quicksilver77

The easiest mod is a 1 bar spring in the waste gate

The funnest one is a boost knob and a large boost gauge in place of the clock

A word of warning, boost is like drugs, booze or sex you just have to have it and extended periods of hi boost

result in melted pistons

Well if your car is indeed stock one of the best mods you can do would be the exhaust and a k27 turbo. The boost will come on earlier and more progressively.

I run the GHL headers with heat, although truth be known the heat works like the AC on these cars. Which is in a word: poorly.

The wastegate spring is a good way to make some quick HP gains but extended periods of time at this boost level will burn the stock pistons due to a lean condition. This can be addressed with fueling through an adjustable WUR, also a great mod, but honestly without an updated turbo you probably will not be able to maintain 1bar of boost for any length of time anyway, the stock turbo will run out of breath pretty quickly.

Hope this helps,

Sean

87 930

+1 for the PS2's!

Hello All! I have a quick question. First the background information...

The Car: 2001 996 C2

The Headunit: Becker CDR-220

The Link: Dension Ice Link Plus

Question:

If I were to install a CD changer will I need to have the headunit programmed to recognize the changer, since it did not leave the factory with the changer installed? Or is it just a plug and play install?

I ask because I am installing a iPod link which should be recognized by the headunit as a CD changer. However after the install there is no CDC/MCD source option as I toggle through... The firmware is up to date, the software is current, the wiring install is done correctly, but no dice! Dension says that the headunit may need to be programmed to allow the CD changer to be active, and Porsche says that there is no programming to be done for the headunit. I'm so confused!!!!

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

-Sean

Fault code 46 - Driver's belt buckle

Possible cause of fault

. Incorrect coding

. Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the wiring between the driver's belt buckle and the airbag triggering unit

. Driver's belt buckle faulty

. Triggering unit for airbag faulty

The airbag triggering unit is: 996.618.219.02 with an MSRP of $481.36 (as of June 2006)

Thank you all for your help!

-SD

I would highly recommend purchasing an extended warranty for anyone buying a pre-owned 996. The risk of RMS failure was enough for me to get one from CNA roughly $2500. It has already payed for itself in the way of new coolant expansion tank, RMS and IMS seal replacement.

It is great to enjoy the new P-car, and not have to worry about the little things! I feel that peace of mind is worth the money!

-Sean

Alright here is the part number for the relay...

996-618-211902

Any ideas?

The Fault Code is 46. They noted that the drivers buckle was already updated.

Thanks Again.

Sean

As for the control unit...

I will find out tomorrow. In regards to the other garage... At that price I will absolutely!!

So a week ago the airbag warning light came on, so I took my 01' C2 to the dealership to have it inspected. They found that the airbag relay was bad and needed to be replaced. I was quoted $622 for the relay and labor. I asked if the airbags were inoperative, and was told it was a roll of the dice.

Question 1: $622????????? Last I checked relays were not that expensive! And it is not like it is located inside the engine block!

Question two: Is it really a roll of the dice?

Thanks in advance!

-Sean

I have 4 cars (2 porsches) and my 996 aero is a street only creature. Brake dust on my nice 3 piece wheels is becoming increasingly bothersome with the stock pads. Does anyone have any suggestions for pads that provide OEM-like friction coefficients but are extremely low dust? I don't need track or autocross performance and fade is not an issue on the street, so OEM grip and low dust are the primary factors. I have been considering the Axxis Deluxe (organic) and Axxis metal master and the Hawk Performance Ceramic. I'm upgrading to cross drilled AND slotted Brembo rotors, so initial bite will be enhanced slightly.

I agree, dust on 3-pc wheels is a huge pain!! I have been using the Hawk Ceramic pads for low dust and been pretty happy with them.

Good Luck.

-SD

Improved sound, and throttle response, but not power.

I am running a Hawk ceramic (low dust) pad, and have been very pleased with the results, or lack thereof. Bad news is that before tracking the car I get to do a pad change.

I am using a BMC, it set off my MAF sensor when it was brand new, but after cleaning the sensor, and 10,000 miles later everything has been fine.

Is there an improved throttle response with the intake/exhaust/chip combo?

Thanks for the help everyone! Did the plug change last night!

Hi..New member...Play nice Guys...

I own a UK spec. RHD 996 C4S Cab with the switchable Sports exhaust. The default position at switch on is "sports" which sounds great to me but doesn't always impress, late at night if I start up and forget to switch it off before I do so.

Does anyone know if it is possible to default the switch to "OFF" to save me from the torrids of abuse emanating from those strange people who do not see the poetry in a flat 6 without a silencer.

Another nice to have would be a "chirp" confirmation that the alarm is set/unset as don't always hear the locks go and the turn signals don't always get my attention as I walk away.

Finally, Has anyone found a way of adding a click or chime to the turn signal as I have been know to drive for some distance, with the turn signals un-cancelled, from a merging junction...very un-cool.

In reply to your desire to have a "chirp" when the alarm is set. Press the lock button twice fairly quickly. The horn should signal that the car is locked. At least that works on mine!

As far as the rest... You are on your own!

-Sean

I was having the same issue. I hated not being able to hear an audible signal that the car was locked. Upon a bit of reading, I found that when you lock the car if you push the lock button twice in rapid succession (twice in two seconds or so) that the horn does signal that the car is locked. At least on mine, 2001 C2.

There is, to my limited knowledge, no way to have an audible signal for the car being unlocked. Hope this helps!

-Sean

The wheels look great! What was the charge for the finishing?

Hello 996 Forum!

I am considering a custom tuned chip upgrade for my 01 996 C2 Coupe. The reason I want a custom chip is because I have a Fabspeed cold air intake, as well as Fabspeed mufflers (HUGE THANKS TO IZZYANDSUE) and I would like to maximize these upgrades, as well as exploit as much power as possible from my lil' 3.4L (no supercharger yet)! I have heard great things from a few reputable sources that The Racers Groupe (TRG, henceforth) in Sonoma California is the premier custom tuner. I am inclined to agree when you look at their ALMS record with their P-Cars.

Has anyone tried these guys out? Every time I call, they are always super busy with an up coming ALMS or World Speed Challenge event. Are they worth the wait?

Also what are the advantages of a piggy back chip compared to a hardwired unit and visa versa? Your help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

-Sean

Izzy,

I can not express enough gratitude for your kindness and promptness! I just hope the goodies are not too LOUD!!!! Next time you visit Northern California, look me up! The beer is on me!

:cheers:

Thanks again!

-Sean

Hey Sean,

I did my plugs at 36K, figure I would do it faster than the recommended, since you are tracking so much (you lucky dog!), it wouldn't hurt. And you have those shiny high performance mufflers coming.

You can do it, anyone can do it if I can. The rearmost plugs are the hardest to remove. I think next time I will remove the rear wheels, bumper cover, and mufflers. It may add 30 minutes to the job, but I got fat fingers and need all the space.

For the price of the plugs from Sunset, it is a pretty cheap job if you DIY. While I was doing the plugs, I also changed the tubes and o-rings. It added $20 to the job, but I have read how dealers change them all at the same time. I would hate to go through the contortions of changing plugs and then go back later and replace the plastic tubes. I thought the duty cycles must be pretty close anyway. It is analogous to Vegas and not putting your spare change in the slot machine you are walking by, know what I mean?

This is a picture of the "tool" I used to remove the plugs. It is now patented.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=5818&hl=

I think I did the whole thing from Sunset, somewhere in the $50 range for all parts. Took me about 2 hours. About 1 1/2 hour for the first side, 30 mins the other after I figure out the tricks.

I did notice smoother idling after the job was done. And what the heck, it was fun anyway.

Izzy

Izzy,

I nearly fell out of my chair laughing as I scrolled through you link to your "patented" tool! Seriously, my eyes are still watering!

Did you change plugs with the OEM replacement Bosch/Beru plugs or did you go with a different option?

I am quite glad to hear that I am not running lean though thanks ZX7R!

I ususally make my passengers sit on plastic garbage bags and towels! It keeps the mess off the seats! :clapping:

I am very sorry to hear about your dealership woes! It really sucks that after you pony up for a P-car that they do not "take care of you!"

How did the wheel/tyre swap pan out? Or have you done it yet

-Sean

Hello all,

It is time for the 30k service on my 2001 996 C2 Coupe, and from the reading I have been doing, it looks like I am on the cusp: MY98-01 996's needed to replace spark plugs at 30k, but MY01-04 996's replace plugs every 60k.

Referring to the owners manual it says 60k. That said, the owners manual also says to change oil every 15k... Yeah, I don't follow those instructions either. I change the oil every 7,500 miles (cheap insurance?) does anyone ACTUALLY do their oil every 15k? :eek:

My question is this: Should I change the plugs at 30k or hold off? No one likes to throw away money. For a bit of background, I try to track the car at least once a month, she is a daily driver, and is having no problems to date. What do you all think?

As a side note, I pulled the rear most plug from each bank don't laugh, I had some extra time and I wanted to see if I was up to the DIY (I also had not purchased the new plugs), neither was fouled, but both looked like I might be running a bit lean, ie. the plugs were dry but had a light brown dusty coating to them? Is my diagnosis correct? Second opinion? Or is this normal?

One more question. I have been trying to find a set of Bosch Platinum +4 plugs for my 3.4L, and I have been coming up empty. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance,

-Sean

You know it is the small things in life that get me by! Keep up the good work Loren, I truly appreciate your efforts, and time invested! :cheers:

Loren... The hand of God steps in and puts the smack down! :renntech:

Bill,

As I get ready to take the car on a canyon run or out onto the track I move my seat back 3-4 inches and then put on my seatbelt. Then I give the seatbelt a quick jerk so it locks at a certain length and I advance my seat position back to the proper position; all the while keeping a load on the seatbelt, to keep it from moving. As I move forward my body then applies the load to the seatbelt, and effectively locks me into place, keeping me from sliding around the cockpit. A four or five point harnesses would be better, but I would need new seats, so that will have to wait for a while, in the meantime this trick with the old three point restraint is getting me by. After a day at the track, my shoulder is tender, but there is no visible bruising. Sorry to make you think that the car was going to beat you up that bad!

But back to the subject matter, P-cars are renowned for their braking abilities, so if you still have issues with poor braking, it is not normal. If it is a CPO the dealer should be receptive to your issues. As far as Porsche installing new pads before sale... I would find it unlikely. I think they just inspect items, and if they are within their arbitrary spec then they are left alone.

Keep us posted!

-Sean