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tmc

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Everything posted by tmc

  1. After trying to debug my cruise control problem, I've become an expert at removing the console <_< Actually it's amazingly similar, except you do not need to pull out the hazard switch. Pull off the hazard switch cover and the Torx screw is already visible w/o removing the switch. The other side is the 'fake' microphone and it is just as on the 986 boxster (pry it off and remove the Torx screw inside). Tom
  2. B7 is good. By 4-way connector, you mean the one that attaches to the stalk? It's the right way. What does the other end connect to? Loren's diagram showed it connecting to the "CONTROL UNIT CRUISE CONTROL". Where is that located in the car? Maybe I accidentally disconnected that. Thanks!
  3. Yes, probably. I went back in and re-tightened the bolt and then tightened the lock washer, and it no longer rocks around.
  4. Hi Tool Pants, I tried the swap of putting the 3-stalk back in and the same behavior results: no cruise, no light in the cluster when I press the switch, nada. Where is the clutch pedal switch? Thanks tmc
  5. Not sure how I could get that reversed, but anyway, I didn't mess with either the female or male side of the connector. Guess I'll either live w/o cruise or take it to a dealer :(
  6. :D Yeah I did that, or at least I think we're talking about the same thing. There's a small four-wire connector that comes off of the stalk assembly. Wires out of that connector were, if I recall, a brown/yellow wire, a yellow wire, a blue wire and a black wire. The black was the only one I could trace with my ohm meter (it's ground....)
  7. Thanks Loren! Do you know where the cruise control unit is located physically? Maybe I bumped a lead off when I did my OBC hack. tmc
  8. I rechecked (twice). The OBC works and yeah, I had someone turn it on before I did the retrofit. Do you know if the cruise control goes through the cluster, and if so, is it through the same (white) connector, or through the blue or black one? It seems the key wire out of the four-wire cruise control connector is the brown-yellow wire, but I don't see where else that goes. thanks tmc
  9. Got a head scratcher here... My local shop replaced the ignition switch on my 99 996 C2. I didn't use the cruise control after they did that. A couple of days later, I did the OBC retrofit (yesterday). The cruise control doesn't work (although everything else is fine). I took things apart, traced things, etc, and can't figure out what's going on. Is there a chance the ignition switch swap broke the cruise control somehow? (Any other theories?) tmc
  10. A daily driver. Then my vote is for a 997 C2S. Much more civilized, and a nicer "living space" (interior) as you noted. You will not have many chances to feel the performance differential in daily driving.
  11. Thanks Loren. The housing is in OK shape, but part #10 and (of course) #13 in your diagram are broken. thanks again, tmc
  12. Posting this for someone who might find this topic and have the same questions: You don't need the pins to be in tact. I found this out from Tool Pants' 9X6 Werks DVDs. However, if the pins break off, they produce a rattle that will drive you insane. The replacement is $101.55 from Sunset Auto. It was worth it for my sanity. tmc
  13. I broke the side mirror on the passenger side. I have a 1999 996 C2. Thanks in advance
  14. Thanks for your help! The first image is of the tab top (sorry it's blurry) sticking through the slot in the steering wheel. It slops around left to right in the slot: This is of the broken tabs themselves: Is there any other function to this ribon cable carrier besides transmitting signal to the steering wheel air bag and horn? Is it also a sensor? Thanks!! tmc
  15. Thanks, Loren! Is this really required to replace? There were enough of a tab left to fit in the notches of the wheel, but with a little "slop" as you turn it back and forth. It looks like that unit is just one long ribon cable wound up to guarnatee the air bag and horn are always connected to the rest of the car. All seems to work well (no airbag light, horn is fine, I don't notice anything strange when I drive it). Thanks again :renntech: tmc
  16. I swapped my steering wheel this weekend and, in spite of every DIY guide telling me to be careful about not breaking the plastic clips... I broke the plastic clips when taking off the old wheel. Is 996 652 211 00 the right part number for the replacement? I have a 99 996 C2 tmc
  17. Thanks for the reply Loren. I tried blue loctite, didn't seem to hold it. Is this a common problem with the B&M kit? If so, I'll buy the OEM SSK and ebay this mofo. tmc
  18. I installed a B&M short shifter in my 99 C2. I can't cinch the stop screw on the front bracket tight enough, it keeps on loosening. I've used the jam nut, but it doesn't stop it from loosening over the course of a day or so. Any suggestions? Is there something I'm doing wrong? Thanks! tmc
  19. Ok just tried it, and the short answer is YES the 997 and 996 "shift tower" are identical. Nice to have a short throw shifter in the 996....... :D
  20. I installed a short shifter in my 987S using the factory kit (which includes the shifter housing/frame). Now I got a B&M kit for my 996. I'm wondering if I can use the 997/987 "frame" on a 996. (If so, I can do the surgery to install the B&M in the spare frame, and thereby minimize the "down time" of my 996). Do the two kits (996 and 997) have the same part numbers? Tom
  21. I installed a short shifter in my 987S using the factory kit (which includes the shifter housing/frame). Now I got a B&M kit for my 996. I'm wondering if I can use the 997/987 "frame" on a 996. (If so, I can do the surgery to install the B&M in the spare frame, and thereby minimize the "down time" of my 996). Tom
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