just change the springs, however if you do not have this option, the struts AND springs must be replaced. Different valving in the sport suspension struts. -Sean

I swap my exhaust from stock to Fabspeed Cup Bypass pipes quite a bit. (can't stand the noise on the street, and neither can the neighbors!) I have access to a friends shop, and therefor a lift. To your question... The exhaust can be changed w/o taking the wheels off. If you are cool with just kick'n it on your back in the drive... have a good time! What exhaust are you putting on? -SD

I am pretty biased, but I am a Michelin fan. I too live in California, and would highly recommend the PS2's. They are pricey, but they have excellent wet weather traction, as I found at Laguna Seca, and still have great dry weather traction due to the tread pattern of the tire. Expect to get about 10-15,000 from the rears and 30,000ish from the fronts. They have a very compliant ride quality, even on my 19" wheels. Low road noise, and they do not follow grooved pavement. A great all around tire! That is just me on my soap box! Happy hunting! -Sean PS: other tires I have tried: Pirelli P Zero Nero Pirelli P Zero Asym Michelin Pilot Sport Dunlop SP9000 (something like that) Hope this helps, but remember this is just my 2 cents, our driving styles can be completely different, and what I like, you may hate!

Thanks Loren, Looks like we are in the clear! -Sean :cheers:

This part number is on the inside of a bumper skin I received from LAPorsche. They assured me that this skin is OE, "since that is all they deal with" and that it will fit MY01. I was quite clear when I asked prior to purchasing that this was an OE bumper. I am just not sure if I should take this thing to the body shop, have them cut the 3rd radiator hole, prep it and paint it, only to find out that it does not fit. I have taken numerous measurements off the existing bumper, and compared them to the new bumper... everything seems the same.... Famous last words, I know, but I am kind of at a loss. Any recommendations? -SD

Of course it would help if I put the part number in the body of the text!!! Part Number: 996 505 983 01 There we go! :clapping:

Help! Is this a legitimate OE part number for a GT3 aero kit front bumper???

I too picked up a used p-car, (MY01 996 cpe) with 13,000 miles on it, still under factory warranty for a year. It appeared to be a GQ, as I purchased it 12/04. I bought it third party, after insisting on taking it to two inde. p-car shops for inspection. It got a clean bill of health, from both, and I took the plunge. I have had the car for about a year now, and I am absolutely in love. No maintenance issues whatsoever! Oil changes/Tyres/Wiperblades, that is all. The car is a daily driver, and my track car wrapped into one. (8 track weekends this year, so far) Unfortunately, it seems as though, you got stuck with an anomily. Porsche's are meant to be driven, and "there is no substitute!" :notworthy:

The swap is super easy! The battery is a CR2032 (watch/cyclometer battery). Just pop the back off your key and replace! No programming was needed with my key. Good luck -SD :thumbup:

Many thanks to all of you for your input! It sounds like I am going to become very aquainted with brake pad swaps! Hope to see you at the track! :drive:

I am a firm believer that Porsche engineers spend a whole lot more time understanding the dynamics/weight balance/the whole picture if you will; of the way a Porsche should handle; than any other company on the planet. As such, I would recommend the Porsche RoW springs. They will retain a fairly compliant ride, which can be compromised with aftermarket springs. Since you already have the US sport suspension package, the new springs will go on with no need to change anything else, seeing as ride height is the major attribute which you desire. The RoW kit is available online at: www.carnewal.com The entire kit was just over a grand, and the company was great to work with. Good luck!

Perhaps I should elaborate... Seeing that I have had quite a few views of the original post and no responses. The pads I am considering are the: Pagid yellow Hawk Blue I do not know anyone with experience with these pads on a 996. Again I am looking for a pad which fulfills the following criteria, which are listed in order of importance: -Low incidence of fade -Low amounts of brake dust -Easy on the rotors -Low noise (street) I am fully aware that a brake pads which exhibits all of these characteristics do not exist, if they did... well there would only be one pad manufacturer. On my previous car (2002 Audi A4 1.8TA Quattro) I ran Mintex Red, which were alright, but on the Porsche I have only ran the OE pads; which trow too much dust, and after the second lap, at any of my local tracks: T-Hill, Sears, or Laguna, the brakes have started to fade. If anyone has used one or both of these pads, your input would be most helpful! Thanks in advance! -Sean

OK, so I am preparing to change the front brake pads on my MY01 996 Coupe, and I am in a quandary... I attend track days at least once a month, so I need a fade resistant pad, but I also drive the car daily with a set of custom iForged wheels, so I really do not like dust either. I am contemplating swapping pads for track days, seeing as though I do have to swap wheels for the track set anyway. That said, I am lazy, and would prefer to not have to swap pads monthly. So the question I have is: What pad will offer the best compromise between fade resistance, rotor wear, and low dust? On the track I drive her like I stole her, but she is babied every other day. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks! -Sean 2001 996 C2 Manual